Torsion Problem
#1
Torsion Problem
so I went out to level my truck finally, raised it up and did the left side and it was a breeze. I went around to do the right side and the damn torsen bolt is rounded off. It will accept the 13 mm socket but when I go to crank it,it just break free and spins on it. No wonder the truck wasnt leveled when I bought it, but any ideas on how to work this.
#3
but even if the vice grips work how can I turn the bolt. because it cant lay like level with the ground because it will hit on the square pieces around the torsen bars and if you connect it like facing sky to ground how would you turn it because you def cant crank torsen bars by hand i wouldnt think.
#7
#9
#11
yeah I think im going to try the file but thats going to def b a pain in the ***, and then if I cant get that to work then ill try to cut the bolt as suggested above. how would I take it out, like can you just take the bolt out and put a new bolt in or how does all that work. also even if the file worked and i got a wrench on it how would I still turn it. At first it would work but in order to level the truck out the torsion bolt actually goes up in the black square so a wrench would fit on it.
Last edited by ZWilson07; 04-24-2010 at 09:58 PM.
#14
#18
First off. Become good friends with the search button.
Second, This post should help you out. Read it.. T-bar Removal
Second, This post should help you out. Read it.. T-bar Removal
Personally, the way I'd fix the OP's truck is by doing what I posted above and hope you can get the 'keeper block'(#9 below) w/ the adjustment bolt(#8) still in it. If you can't, cut it as close to the block w/ the threads(the bolt head side), then snake it out. Of course, do it only after you get your new parts from Ford or a junkyard donor truck.
#19
thanks for the info and yea sorry about the search, i searched and searched but I kept spelling it wrong so that thread never showed up. I looked through it and it never said how to take the bolt out, it just says unscrew it. im just making sure that I only have to unscrew it and screw the new adjuster bolt back in or if I have to use a C clamp or whatever wehre exactly and how to place and do it. and also how would I go about taking off my stripped bolt, You cant fit anything up like a wrench and obviously a socket wont fit and unscrew/screw it.
#20
IMO....either weld on a nut to the stripped bolt head, leave it or unscrew it and replace the bolt. No need to unload the bars to replace the bolt that way.
Or....read my post above. Cut it off and get a new adjustment bolt and nut("keeper block", #9 in the diagram). This requires unloading the torsion bar and I covered that above.
Of course the other thread just says unscrew it....it isn't meant to cover stripped t-bar adj bolts.
Or....read my post above. Cut it off and get a new adjustment bolt and nut("keeper block", #9 in the diagram). This requires unloading the torsion bar and I covered that above.
Of course the other thread just says unscrew it....it isn't meant to cover stripped t-bar adj bolts.
#21
IMO....either weld on a nut to the stripped bolt head, leave it or unscrew it and replace the bolt. No need to unload the bars to replace the bolt that way.
Or....read my post above. Cut it off and get a new adjustment bolt and nut("keeper block", #9 in the diagram). This requires unloading the torsion bar and I covered that above.
Of course the other thread just says unscrew it....it isn't meant to cover stripped t-bar adj bolts.
Or....read my post above. Cut it off and get a new adjustment bolt and nut("keeper block", #9 in the diagram). This requires unloading the torsion bar and I covered that above.
Of course the other thread just says unscrew it....it isn't meant to cover stripped t-bar adj bolts.
oh ok yeah i was typing when you posted that so I didnt get to see it until I already posted and sent you a message. so let me get this straight just so im 100% clear. my goal is to take out my torsion bar adjuster bolt to replace it with one that isnt stripped. IF I can jack the truck up, use wd 40 or some heat and get that bolt out somehow like that then I can just take my new torsion bar adjuster bolt and just screw it in its place and be good to go thats it, correct? Secondly, IF I cant get the adjuster bolt out for w.e reason than I should go about it the way you suggested in your previous post with the diagram, in which case I would need a tool because I would have to unload the torsion bars to cut off the old adjustment bolt and nut and replace those with new ones. Do I got it right now.
#22
haha...it's all good. I didn't even notice the times. lol.
Mkay....
Get a new bolt anyhow. You can steal it off a 95-01 Explorer or a 98+ Ranger, or order new from Tasca like linked earlier in the thread.
Find SOMEWAY to get the current bolt out. Whether it be welding a nut, heating the nut, whatever.....get it out. Replace it with the new one. NO SPECIAL TOOLS are needed if just replacing the bolt.
If you do use heat, I suggest getting a new nut/keeper block whatever you wanna call it. And replacing that requires unloading the bar. All the unbolting crap I mentioned earlier, the safer, no special tool way.
If you can't remove it using heat or don't have access to someone with a welder, remove the 'skid plate' and cut the bolt as close as you can to the nut/keeper block. Use a hack saw, sawzall, or even a torch(but don't come close to the nut/keeper block w/ the torch). THEN, all the unbolting crap to get the nut/keepblock and the threaded stub out. Replace with new bolt and new nut(only you can't get the old threaded stub threaded out of it). This route in my opinion is about the best option as it requires no real special tools other than a saw of some kind.
