Ranger 1" Body Lift Supplies?
Ok, 1'' BL is gonna happen soon!!! Ordered my 1'' Blocks from P/A!
M12x1.75x140mm
M12x1.75x160mm
But, Dang, who sells these size bolts, I checked Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, Local hardware.
Cant seem to find them? Any suggestions, I guess online?
Thanks,
M12x1.75x140mm
M12x1.75x160mm
But, Dang, who sells these size bolts, I checked Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, Local hardware.
Cant seem to find them? Any suggestions, I guess online?
Thanks,
Did the mod on my 96 regular cab 2wd ranger worked great. bumper space doesn't bother me. reused the the front bolts worked fine. used all 10.9's. Good by to those torque/star bit bolts in the bed, hello hex.
Did any of you have problems with the brake lines?
Did any of you have problems with the brake lines?
any of you running the 1"bl with a manual tranny, do you have the normal shifter or the fx4 shifter? with the fx4 would trimming still be needed? I just ordered the pucks yesterday and I am getting the bolts today.
I ran it with the normal, stock shifter. I do believe I trimmed the plastic floor bezel thing that has the cupholders and the boot attaches to it. And I believe the truck would not go into 2nd, 4th, or Reverse without this trimming....but it has been a good like 3 years since I did the mod. lol.
yea, iirc (bad that i cant remember just a few months ago when i put the new shifter in) the way i figure it, the fx4 goes straight up then curves towards the seats as compared to the other that almost immediately angles to the seats.
and i am having a heck of a time finding the bolts.
and i am having a heck of a time finding the bolts.
You are correct on the Fx4 shifter vs stock shifter. You can run a Fx4 shifter with a 3" without needing to run the extention. The regular shifter requires the extention to even hope to work right.
You can run 120's in the rear 4 bed bolts. I used the stock rear cab bolts for the front footwell's.
You can run 120's in the rear 4 bed bolts. I used the stock rear cab bolts for the front footwell's.
i would still like to do maybe a 2" body.i want a little more lift but i want to keep my 33s and not go bigger. 3" body is too much and i think you cant really tell a difference with a 1". i dont know though
i just wish their was more susp. part out their to get me another 1-2", beside tbar crank (already done)
i just wish their was more susp. part out their to get me another 1-2", beside tbar crank (already done)
Last edited by rideabikenick; Jun 15, 2009 at 12:23 PM.

You can use just plain old 2x1 square tubing for those if you wanted to for the 1". I didn't use them...and still dont. I dont have any pics of just the 'crush blocks' from the 3" kit.
i would still like to do maybe a 2" body.i want a little more lift but i want to keep my 33s and not go bigger. 3" body is too much and i think you cant really tell a difference with a 1". i dont know though
i just wish their was more susp. part out their to get me another 1-2", beside tbar crank (already done)
i just wish their was more susp. part out their to get me another 1-2", beside tbar crank (already done)


shane if you posted pics I can't see them,but I am on my phone. what I was actually looking for was where they go on the truck. they are just 2" by 1" blocks? I know most don't use them but i have been known to transport full 55 gallon drums bags of cement and loads of stone. so an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure for me.
Yeah...I posted 3 pics...you need to get on a computer and off your phone. lol.
Look at your truck right now...there's two crossmembers that support weight of the bed floor to the frame. You can see them through your wheel well. There's usually a sticky rubbery thing between the crossmember and the frame...the crush blocks go between the bed and the frame. The ones that come in the PA kit are approx 2x3x1...I figure you could just go ahead and use some steel stock measuring 2x1x1 and it'll do the same thing as the PA kit stuff does. Plus...it'll be better material as well.
I'll see if i can find a pic with a truck with crush blocks.
Look at your truck right now...there's two crossmembers that support weight of the bed floor to the frame. You can see them through your wheel well. There's usually a sticky rubbery thing between the crossmember and the frame...the crush blocks go between the bed and the frame. The ones that come in the PA kit are approx 2x3x1...I figure you could just go ahead and use some steel stock measuring 2x1x1 and it'll do the same thing as the PA kit stuff does. Plus...it'll be better material as well.
I'll see if i can find a pic with a truck with crush blocks.




