Traction bars
#26
04-02-2009
And they are no longer on his truck. He bend the **** out of one of them, and took both of them off.
#28
04-02-2009
Yeah the telescoping idea looks a little cheesy to me. It also looks really noisy with the play between the tubes. It would seem like they would be easy to break where the smaller tube hits the inside of the bigger tube, too much play. Any less play and any rust build up would either make it bind more or make more noise.
Also the rubber bushings don't seem ideal, and the mounts don't extend far from the axle...
I don't know, it's a cool idea but it doesn't seem very practical to me.
I think the heim joints with a shackle in the front would work better still.
But I haven't personally driven with either, myself.
Also the rubber bushings don't seem ideal, and the mounts don't extend far from the axle...
I don't know, it's a cool idea but it doesn't seem very practical to me.
I think the heim joints with a shackle in the front would work better still.
But I haven't personally driven with either, myself.
#29
04-02-2009
Warrior also makes traction bars similar to Duff, called torque bars. They are telescoping also, don't know anyone who has tried them.
http://www.warriorproducts.com/catal...orqueBarz.html
http://www.warriorproducts.com/catal...orqueBarz.html
#30
04-02-2009
I've posted this in your SAS thread as well but since you made another thread asking the same question. Here ya go.
EDIT: Also, the pins that lock movement in your plunging design would NOT be good. As the springs compress the shackles pivots rearward and the axle has to move back. With pins preventing your anti-wrap bar from extending it could cause breakage (welds) and unpredictable/unsafe handling
Just a characteristic of leaf springs in general.
Build an anti-wrap bar to help prevent the axle wrap.
Connect it at 2 points on the axle (vertically) and at the frame side connect it with a shackle the goes from the front of the anti-wrap bar DOWN to a mount on a crossmember. If the shackle goes up from the bar to the mount it will do the opposite and hurt your geometry.
Read this http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=anti+wrap+bar
Build an anti-wrap bar to help prevent the axle wrap.
Connect it at 2 points on the axle (vertically) and at the frame side connect it with a shackle the goes from the front of the anti-wrap bar DOWN to a mount on a crossmember. If the shackle goes up from the bar to the mount it will do the opposite and hurt your geometry.
Read this http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=anti+wrap+bar
The anti-wrap bar should go to the forward mounting point of the leafs and have a shackle going down to a mount and the shackle should generally be close to the length of the shackles on the leafs.
I think a plunging anti-wrap bar would be overly complicated and would have a higher potential of failure (slop causing it to do this /\ and possibly seize)
I think a plunging anti-wrap bar would be overly complicated and would have a higher potential of failure (slop causing it to do this /\ and possibly seize)
#31
04-03-2009
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#33
04-07-2009
#34
05-06-2009
What do you guys think?[/QUOTE]
i see 3 major things wrong
1) his welding sucks
2) the shackle has to go up, not down
and 3) he just lost a TON of ground clearance doing that.
not to mention you can put it right next to the pumpkin and not need 2.
i see 3 major things wrong
1) his welding sucks
2) the shackle has to go up, not down
and 3) he just lost a TON of ground clearance doing that.
not to mention you can put it right next to the pumpkin and not need 2.
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n3elz
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