Ranger 1" Body Lift Supplies? - Page 5 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


1" & 3" Body Lifts General discussion of body lifts for the Ford Ranger.

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  #101  
Old 07-05-2008
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You don't need one. All you need is the longer body bolts and the 1" blocks.
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  #102  
Old 07-05-2008
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This sounds really straight forward. Im going to start gathering some supplies. The link for the blocks off of ebay doesnt work tho, where else can i find these?
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  #103  
Old 07-05-2008
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Here's a link to the seller for the 1"x3" PA lift blocks.

http://stores.ebay.com/SPORTZTRAILERS


The auction/item description says the 1x3 isn't for mini trucks....ignore that. I think it's listed as 1x3. I think they went up in price to $2.50 or something last time i looked.




EDIT: Appears they do not have any listed right now. Just send them an email.

Last edited by Fx4wannabe01; 07-05-2008 at 07:34 PM.
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  #104  
Old 07-05-2008
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Any one figure a way to move the rear bumper up yet?

Would a PA body lift bracket work if moded?

I wouldnt mind doing this but I dont want the gap guard
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  #105  
Old 07-06-2008
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^^^ i have a friend who owns a fabrication/welding shop... i figure i'll get him to make me longer brackets.
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  #106  
Old 07-06-2008
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longer brackets? the bumper bolts right to the bottom of the frame.....
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  #107  
Old 07-06-2008
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^^^ so there is no way to fix the gap? i just know that with the 3" BL there are bumper bracket extensions to get rid of the gap....

LMK i wont do it if there is going to be an ugly gap
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  #108  
Old 07-06-2008
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I'll take pics later of the 3" brackets......there's some give to them....you could possibly make brackets to make the 1" work....but it's only 1". A few pages ago is my pics of the back bumper gap. Wasn't that bad, and I rocked it.

The 3" PA brackets convert the mounting to the side of the frame rails, and utilizes the hitch mounting spot.
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  #109  
Old 07-06-2008
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Anther question

With a hitch it will still be in the same spot wont it? so it will look like it is sitting lower
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  #110  
Old 07-06-2008
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It'll look like it's sitting 1" lower IF you raise the rear bumper. All honesty, the 1" bumper/tailgate gap isn't all that bad....

You could just fill that gap like i did.

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  #111  
Old 07-06-2008
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Here's the 3" PA rear bumper lift bracket...




I'm certain you could make something similar that will allow for 1" of bumper rise....seems pretty easy to make. But, imo, it's not worth the hassle.
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  #112  
Old 07-06-2008
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^^ ya thats exactly what i will have fabbed up. Thanks for all the info. I really want to do this lift and get some slightly larger tires!
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  #113  
Old 07-06-2008
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the gap is not that bad. noone will notice it unless they look real close.
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  #114  
Old 07-06-2008
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^^Exactly...I added the diamond plate to cover the gap that i did notice. Plus....it matched my whole black diamond plate theme.

Of course, the pic i just posted a few posts back, is the worst pic...the angle REALLY shows the gap, but it ain't that bad. No one will be kneeing down to look at the truck.
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  #115  
Old 07-07-2008
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yea fabing up a bracket like that shouldnt be to hard.
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  #116  
Old 11-04-2008
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hey i would like to do it too where is the best place to get the body lift i have a 99ranger
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  #117  
Old 11-04-2008
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Did you read any of the thread, I'm guessing not.
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  #118  
Old 11-04-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchell561 View Post
hey i would like to do it too where is the best place to get the body lift i have a 99ranger
Take a look at the 4 other pages of this thread..........



it's not a kit.....you must buy blocks from a seller on ebay, and bolts from lowes or ace or true value or elsewhere. Everything you need is in this thread.
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  #119  
Old 11-16-2008
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I just recently did this mod, worked great! I ended up taking the hockey puck route (ironically maybe since i'm Canadian hahah) since i couldn't find blocks, either on ebay or at the autoparts. Works great so far, and was fairly simple to do. However, prepare to yell and scream if you're anywhere in a region that uses salt on the roads. The old hardware is very susceptible to rust, and seizes like nothing.

This is the hardware i used, since the mentioned hardware didn't fit (too short)


BEFORE YOU BEGIN..
You must have a TORX T-55 (Bed bolts) and TORX T-50(Rear seat removal) to DO this body lift.

2004 Ford Ranger EDGE 2WD Extended Cab.
CAB
-Front 2 (Rad mount) - REUSE existing.
These will provide more than enough thread for an extra inch, and will save you a TON of time since it uses a nut as well as the threadlocking cup.
-Mid 2 (front driver/pass floor) - M12x1.75x140mm HEX (plenty of thread to the shoulder, no problem)
-Rear 2 (rear driver/pass floor underneath rear seats) - M12x1.75x160mm HEX (Plenty of thread to shoulder, no problem)

YOU WILL NEED - 10 Nuts, 2 for the front then 2 for EACH mount as a locking nut. (Thread one on tight, then use the other to lock against, assures it wont loosen.) 10 1/2" or slightly larger washers for the TOP and BOTTOM of each mount (EXCEPT the front rad mounts) AS WELL as 6 Fender washers (1 1/2") for the bottom (EXCEPT front rad mounts, use on top since its reverse). This will provide even distribution and if you have too much thread, will shorten it up. But you wont.. lol.

