id actually just get a second 3 inch kit that way it will be 6 inches of lift. Easy 35's if not 37's

 

^^That's enough of that wickedly stupidness.

 

Ok - So i've decided I want to go ahead and do the 1inch lift. I've ordered the blocks off of the link provided and now I want to order my bolts. I am very OCD in my research and I might be looking into this too much but I've noticed that there are several different posts for bolt sizes. Which post is the correct set? I have a 2005 Edge 4x4

Here is a list of the different bolt sizes in the post:

PG 1:
(2) 12x1.75x90mm
(2) 12x1.75x110mm
(6) 12x1.75x130mm
(2) 12x1.75x150mm

PG 3:
(2) 12x1.75x110mm
(8) 12x1.75x130mm
(2) 12x1.75x150mm

PG 4:
2 - 150 mm 2 front bed mounts.
6 - 130 mm 4 in the bed 2 for front core.
2 - 110 mm 2 rear cab mounts You may need 2 extra washers or the stock core bolt works even better so i used that on one side. The other stock bolt was damaged.

2 - 100mm???? - I'm slightly unsure about which bolts for the two front cab mounts. 110 bottomed out about 1/2" of inch from the floor. I re used the stock bolts from the rear cab mounts on the front. They work perfectly

PG 7:
8x M12x1.75x140mm
-2x M12x1.75x160mm
-Reuse 2 front .. OR M12x1.75x120mm

PG 8:
Another thing on bolts...at least 98+......I used the rear cab bolts for the front. I found 120mm work fine for the bed and front core support. 150mm for the front bed bolts. And i'm even thinking 120mm for the rear cab bolts. When i sold like 3 sets of 1" bl bolts, i sent 150's, 120's, 110's, and 100's. i think i sent like 16 bolts total just in case? It's been a while i know that.

PG 10:
2 - M12x1.75x110mm
6 - M12x1.75x130mm
2 - M12x1.75x150mm
2 - M12x1.75x100mm

I want to make sure I have what I need when I start so that I am not scrambling around last minute looking for a bolt that might be slightly off. Thanks for any assistance on this!

 

WOW-This is an old thread-but still usefull! I just ordered my spacers, will order the bolts from work on Tuesday. Definitely make sure that you use Grade 10.9 bolts---metric equivalent of Grade 8.
Miker

 

Thanks for the tip! You'll have to let me know what set of bolt sizes you decided to go with.

 

Ok I think I answered my own question. I am going to go ahead and order the bolts from pg 1 (listed below). The reason being is that I looked at the bolt sizes from the PA 3" BL kit and if you subtract 2 inches - you get the measurements from page 1. Thanks for all the good info!

 

didn't want to look through full pages, anyone have the link to the bolts/blocks i need to order for this?

 

Bolt lengths are on the first page. Local hardware store or hitting up McMaster.com or a specialty bolt shop would do too.

Blocks you can get from Performance Accessories direct.




it's only 12 pages bro. Links posted multiple times.

 

ah mmk i figured it out, i just saw the ebay link and its mega old and don't work, so i figured the others wouldn't.

any post on which length bolts where?

i'ma order the blocks tonight.

 

Post #8....
Those were the exact bolt measurements I used and the same ones I used to sell to members for their 'kit' building.


See also a post a few posts above yours from someone whom just did the mod....

 

Just got my 1" blocks from P/A today, bolts should be here later this week or early next week. Fastenal seems like the best place to get the bolts-I deal with McMaster-Carr all the time at work, but their 12mm 10.9 bolt selection nad pricing isn't as good as Fastenal's.
MikeR

 

I finally got my bolts from Fastenal today. Now I just have to catch up with a guy from work to get this lift in before Carlisle Ford Nats.
Heat (Mapp Gas) or just PB Blaster on the bolts? I'd rather not have to wory about melting the bushings if at all possible, but I also don't want to kill myself getting the factory bolts out!
I have the instructions from the PA 3" BL-do I have to drill-out the stock bushings at the core support for the 1" like it says to for the 3"?
Thanks
MikeR

 

MAPP gas is best. Get the bolt heated and just when the bushing starts to smoke, hit the bolt head with the impact.

The same mods you've gotta do to the core support bushing on the 3" kit, you'll have to do on the 1". At lease I had to. lol.

 

Are the cab bolts Torx like the bed bolts or are they hex head?

 

Lift went in yesterday. Took about 3 hours start-to-finish. Here's what I used for hardware:
2---M12-1.75 x 150mm 10.9 Front of bed
6---M12-1.75 x 130mm 10.9 4-for bed, 2 for core support
2---M12-1.75 x 110mm 10.9 rear cab
2---M12-1.75 nylok nuts core suport
I ordered all of this from Fastenal.
18---1/2" grade8 washers
8---5/8" grade8 washers
Do yourself a favor and get a few extra washers-they're cheap enough-ended up having to use 4 on each 110mm at the rear cab--bolts bottomed out.
Reused stock rear cab bolts in the footwells.
And of course 12 3"x1" spacers from PA
I stacked 1/2" and 5/8"(1 of each) and JB Welded them together to use in the bed and then hit them with some Rustoleum bedliner top and bottom about a week ahead of time.
Also-download the instructions from Performance Accessories' website-read through them and make notes for your body gaps-they are good to have on hand even if you don't need most of them. Hit your bed bolts and core support bolts really well with some PB Blaster ahead of time. Have some Mapp gas handy-I had 2 bottles on hand expecting the worse-only needed it for the rear cab bolts. It also helps to have somebody help who's put a body lift in before-even if it wasn't in a Ranger.

