that's what i was thinking...

 

If you go steel wheels it's not that much of a difference actually...

 

8 w/ 3.25 and 10 w/ 4.....the 8 will be sucked in 1.25 compared to the 10. That's also if I did the math crap in my head. No paper to graph it out like i normally would do. lol!




Alot of your backspace options will be limited to what the manufacturer specs the wheels out to.....so it's best to just scour manufacturer websites and take a peek at the specs, whatever wheel it is you're after. ProComp Xtreme Steel wheels have TONS of crazy options.....MANYMANYMANY backspaces available. Like 7 different backspaces are available on 8" rims.

 

ok, i should have asked in my first post then, (i was thinking of it backwards) what is the biggest offset i can run on my truck? like if i ran 8" the rims wouldn't go on, with or without tires... what is the point where it just won't work?

 

On our trucks I think we need at least 3.75", or the caliper will rub. I have 15" rims in my basement with 3.25"BS and they rub.

 

Suggested is still 3.25-4 BACKSPACE. I feel 3.5-4 is more precise. Don't bring offset into it...that's a different measurement telling you the same thing. Marie's '08 and Steve's '08 and Jesse's '08 are all running 15x8 w/ steelies that meet those specs. Steelies usually don't have a brake caliper issue. Alums sometimes do. It depends on wheel to wheel. There are tons of members with 15x8 alums on their 03+ big brake trucks that don't have any issues. Best bet is to hit up members with 03+ trucks on 15x8 alums and asking them how well they fit and/or the backspace.

FWIW.....3.25 bs wheels are pretty hard to find. Most are 3.625 in a 15x8.

 

I've ran a 10" wide rim with 5" backspacing, 0 offset. and the tire did rub the swaybar at full lock, but just a little. I now have 12" wide rims with 3.75 backspacing no rubage and they sit just outside the fenders.

 

Your tires are sticking out 2.25" MORE than mine. Yours ARE NOT "just outside the fenders".

 

haha ok.. so they sit out kinda alot. from the back you might think i was running full width.

 

Support your fellow member!


https://www.ranger-forums.com/f54/mb...l-ship-105192/


Also check out BC4x4.com, there is always jeep wheels and ranger wheels for cheap there

 

15x10 3.75 bs

 

GOOD POST!!!!! i am just waiting to see a shipping price... i might just pick those up, they look sick!

just to double check, they are 4" they won't hit anything, will they? or SHOULDN'T hit anything? some of the posts you guys are saying seem backwards from what i thought it would be... but it seems the general census is that 8 w 4 is fine... worst case senario, i go buy .25 or .5" spacers

 

If you're still wondering how they'll look... since I have basically the same truck as you, here's a few pics for comparison. Hope it helps!

15X8 wheels, 3.75"BS (31X10.50's)





15X10 wheels, 4"BS (33x12.50's)

 

sweet thanks man, those look sick, but they stick out a little farther than i want for mine... i think the 15x8 with 4" bs should be about right, based off your second set of pics...

anyone know how much a set (or each) rim would weigh?

 

It varies wheel to wheel....

You can find that out on the manufacturer's website....

 

any idea who makes mb razor rims? i tried googling it, but only benzes come up...

 

Wow

MB wheels

 

all i have to sat is powed

 

just to run off of this point, you say the 8's hold the bead BETTER, which is relitive (of course) is that to imply that the 10's will give me problems, if i'm running like 12-15psi?

(i realize you say that single digit pressures still hold with a 10, just curious as to how well)

 

that's it, i give up, i'm going to go buy rims right now...

 

Think about it.....the bead seats on both sides of the rim. Tires naturally curve inward towards the bead. Using the same width tire, if the beads are sucked in, it'll keep the beads set better than if it were on a wide wheel. IDK...it's hard to explain since I'm not that up to technicalities.... and I have a hard time explaining things.

Lets do some extremes....

15x7" rim vs. 15x12" rim...both running the same 10.50 tire. Since the sidewall naturally curves in, it wants a smaller width rim than the tread. If you use the 7" rim and 10.50 tire, the bead seats right about where the sidewall naturally lands, and almost sorta 'pulls' the beads closer together and and forces them to stay put on the wheel.....if you air down + beads wanting to naturally grip to the wheel, you won't lose a bead. If you use the 12" rim with a 10.50 tire, the sidewalls are pushed outward.....if aired down + sidewalls natrually sucking inward, you'll pop a bead.

How was that? Now...I know the example was extremes, but extremes seem to be the best way to describe things. 10" vs 8" w/ same tire, 8" will want to keep the tire better than the 10" because of that natural sidewall curve inward. BUT...I've been known to air to 8 on 10's beating the truck pretty good sidehilling....and have no issues as of yet with popping a bead. I used to be a big 10" w/ 12.50 tire hater. That was until I had myself a borrowed toyota on 12.50's and 10s aired to 7.

 

absolutely extremes are the best way to explain something and that makes perfect sense... i should rephrase my question... while the 10" rims are a higher risk to lose a bead, is it significant threat to actually worry about? i went looking at the km2's specs, it looks like BFG says they are designed for a 10" (33x12.5)

 

For the kind of "wheeling" you've posted, no offense of course, you wouldn't be airing down so low that you'd have to worry about losing a bead.


There's no pics of the stuff I used to do. lol. I'm always the only one with the camera. lol.

 

none taken, the wheeling i have done is just because it's close, easy, and my truck is stock, so no point in driving forever to get stuck... plus it was damn near winter when i got my truck last year, this summer i will have more videos and pics of much more impressive stuff...