Ford Ranger Body Lift 3” – Tech Info Extravaganza - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


1" & 3" Body Lifts General discussion of body lifts for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 04-08-2009
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Ford Ranger Body Lift 3” – Tech Info Extravaganza

DISCLAIMER: Ranger-Forums.com, this site, Redneckstone and it's administration are not liable for anything that may occur as a result of someone who reads or follows any steps in this How-To. Proceed at your own peril. The reader assumes all responsibility for consequences that may occur by performing this modification.


Thank you legal Dept..




Ok Welcome to Body Lift 3” 101…



We are going to Discuss 98+ trucks at the moment. Sorry 97(down) I’ll get to you later…

RULE #1 – Read INSTRUCTIONS… PA (performance accessories) has great instructions but they do lack some info which will be discussed here…

98-00 Instructions Click me!

01-08 Instructions Click me!


STOP

If you didn’t Read any of those links I just posted.. DO IT NOW… please and thanks..

_________________


Ok onward


You want to Purchase a body lift, good job you have a few choices.. (Summits Pictures are not kit specific!!!)

STOP

Read --> here is PA kits and Summit Kit. The Summit Kit is listed as 98-00 it will work on all 98+ trucks. Also a 98-00 Kit will work on 01-08 trucks only thing missing is parking brake extension which isn’t needed..




98-00 Performance Accessories 3” kit Click me!


01-08 Performance Accessories 3” kit Click me!


98-08 SummitRacing 3” kit Click me!


Shifter EXTENTION MANUAL TRANS Click me!


^^^^^ Needed with ANY manual trans truck!!!!!!!!!!!!

****Manual T-case guys sorry your SOL on extension needs to be custom****



_________________



Ok Time to talk TIPS and how to aid in doing a body lift so you don’t kill yourself.

Rule #2 BUY PROPER TOOLS… or good friend with some.. lol….


_________________


Ok in no specific order.



- With the main Body mounts you MUST HEAT THE BOLTS. A “MAP” gas torch you can buy will work just fine. HEAT threw the round hole in the bottom of the bushing. Heat it till you smell burning rubber and its GOOD AND HOT. Then IMPACT out with an impact gun. (hole in bushing shown here below), Reason for heating is the bolts have Loctite on them from the factory. Otherwise the bushing will spin and that causes all kind of problems


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- Ok on the LOWER radiator Drop bracket, part of the Rad support protrudes and is in the way of the bracket. Best thing to do is bend the bracket in a little to help with installing the bracket and keeping it straight. (picture below)



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- Next (not all have) trucks equipped with Evap Line(located by steering shaft), after body lift install make sure line is still attached. Some people lengthen the line. My easy cheap way is just to detach it from both holders on the frame and run it on the TOP SIDE of the Brake line shield, slightly re-bending it up. (picture shown below)

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- If you are having problems with the Front body mount coming loose, take off the nut first (#1 in photo below), Then try and impact out the bolt (#5 in photo below), if the bushing washer on top is spinning and bolt is not coming out, (#3 shown in photo below, also in photo 2 just below body lift puck), have a friend sit on top of the Rad support right over the bushing to apply more pressure to it. Normally is enough to allow bushing to stop spinning. This is the bushing that has to be drilled out with Bit.


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- Engine bay Ground extension, 98% of the time you get a socket on that upper nut and the whole stud spins. Use a drive impact to remove nut. There will be a nut behind it, tighten that nut. Then install new bracket, problem solved.

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- When Raising the Body, have someone in the engine bay keeping an eye on all lines to make sure nothing is too tight.



- If you have a SOHC 4.0L 2001+ truck after body is lifted FIX THE A/C HOSE that’s infront by the pullies or it WILL GET sliced by the belt and you are out a $100+ line.



- After body is lifted IF AUTOMATIC make sure gear selector cable isn’t to tight. Remove from clip on body behind steering extension if needed




- Before installing FRONT BUMPER BRACKETS helpful tip Paint front side of the bracket with Black paint being it will be visible from the front and looks like crap.




- Rear bumper brackets. Most the time they do not fit right little tip before installing on the bumper use large hammer or large adjustable wrench and flare them out more.




- Northern trucks applying Heat to the J-clips in frame for Bed bolts will help with taking them out and not breaking them. WARNING becareful of the one by the gas tank, usually you can not safely get a torch in there.




- After 1 week or 500 miles go back and retighten EVERY BODY BOLT and BED BOLT. Will guarantee they will loosen up some, if your having trouble with body bushing spinning reheat to tighten.




- If 4 wheel ABS move front ABS wire on back side of bushing after install keeps it out of the way. (picture below)

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- Remember to loosen the Radiator before lifting the body take it out of the lower mounts so its free.




- REMOVE battery cables from battery BEFORE LIFTING the body. Both cables might need to be loosen at hold down clips to give them more slack.




- Put some Anti seize on the steering extension both sides because its alum going into a steel part incase you ever have to remove it again.




- CHECK FILLER/VENT Extensions BEFORE doing lift. There is a few different size’s there is usually never the right size in the box, you might have to go out and get the right size pipe to extend either one before starting!!!!!




- Shane took some nice pics that are labeled if you would like to look… Click me!




- If stock Exhaust and can not afford to replace it right away. Take Sawall to the tail pipe right AFTER the last hanger after the axle. It will hide it enough so it doesn’t bother you will you get it replaced




- Need T55 socket for bed bolts, buy a few they like to break…




- No need to buy PA Gap Guards you can make your own like so….



