Do not order new wheels until you are 100% sure what you are doing to the truck for lift.
On a leveled F150, some 35s fit with stock wheels. The KM2s work because they do not have aggressive side lugs. There is about 1/4" clearance from the upper balljoint, and the tire may contact the upper control arm occasionally (barely) at full lock. Just enough to make a tiny little clean spot on the control arm. When the tires are turned, there is about 1/4" clearance between the tire and the back edge of the fender. It is a super tight fit. If any aftermarket wheels would work with 35s and a leveling kit, it would probably be those ultras due to their backspacing. I believe they are 5.75" BS and 8.5" wide iirc (I almost bought some). That means the inside of the wheel is moved in 1/4" and the outside of the wheel is moved out 3/4". In other words the center of the tire would shift OUT 1/4". That might work, or the tire could have a wider profile and rub the upper balljoint.
A wheel with less backspacing (most are 9" wide with 4.5" BS) would push the wheel out quite a bit, the outside edge of the wheel would be moved out 2.5" over the stock one. This increases the 'scrub radius' when you turn the wheel left and right, and the tire moves back and forth more in the fenders. You would have to cut quite a bit into the fender I believe with a leveling kit.
On the other end of things, different lift kits require different backspacing to clear the taller knuckles. Most kits suggest 4.5" backspacing. The only one that allows stock backspacing that I know of, is the Rancho kit.
The main reason I haven't purchased new wheels is because I haven't decided which lift I'm going with. And I think I'm going to switch to 17s when I do.
2006 F150 FX4 Super Crew - Bilstien 5100s leveled 2", 35" KM2s, 4.56 gears, Detroit locker, Eaton E-Locker, Traction Bars, AEM intake, Xcal 2
2010 VW Golf TDI 6MT