275/60/15's on a 15 inch rim
#3
Most tire manufacturers recommend bigger than a 7" rim for these, but not by much from what I can find. 7.5" minimum is typical.
The problem is, and I'm encountering it, is that at or below the minimum width your tires bend a bit in the tread causing the center to wear out more quickly. You may face this if you put those tires on stock rims.
I don't believe it's a safety problem or anything -- just an issue with how they may wear.
Although they are only 10.8" wide, they have a shorter sidewall. This results in less sidewall to "absorb" the bending in towards the rim and putting that force on the tread.
Just FYI. As Therhinosranger said: you're probably okay -- just the wear issue to consider.
I'm upgrading from 7" to 8" wheels to stop the progression of the center wear on mine.
The problem is, and I'm encountering it, is that at or below the minimum width your tires bend a bit in the tread causing the center to wear out more quickly. You may face this if you put those tires on stock rims.
I don't believe it's a safety problem or anything -- just an issue with how they may wear.
Although they are only 10.8" wide, they have a shorter sidewall. This results in less sidewall to "absorb" the bending in towards the rim and putting that force on the tread.
Just FYI. As Therhinosranger said: you're probably okay -- just the wear issue to consider.
I'm upgrading from 7" to 8" wheels to stop the progression of the center wear on mine.
#4
#6
Originally Posted by 2004edge
yes but im taking the 2 inch lift blocks out and approx 2 inches out by uncranking the bars so it should fill up the wheel wells more than stock correct
#8
Originally Posted by 2004edge
so what size tire would you suggest then?? 255-70-15's and i was just talking about enough torsion bar untwisting to regain a lil rake to the look
255/70R15 would be alot closer to stock tire diameter, and honestly you have absolutely NO need for a 275 tire.. I run a 265 but primarily because its a 31.7" tire on a 17" wheel. 255 strikes me as an optimum tread width for street use.
#11
It's worse than just soft springs even. When you drop it that way you have almost no up-travel -- not a big problem. But you have WAY too much down travel. In hard driving handling situations, the wheels can drop so far that the bar unloads and shifts position.
Also, when the wheel starts back up, the lack of spring tension allows it to move too fast, even with the shock (springs provide part of the upward damping).
Overall, a very lopsided situation. Just thought I'd explain some of the problem in more detail.
Also, when the wheel starts back up, the lack of spring tension allows it to move too fast, even with the shock (springs provide part of the upward damping).
Overall, a very lopsided situation. Just thought I'd explain some of the problem in more detail.
#12
Originally Posted by n3elz
It's worse than just soft springs even. When you drop it that way you have almost no up-travel -- not a big problem. But you have WAY too much down travel. In hard driving handling situations, the wheels can drop so far that the bar unloads and shifts position.
Also, when the wheel starts back up, the lack of spring tension allows it to move too fast, even with the shock (springs provide part of the upward damping).
Overall, a very lopsided situation. Just thought I'd explain some of the problem in more detail.
Also, when the wheel starts back up, the lack of spring tension allows it to move too fast, even with the shock (springs provide part of the upward damping).
Overall, a very lopsided situation. Just thought I'd explain some of the problem in more detail.
Really its more like removing the springs altogether.
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09-21-2009 05:44 PM