Quote:
Go to homedepot and get some stair runner material gonna cost you like $20 max..

the stuff i got was to wide so i sliced it inhalf and put it on.. using self tapping sheet screws into the pinch weld seam.. just dont put a screw in a spot weld..

use the BACK SIDE of the rubber the not ribbed side...












this is what the side you wanna hide looks like







you dont need anything on the front the stockers take care of it...








here my truck from the side they work great












- No need to Weld in Crush blocks some Black RTV placed on the Crush block place it between the bed and frame and tighten down it will Crush it in place.




- Make sure you have enough Nuts and Bolts. Had a few times, its missing 2 Nylon Nuts for the Front bumper brackets, and have to run out and get them before we can install the front bumper.




- Remove Manual Shifter BEFORE lifting cab leave off till cab is lifted.




- Justin's Manual Cup Holder advice :
Quote:
If you have a stock shifter, when you put the extension on it, if you turn the plate to read "explorer front" it moves the cup holders back a little and makes it easier to use 2nd and reverse


- How-to for modified front tow hooks. https://www.ranger-forums.com/f59/ho...y-lift-101681/





- Hurst Shifter with a 3" Body Lift





Quote:
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01 View Post
If you have a Hurst Shifter, or plan on installing one, this post will help you.

YES a Hurst shifter with a body lift works perfectly. NO you do not need PA #3700 for the Hurst because it's a completely different shifter. Once body lifted and a Hurst Shifter, the ball is pretty low to the ground, and a long reach to reach the ball.

You can make an extension if you wish....and that extension you can make PERFECT for your comfort and make it perfect for you.

Here's what a 3" body lift and Hurst look like(notice the shortness)...





Here's a couple of brackets I've made for mine made out of 1/4" flat bar....Dark colored one is 1" up, 1 1/8" back. Light colored one is 2.5" up, 1 1/8" back. Both brackets I had mounted to the Hurst base in a fashion that it moves the arm toward the driver 1/4". 1" up, 1 1/8" back worked well for a BL'd truck. I initially did it when I had a 1" BL in my truck. Then I put the 3" BL on and it worked well....it sucked if you've got a shorty console, but if you've got a 60/40, I think it might work quite nicely.






Fx4wannabe01's truck with 1" up, 1 1/8" back, 1/4" driverside(center console not bolted down. 3" bl with this particular bracket DOES NOT allow use of the cupholders when center console is bolted to factory location)...








Fx4wannabe01's truck with 2.5" up, 1 1/8" back, 1/4" driverside...





TrePaul86's truck with the same measurements on the extention...




(Redneckstone Edit)



There is also a Longer shifter arm if people want the shifter closer to them its not cheap tho....

standard Hurst 538-4106 arm
longer 538-8022 arm














____________________


Anyone else has anything to add please post in Thread and I will add to main Post.


Everyone please be safe and don’t hurt yourselves use jack stands when needed. And keep out of harms way. Have fun enjoy and be lifted!!
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Last edited by Redneckstone; 02-08-2010 at 11:26 PM.
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Old 04-08-2009
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Great post Stone!
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figured it was needed
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AWESOME post stone!! I went to sticky it, was already done. lol.
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Old 04-08-2009
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Bravo, this is going to help me loads when I do mine.
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Old 04-08-2009
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would like to add a note on the crush blocks. if you haul heavy loads in your bed you need them are the middle of your bed will sag down..
oh and on the radiaor drop brackets i never had any clerance problems on mine.
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nice write up stone
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Old 04-08-2009
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Very good info. I could have used some of it when i did mine on sunday
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Hurst Shifter and a 3" Bodylift

Hurst Shifter with a 3" Bodylift


Added to first post in thread. Thanks Stone.

Last edited by Fx4wannabe01; 04-08-2009 at 07:19 PM.
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Old 04-08-2009
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good post shane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redrocket View Post
would like to add a note on the crush blocks. if you haul heavy loads in your bed you need them are the middle of your bed will sag down..
oh and on the radiaor drop brackets i never had any clerance problems on mine.
its not so much a clearness problem it will bolt up but its just easier if you indent it some.
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My BL i didn't need to 'hourglass' the lower drops. But on Marie's, I did have to 'hourglass' them. I think Stone or Justin told me mine was the first they saw that was not hourglassed. ? IDR.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01 View Post
My BL i didn't need to 'hourglass' the lower drops. But on Marie's, I did have to 'hourglass' them. I think Stone or Justin told me mine was the first they saw that was not hourglassed. ? IDR.
No i have installed them before with out doing it. one day i was doing i think grants.. i dont remember i was like hey i have an idea...and thus been doing it since
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Old 04-08-2009
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great post! we needed this lol

lets just hope people will take the time to look in here before posting their own thread
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone View Post
its not so much a clearness problem it will bolt up but its just easier if you indent it some.
oh ok i see now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tys 4x4 View Post
great post! we needed this lol

lets just hope people will take the time to look in here before posting their own thread
if not they will get linked
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nice info, thanks stone
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Great write up.

What's this a/c hose your talking about?!? lol
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oh man this helps thank you! stone for the win!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seed60 View Post
Great write up.

What's this a/c hose your talking about?!? lol
A/C hose. Runs from from down but the bottom of your raditor and up to you ac. But on the way it is by the belt. If you dont move it you will put a hole in your ac hose.
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oh man this helps thank you! stone for the win!
did you read the damn instructions finally
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GREAT right up man, This will help a ton when I do mine sat.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone View Post
No i have installed them before with out doing it. one day i was doing i think grants.. i dont remember i was like hey i have an idea...and thus been doing it since
I did it on Bills, mine and Ervs.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
I did it on Bills, mine and Ervs.
Sounds good to me! lol i knew i didnt invent the idea. lol.. i did a few others and forgot about it, honestly i cant even tell you in what order i did the lifts anymore its all a blur
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