BED - Get your T-55 ready!
-Front 2 (Nearest rear of cab) - M12x1.75x140mm HEX
REUSE existing mount tabs. These are clips on the frame of the truck, they will be more than enough to thread into without requiring nuts. If you look underneath, you will understand you WONT want to use nuts lol (rear tire removal.. etc.. ughhh)
-Mid 2 (Mid of bed) - M12x1.75x140mm HEX
Same deal, REUSE mount tabs.
-Rear 2 (Back of bed) - M12x1.75x140mm HEX
Same deal, reuse tabs.
-APPLY fender washers, 6 1 1/2" on each bolt. These WILL rip through the bed if not..

If for some reason you run OUT of bolts, reuse the front 2 (longer ones) on the bed for any of the rear bed ones, they fit great!

No worries on crush blocks. I got a couple ppl to jump around in my bed and monitored the flex, was absolutely none, however if you're concerned, take approx 4 (i believe, 2 on either side), hockey pucks, drill 2 holes on top at either end, or through the side of it, and feed a zip tie through it and through the frame of the bed at the crush points. This will relieve any stress incurred if any.

If you take the hockey puck route, which i'd advise since it's cheapest, and i've heard good things up until about, 10 years down the road.. (cracking.. minor, considering i live in a winter climate of -30 degrees celsius 4 months of the year.. salt.. etc.. ughhhh) It's VERY cost effective, this entire project cost me 40 dollars..

Hardware-
-12 hockey pucks (1" by 3" 6oz is perfect .. AKA STD size)
-Torx .. T-55 & T-50 3/8's drive or half inch, depending on what you prefer.
-12 1 1/2" fender washer's
-8 1/2" washers
-10 standard nuts (If you use locking nuts, dont use loctite.. Destroys lockers.)
-8x M12x1.75x140mm
-2x M12x1.75x160mm
-Reuse 2 front .. OR M12x1.75x120mm

Ill need to revisit the sizes more closely since i MAY have made a slight mistake, will edit in the next little while. But yea, this is basically the processes. I'll attempt to take pictures as well, but for a good reference, use the PA Body lift instructions as a guide. Don't bother with the extensions however, they're not necessary.

When lifting the body...
Lift from the mid cross member of the cab for the CAB lift. This will raise all 3 without an issue. If you would like to reuse the front bolts (RAD mounts) you will have to disconnect the ABS lines from the frame. This can be done by reaching inside the wheel well on the drivers side front. The clips are L shaped and hold 3 lines in place. Then you can lift the cab a good 2 inches HIGHER to clear the 1" block or puck in the front mount without removing the bolt. Then just lower her in place and voila.

The rear bed...
Requires no jack etc. Just 2 people. Lift it by and, slip it in, move on to the next. Takes 30 minutes to complete, including liner removal.

To remove the liner..
Simply grab the rear of the liner, and bend inwards to create an upside V shape. This will pull the edges out from under the bed sides. Use 2 People.. This way one person holds the v in position, the other pushes each corner down, then remove.

Use grade 8+ bolts.. PLEASE.
No one needs a cab/box flying off on the highway as a result of poor hardware. Go to a decent autoparts store and pick up the good stuff! Also, use loctite and antiseize in desired places. If you want to do this sometime again, antiseize will be your BEST friend.

Use bumper mod (front)...
to resume natural look as best as possible. A bracket can be fabbed to help, but the mod itself will replace the natural stance quite well. This is in the how-to's section.

Fill the rear bumper (rear)...
With anything you would like. Considering it willbe an inch lower, and some people find it ridiculous, you may want to look into alternative ways to reduce the gap, ie. fab a bumper bracket OR, diamond plate filler etc. I'm going to put a couple small lights in on my 12v out back there to use in the winter when towing my buddies out of snow drifts. Use your imagination!

I will attempt to get pic's and better info for anyone interested. Let me know.
Again, i will overlook the bolt sizing's more accurately since right now i'm going by a mock model i drew up which i believe was my first draft and had slightly different calculations then i ended up with.

Thanks!
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  #120  
Old 11-16-2008
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so you just put the blocks on the old body mounts and i can not find the body mounts

Last edited by john93rangerstx; 11-16-2008 at 01:02 PM.
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  #121  
Old 11-16-2008
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That's right!
Body mounts are quite visible. Bend down under the truck by the drivers side wheel for instance, and look at the frame rail. There is a mount welded to the frame with a rubber grommet about 3" in diameter, this is the body mount. The bed mounts are more difficult to find however. But let us know if you have an issue.
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  #122  
Old 11-16-2008
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i meant i cant find the 1 inch body mounts
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  #123  
Old 11-16-2008
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VERY nice post there Marc. That's something i've ment to do the for the last year!
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  #124  
Old 11-20-2008
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Ah well for 1" body mounts, check out your local autoparts, they may have 1" blocks (Aluminum, steal etc) that you can substitute for a rubber one such as a hockey puck. HOWEVER, if you're willing to give it a shot, its only 12$ for 12 hockey pucks :)

Thanks FX4! I appreciate that! Buying a ton of wrong bolt sizes and going into it blind is something I think we can all relate to having done once before lol. Just trying to help everyone out on their first BL!

Take care.

PS. I'll try my hardest to get some pics! Busy lately but i'll see what I can do
If anyone wants to add pics, be my guest; i'd be appreciative of everyones input.

Oh and i've completed my truck for the winter! Going to get pic's of that too :) EDGE with 2" AAL's, 2" TBar, 1" BL, 31x10.5,15 BFG AT's with 1991 Exploder rims that i steal brushed. Couldn't be happier; not to mention, my praises go out to Ranger-forums for all the info on the above stuff!
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  #125  
Old 11-20-2008
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I bet those tires look small.
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