Ranger 1" Body Lift Supplies? - Page 3 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


1" & 3" Body Lifts General discussion of body lifts for the Ford Ranger.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #51  
Old 12-13-2006
casfz1's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: southgate, mi
Posts: 1,989
yes 1/2" is the hole size and I would make sure they are at least 1 1/2 dia.
Reply With Quote
  #52  
Old 12-13-2006
stockranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: garden grove , ca
Posts: 410
ok , but it says that the bed needs larger ones then the body so i shouldn't get them all the same size should i ? sorry to be a pain in the butt !
Reply With Quote
  #53  
Old 12-13-2006
casfz1's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: southgate, mi
Posts: 1,989
use standard 1/2 washers for everything but the bed.
Reply With Quote
  #54  
Old 01-20-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ocoee, FL
Posts: 1
Has anyone done this with a 2wd manual? Will I need to get some kind of shifter extension for this 1" BL? Here's what the truck looks like now...

Name:  DSCN2455.jpg
Views: 84
Size:  68.6 KB

I'm looking to get just a little higher. Just to verify... I don't need ground extensions, gas filler extensions, ebrake extensions, any adjustments with the radiator, etc...? Do you recomend Grade 8 bolts? Thanks for all the help.

Mike
Reply With Quote
  #55  
Old 01-28-2007
stockranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: garden grove , ca
Posts: 410
I started the BL last night . I got the cab completed. The bolts listed previously in this post do not exactly work unless they are fully threaded hex bolts!If its fully threaded it would of been the perfect length but if its a regular hexbolt the 4 cab bolts need to be shorter. I had to re-use some of the stock bolts in new spots but i got it done. one bolt was frozen it took a 3 foot breaker bar and three guys hours to get it out.

I'm going to attempt the bed today but since its sunday the I might be totaly screwed if the bed bolts are too long . I'll try and get the measurments on all 12 bolts and get the pics up this week.
Reply With Quote
  #56  
Old 01-28-2007
gumby's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: indy
Posts: 1,581
corrected my original post on bolt lengths last night. thanks for your help with that.

let me know if you have any other issues, so i can make this thread as correct as possible for other guys tryin to do this mod.
Reply With Quote
  #57  
Old 01-29-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Richmond, ME
Posts: 12
Does anyone know if the bolt lengths given will work for a 99 4x4.
Reply With Quote
  #58  
Old 01-30-2007
stockranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: garden grove , ca
Posts: 410
I first would like to thank Gumby and casfz1 for help with this mod.


The bolt lengths are
2 - 150 mm 2 front bed mounts.
6 - 130 mm 4 in the bed 2 for front core.
2 - 110 mm 2 rear cab mounts You may need 2 extra washers or the stock core bolt works even better so i used that on one side. The other stock bolt was damaged.

2 - 100mm???? - I'm slightly unsure about which bolts for the two front cab mounts. 110 bottomed out about 1/2" of inch from the floor. I re used the stock bolts from the rear cab mounts on the front. They work perfectly

If your bolts survive being removed this mod is an even better value.

Here are some pics.

Before with 1" t bar crank and 1 " shackle



__________________________________________________ _____________

After 1" body lift and front bumper mod.



The Gap at the front and back bumpers looked really bad . I hoped I could adjust the front bumper but when maxed out I thought it looked terrible. It was approx 1 1/4 gap on the sides of the bumper. The fix is simple and takes about an hour.

When you remove the bumper your will see the horizontal slot where the bolt goes . Simply drill a 1/2 hole just above the slot and directly in the center . You want the bottom edge of the bit to be less than 1/8 of an inch from the top of the slot. Ream the hole up and down with the drill to create a vertical notch. Use a rat tail file to extend the hole up a little more and enlarge just a hair. Then a flat fill on the sides of the notch to complete the horseshoe shape. You can't go any higher because the washer on the back will hang up and prevent it . You'd have to notch the washer to go any higher .

Before


After


Bumper mod completed. I think it is a perfect fit and so easy to do.



