Right now I am just about to give up and just buy a 3" kit and just do that... have you ever heard of anyone putting 3" spacers in the front and 2" ones in the back and use shackles to lift it to math the front? I just don't like how I've seen so many 3" lifts that are perfect then a few that look really awkward... and of course my luck my truck will look awkward! I also don't want lift the back to much because I do not want to have to cut out and re weld the hitch in to get rid of the awkward gap... and it is a stock hitch so it will hang down a little more

 

There are 6 block locations on each side front to rear. If you want to do a tapered lift as you are describing, you would need spacers that get progressively taller toward the front. Using six 2" in the rear and six 3" in the front would mean that the body line of the cab and box do not match (off by 1").

 

Dude why the hell did you have to buy a two inch BL.... Could have saved yourself so much trouble by just buying a kit.

 

i know i know, i was just trying to do something different, out of the ordinary,but being a kid with no resources sucks... so im saving those 2" spacers for another project and just purchased the 3" lift from summit. urg

 

Good call on the 3" kit. Also, yes you can use different sized blocks. It would look retarded. The suspension lift would not affect the alignment of the body sections.

 

Bob has a tapered body lift

 

and it doesn't look terrible? But the body lines.....

 

Bob will hopefully post a pic, he should have some on his car domain page

 

The tapered lift is very subtle - 1.3" at the radiator core support, zero at the back of the bed. The blocks are 3" diameter aluminum stock, cut to custom heights. By ratioing the steps in height of the blocks to the distance between them, the body lines remain straight.

 

oh ok. I was thinking just using different sized blocks for the cab and bed. Tapering the size as you go makes sense though. What is the advantage to this vs just using the same sized block?

 

I wanted the front of the body a little higher for a variety of reasons, mostly related to the radiator and transmission. By using a tapered lift with zero at the rear, there is no issue with gaps at the rear bumper or hitch and the rear wheelhouse gap increased so little that it is hardly noticeable and gap guards are not needed.

I did relocate the front bumper/towhook crossmember 1.5" higher on the frame so everything lines up as before - body, bumper, towhooks, valance.

 

I see. Makes sense, Easy way to get the truck level. Never realized anyone had done it.

Random question, what do you do for a job bob? Work for ford?

 

Job?? Tried it a couple of times but it just wasn't for me.

 

and i thought putting my body lift on took a long time lol sucks that your doing it in the winter too. i hope for your sake you have a garage or a good set of gloves or your hands will be freezing out there. keep us posted on your progress and when the new blocks come in

 

hahah indeed i have some toasty gloves but no garage unfortunately :( just a big driveway... the new kit should be coming in Wednesday according to the shipping info and my back ordered wheels shipped out Friday and will be here Wednesday as well!!!

 

"real lift" came in today hahah Check out my build thread to see what else came in!!! ( https://www.ranger-forums.com/projec...-build-135557/ ) hopefully ill have some more resources at some point and be able to do a 2" lift on some vehicle in the near future!