The sizes should be the same, you'll just need 4 more for the bed-I'm not sure on the '10 if just the front bolts are shorter, so you might want to get a couple of extras just to be safe.
Drilling-out the core support bushings is 1) like a 5 minute job, 2) you'll likely destroy the threads when you're walking the OE bolts out, and 3) because of the way that the truck is built on an assembly line, those bushings are apperently threaded onto the core support bolts long before the cab ever meets-up with the chassis, at which point the nuts are installed (or vice-versa-it's been over a year since I did mine). Long story-drill them out.
Just trim the shroud with a Dremel-go a little ats a time, checking for clearance as you go.
MikeR

 

orrr with the core support bolts i just reused what was there. there was enough thread with the block in there.

 

hey you seem to be the most experienced i was wondering pertymuch your saying i can just undo the bolts lift the body slide the pucks in and no wires need to be unpluged the streering wheel can stay on things like that? i thank you ahead of time because im planing on doing this this week end please get back to me on this bud

 

nothing should bind with a 1"

 

You will have to trim the bottom of the fan shroud for sure

 

I didn't have trim my fan shroud.

 

I didnt have to trim mine either.

 

Really? I probably would have been alright without trimming, but it was too close for comfort for me; I had the Dremel with me anyways.

 

Just wanted to update... I have had the 1" BL for at least 100,000 miles. I have well over 30,000 miles on dirt. From burning down graded roads at 80 to crawling on jeep trails where most people with a jeep would of turned around long ago. Never had a problem from it.

 

Anyone have a line on some 1"x3" lift blocks these days? PA will no longer sell them separate from a kit (liability).

Having trouble finding them on eBay or anywhere else also.

 

Ok here are my options so far, do they have to be 3" Diameter? I don't see why 2" wouldn't work. Leaning toward aluminum.

Body Lift Pucks

One Inch 1-inch Body Lift Aluminum Pucks from ORD Fullsize 4x4 Parts (2.5" OD)

Can someone please verify 12 body mounts for a 2006 ranger sport 4x4 4.0L?

 

3" is the size of the existing body mounts. Thats why you use 3"

Yes you need 12 blocks

 

1" x 2.5" Aluminum blocks and a t-bar crank with 285/75R16 Duratracs on Pro Comp Wheels. All is well.

 

Some shiny diamond plate aluminum now hides the gap left by the 1" lift

 

Does anybody have a current source for 1"x3" blocks? All of the links I found in the thread and google searches so far have come up dry. Thanks!

 

The aluminum 1x2.5" blocks were all I could find, and I have had no issues.

PA would no longer sell blocks separate, only kits they told me.

 

Ouch. For that price I may look for a set of 2“ blocks and cut them in half.

 

Ordered 6 2"blocks from Zone's eBay store for $3.95 each. I'll post a follow up on how the cutting process goes.

 

How did this workout? I am having troubles finding 1" blocks as well and am thinking about going the same route. Did you use a chop saw... or what was the method to your madness?

 

Sent you a PM, but reposting here so others can see it...

I did get them cut, but the process could still use some refining.

Things that didn't work:
Band saw (unless you have one that can be slowed down dramatically compared to the cheap Black and Decker I was using)
Circular saw

Untested:
Miter saw

Works fairly well:
Hack saw (but it's slow)
Hand saw (take a few seconds afterward to smooth the roughness)
Reciprocating saw (definitely the best way if you can create a good jig)

The biggest problem I ran into was the plastic melting. As it cools it tends to re-form on the back side of the cut, trapping the blade. This wasn't a major problem with the last three options above.

The most important thing that would simplify the process is a good jig to make your cuts clean. I tried using a pair of hose clamps and it helped but definitely wasn't a perfect solution. A bench vise is helpful for the first half of the cut but the clamping pressure causes the blade to bind as you get past the halfway point of the spacer.

If I were to do it again I'd continue looking for a better way to cut them, but I eventually had a set of 12 spacers that were definitely close enough to be functional.

 

How high can you go before needing to extend the steering shaft? 1 1/2", 2"?

 

Just an update for anyone looking for blocks, I found my 1 inch ones on https://www.mikellisbodylifts.com/ a week ago for $36.