IMO...easiest solution to your problem is getting a nut welded onto the stripped head. You can just leave it like that if you wish. Or fix it down the road. It's up to you. And whatever route you do choose to take, feel free to post up a thread if you need help...just remember to get all your parts you may need before hand. Don't wanna be stuck with a suspensionless truck! lol.
Mkay....
Get a new bolt anyhow. You can steal it off a 95-01 Explorer or a 98+ Ranger, or order new from Tasca like linked earlier in the thread.
Find SOMEWAY to get the current bolt out. Whether it be welding a nut, heating the nut, whatever.....get it out. Replace it with the new one. NO SPECIAL TOOLS are needed if just replacing the bolt.
If you do use heat, I suggest getting a new nut/keeper block whatever you wanna call it. And replacing that requires unloading the bar. All the unbolting crap I mentioned earlier, the safer, no special tool way.
If you can't remove it using heat or don't have access to someone with a welder, remove the 'skid plate' and cut the bolt as close as you can to the nut/keeper block. Use a hack saw, sawzall, or even a torch(but don't come close to the nut/keeper block w/ the torch). THEN, all the unbolting crap to get the nut/keepblock and the threaded stub out. Replace with new bolt and new nut(only you can't get the old threaded stub threaded out of it). This route in my opinion is about the best option as it requires no real special tools other than a saw of some kind.
IMO...easiest solution to your problem is getting a nut welded onto the stripped head. You can just leave it like that if you wish. Or fix it down the road. It's up to you. And whatever route you do choose to take, feel free to post up a thread if you need help...just remember to get all your parts you may need before hand. Don't wanna be stuck with a suspensionless truck! lol.
#23
thanks man i appreciate the help, im glad someone is on at these times. I work nights so im always on when no1 else is. I like this site alil better than FRF just because more people seem to post and reply on here. Everytime I post something on FRF I never get a repsonse or any useful responses but on here it seems like I do, I wonder why because I know most of the people are members too both. Also one last question, I did my ujoints this weekend and greased my ujoint boot and hopefully I did my ujonts right all seems well so far. But I broke 1 of the clamps on the boot like most do. I did get it back on the driveshaft and it seems to be staying in place which is good until I can get a replacement, but what should I use to replace that. Ive read most either use zip tie or screw type clamp but most dont want to use the clamp for fear of slightly throwing the driveshaft off, so should I just use a zip tie and get it as tight as I can.
#24
See! I'm glad you're on a site where people ACTUALLY KNOW THINGS!!! You're welcome man....I had my fair share of asking for help when I got started, no I'm just returning the favor.
The U-joint issue....what boot...?? Are you the one that had the slap-bump/rear end clunk issue? Hose clamp is just fine IMO. My truck bounces pretty darn good as it is...I wouldn't notice it! lol. The clamps on that driveshaft slip are used in plumbing.....so you should be able to find something just like stock at Home Depot. Buy the special tool, use it to crimp the bandclamp, then return it. Just take your old broke clamp to Ace or Home Depot with you and match it up. You really need to get on that...you don't want gunk getting in that slip joint.
The U-joint issue....what boot...?? Are you the one that had the slap-bump/rear end clunk issue? Hose clamp is just fine IMO. My truck bounces pretty darn good as it is...I wouldn't notice it! lol. The clamps on that driveshaft slip are used in plumbing.....so you should be able to find something just like stock at Home Depot. Buy the special tool, use it to crimp the bandclamp, then return it. Just take your old broke clamp to Ace or Home Depot with you and match it up. You really need to get on that...you don't want gunk getting in that slip joint.
#25
See! I'm glad you're on a site where people ACTUALLY KNOW THINGS!!! You're welcome man....I had my fair share of asking for help when I got started, no I'm just returning the favor.
The U-joint issue....what boot...?? Are you the one that had the slap-bump/rear end clunk issue? Hose clamp is just fine IMO. My truck bounces pretty darn good as it is...I wouldn't notice it! lol. The clamps on that driveshaft slip are used in plumbing.....so you should be able to find something just like stock at Home Depot. Buy the special tool, use it to crimp the bandclamp, then return it. Just take your old broke clamp to Ace or Home Depot with you and match it up. You really need to get on that...you don't want gunk getting in that slip joint.
The U-joint issue....what boot...?? Are you the one that had the slap-bump/rear end clunk issue? Hose clamp is just fine IMO. My truck bounces pretty darn good as it is...I wouldn't notice it! lol. The clamps on that driveshaft slip are used in plumbing.....so you should be able to find something just like stock at Home Depot. Buy the special tool, use it to crimp the bandclamp, then return it. Just take your old broke clamp to Ace or Home Depot with you and match it up. You really need to get on that...you don't want gunk getting in that slip joint.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
01RangerEdge
OLD - Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
7
01-10-2013 05:01 AM
RangerNVS
OLD - Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
26
01-22-2010 10:28 AM