Next was the rear bumper . For now I just got a piece of rubber base board from The Home Depot flooring department.The total cost of supplies was 3 dollars. It comes in black, Grey , white, and brown, . It comes in 48" pieces The gap 47 3/4 " so its perfect. There are 2 widths , the smaller one worked fine but the larger one might be a little cleaner look.I was too lazy to remove the tailgate but if you did you could hide the screws by mounting the higher but u will need the wider one . I attached it with 4 #10 x 3/4" stainless steel screws but I'm going to add 2 more. I attached it by myself in about 20 minutes but it could be done in 5 with someone to help. . There are wires behind where you want to drill so make sure you look first.



I like that it easily flips up to access the spare tire hanger. The stock hole doesn't line up very well in its new position.






Before starting the car I checked all over for any strained wires , hoses , etc. The differential vent extension hose was a little too tight , that was an easy fix. I checked all around the bed , the wire on top the transfer case etc it seemed ok..

I checked the engine bay. A few wires seemed a little tighter but the only thing I could fine was the fan shroud clearance. The fan was about 1/4" or less away from hitting the shroud . I figured steeping hard on the throttle and or flexing might cause a problem. I crawled under the truck with a Dremel and cut off about an inch.Took maybe 20 minutes. Make sure you don't hit the fan with the Dremel or anything else and hot melted plastic will be falling in your eyes ! I know it said you didn't need to modify anything but make sure you look real close before you start the car and take off.

Last I checked the shifting . It went into gear but hit the bezel in 2nd and a little in 3rd and reverse. I held the boot up and went at it with the Dremel . I had to grind it all the way back to the little pegs underneath for second gear. The boot covers it up and you can't tell . The rubber boot now feels funny in second because its compressing for the last half an inch as you shift. It makes second feel stiff and mushy aswell as making some squeeky noises. Something to fix this is my next mod. Debating on Hurst shifter or fx4 shift arm.

Put on about 100 miles and hit a lot of good bumps everything seems good . The only difference I can tell is the steering is just slightly stiffer I think but most people wouldn't even notice. I put a couple more pounds of air in the tire it and it helped the steering.

Last edited by stockranger; 02-11-2007 at 11:04 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #59  
Old 01-30-2007
jtslmn720's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Kent State, Kent Ohio
Posts: 7,367
wish i would have gotten some bigger tires because id really like to do this...
Reply With Quote
  #60  
Old 01-30-2007
l2en's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: The Keystone State
Posts: 4,521
Wish I could do this =[
Reply With Quote
  #61  
Old 02-05-2007
graniteguy's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,221
nice work getting that bumper fitted to the lift. Looks top notch.
Reply With Quote
  #62  
Old 02-06-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Deltona, Fl
Posts: 24
so maybe it doesn't work with a lot of peoples aesthetics on here, but couldn't you change to a roll pan and ditch the bumper? i am genuinely asking if you can, because as of right know i don't know if it would have any issues
Reply With Quote
  #63  
Old 02-06-2007
LILBLUE04FX4L2's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Exit 105 New Jersey
Posts: 2,409
Quote:
Originally Posted by WarmWaterErik
so maybe it doesn't work with a lot of peoples aesthetics on here, but couldn't you change to a roll pan and ditch the bumper? i am genuinely asking if you can, because as of right know i don't know if it would have any issues
yes, but roll pans look better on street versus off road trucks
plus you will still need a place to pull or be pulled from if you go off road
Reply With Quote
  #64  
Old 02-06-2007
Fx4wannabe01's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boring, Oregon
Posts: 21,721
YAY!!! I'm so dang glad i found this thread!!! I'm absolutely going to do this. Better clearence for my new 32x11.50s!!! Thanks guys!!
Reply With Quote
  #65  
Old 02-26-2007
Fx4wannabe01's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boring, Oregon
Posts: 21,721
Pic request: Bed bolts.

So if I do this mod, no more torx bed bolts?? Pics please!!?? Thanks!!
Reply With Quote
  #66  
Old 02-26-2007
ScottG's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lewiston, Maine
Posts: 4,926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01
Pic request: Bed bolts.

So if I do this mod, no more torx bed bolts?? Pics please!!?? Thanks!!

thats correct


same as a 3inch bodylift
Reply With Quote
  #67  
Old 02-26-2007
Fx4wannabe01's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boring, Oregon
Posts: 21,721
Yea, I've never really looked inthe bed of a bodylifted ranger. Thanks.
Reply With Quote
  #68  
Old 02-26-2007
stockranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: garden grove , ca
Posts: 410
you know almost all the stock bolts i took out had light tight on them... the blue stuff ....I put red locktight on so i wonder if they are going to come back out when i take the bed off for the chevy leaf swap someday....

I tightened the bed bolts to approx. 55 ft pounds with the needle torque wrench. It bent the bed and the washers slightly .... maybe it was a hair too tight ....just thought i'd mention it since your thinking about those bed bolts .
Reply With Quote
  #69  
Old 04-22-2007
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 0
Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but if I were to buy these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BODY-...2749QQtcZphoto and chop them in half with a band saw, would that work to make them 1"? I'm guessing it would.


Reply With Quote
  #70  
Old 04-22-2007
l2en's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: The Keystone State
Posts: 4,521
Dude, you can buy the 1" ones. Why waste your time and the mess with the integrity of the block?
Reply With Quote
  #71  
Old 04-22-2007
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 0
There aren't 1x3's on ebay now. Theres 1x2", 2x3 and 3x3.
Reply With Quote
  #72  
Old 04-22-2007
Fx4wannabe01's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boring, Oregon
Posts: 21,721
I bought my blocks from that link posted in this thread......1x3". Ended up being 24 bucks. Did the mod a few weeks back. A friend and I were able to do it in 3hours...that includes a lotta bs'ing.
Reply With Quote
  #73  
Old 04-22-2007
l2en's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: The Keystone State
Posts: 4,521
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01
I bought my blocks from that link posted in this thread......1x3". Ended up being 24 bucks. Did the mod a few weeks back. A friend and I were able to do it in 3hours...that includes a lotta bs'ing.
Yeah, I gotta order my blocks soon as I plan on tearin off the bed for POR next weekend.

I'm just gonna deal with the consequences and have to fab up brackets for the dual shifters.
Reply With Quote
  #74  
Old 04-22-2007
Fx4wannabe01's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boring, Oregon
Posts: 21,721
yea.....I've been rolling around without my floor console/cup holder. shifter does hit the regualr ranger 5spd console. Yea.....you'll have some messing around with you and your AWESOME twin sticks.

I plan on a decent size thread on my mod. I used the stock rear cab mount bolts, and used them on the front cab mounts. The front core support mounts were a PITA! I ended up modifying them and sent the bolt in through the top, and the nut/washer was put on the bottom, instead of the top. I'll post pics in my thread tomarrow.
Reply With Quote
  #75  
Old 04-22-2007
stockranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: garden grove , ca
Posts: 410
what you need to do is message the guy who sells them on ebay . He will send you a link for a current auction on 1" blocks . thats what i had to do.

just grind back the console and the stick will clear for now .I was going to get a hurst but instead i bought a welder i'm just going to cut and weld in 1" spacer until ican afford hurst.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
4" Superlift, 3" Body Lift, with 33" Tire Pic Request blue_oval 1" & 3" Body Lifts 29 01-24-2010 08:41 PM
Where to order electrical supplies?? bucky919 General Ford Ranger Discussion 8 06-06-2008 02:49 AM
Changed Some of my Truck Cleaning Supplies rangerbert Auto Detailing 101 3 05-15-2008 07:55 PM
What car cleaning supplies do you use? 04blackedge Auto Detailing 101 35 04-26-2008 10:28 PM
Off-Roading Supplies rolla_guy72 General Ford Ranger Discussion 14 09-25-2005 05:21 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:33 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.