We did this in a REALLY small garage with a floor pit--pit worked out really well.

1) Have kick panels and jump seats removed ahead of time.
2) Disconnect NEGATIVE battery terminal
3) Roll back carpet to gain access to plugs in floor
4) Pop-out the floor plugs-you might need a screwdriver to get them started
5) We did the core support first---do one side at a time---use a 18mm deep well socket with enough extensions to reach the top nut-there's a hole in the radiator support to gain access---hit the bolt from below with an impact with a 18mm just enough to get the nut off. STOP. Don't forget the big slotted washer.
6) Now get the cab bolts. Foot well ones came right out with the impact for us. Had to heat-up both rear ones. Put the Mapp gas to them from underneath until you start to smell rubber, then whack them from above with the impact wtih a 18mm-should come right out. We loosened them all but only removed one side at a time.
7) Get some blocks of wood and stack them on a floor jack. Position jack under the cab support about in the middle-there's a support there that runs perpendicular to the frame.
8) Start jacking SLOWLY until there is about 1-1/2" clearance. STOP. Go back to the core support.
9) This part sucks! Get a BIG pair of vise grips. The body mount at the core support is threaded. Hit it with some PB. The washer for the mount has flat side-grab the flats with the vise grips and hang on. Have your helper start going at the holt with the impact-we found that if you kind of "rock" the bushing around while spinning the bolt with the impact, it will eventualy catch some threads and spin right out. Take your time-like I said-this part sucks!
10) Grab a 15/32" drill bit, put that bushing in a vise and drill out the threads. Try not to tear your arm off when the drill bit catches!
11) Chug a bottle of water-it's time fore some new parts.
12) From above install 130mm bolt through the slotted washer,down through the core support, feed it through the PA spacer, the drilled-out bushing, the frame ear(?) and the lower bushing. Make sure the upper bushing seats into the frame ear-it's flat on the sides so it keys into the frame ear. 5/8" flat washer, 1/2" flat washer, nylok nut. Just start the nylok for now. 19mm sockets for this.
13) Reuse the stock rear cab bolt in the footwell location-drop it in the hole, feed it through the spacer, and start it into the frame mount.
14) Use a 110mm bolt in the rear cab mount location. We had to use 4 washers-could have probably ordered 100mm bolts for here, the 110's ran out of thread. Feed bolt through spacer and into frame mount.
15) SLOWLY lower the jack. Repeat--SLOWLY. Once weight is off of the jack, run the cab bolts in with the impact. Do not tighten all the way yet-snug is good. Run the nut on the core support up onto the bolt. Do not tighten all the way yet.
16) Lower the jack and go around to the other side of the truck. Repeat steps 4-15. Once both sides are lifted and sitting on the frame, get underneath and check everything-make sure nothing is getting pinched or rubbing--brake lines, electrical looms, etc. Spin your fan and make sure it spins freely. We had to take a Dremel with a cut-off wheel and flex shaft to the fan shroud to gain clearance. It's close quarters in there, but take you time, remove a little bit at a time, and be careful around the tranny cooler lines. the piece that I removed ended up being about 1"x15". Use the flange that's molded into the shroud as a guide. Check your progress as you go.
17) Once all of your clearances are good, check your body lines and gaps with measurements taken earlier. Once everything looks good, back out the cab bolts one at a time, apply thread lock, run them back in, and torque to 55 lb-ft.
18) Grab your T-55 Torx bit and loosen the bed bolts--these are the ones that gave us the most trouble, which is suprising because i had them out when I Herculined the bed. You might have to work them in and out a few times to get them to come out.
19) Lift up the bed enough to slip the spacers in between the bed and the frame, feed the bolts (with stacked, JB Welded washers) through the bed, the spacers, and start them into the frame.
20) Repeat on the other side. Again, check your clearances underneath. Check you body gaps, sight down the body lines to make sure it looks straight, then tighten the bed bolts, again torquing them to 55 lb-ft. We didn't use Loctite on the bed bolts in case the bed has to come off again for service. I had some 1"x2" rectangular tubing cut to use as crush blocks, but we didn't bother using them.
21) Do the front bumper mod outlined earlier in the thread, fill in the gap below the tailgate if it bothers you, pick up you tools, and stand back and admire your work. You wouldn't think that 1" would make much of a difference, but you'll be amazed.
Don't hate on me because I didn't get any "in-progress" pictures, but a) we wanted to get it done, and b) there was literally no room in this garage to get any decent pics.

Hope this helps

MikeR

 

Oh yeah---
22) Reconnect your negative battery cable!
MikeR

 

Wirelessly posted (Android)

So where you guys get your bolts? Nobody sells anything above a grade 5 around here. Any suggestions would be great since I wanted to do this Saturday. Fastenal didn't even carry them.

 

Fastenal

 

i could find about half of mine in town, the rest i sent in for at Boltdepot. i was pretty happy with their service, and i would not hesitate to order through them again.

http://www.boltdepot.com/

 

Did you order them online or get them in one of the stores?

 

I updated my last post with a link to their webpage if thats pointed at me. i just ordered them online. lol, i posted and realized something was missing.

 

Wirelessly posted (Android)

Well bolt depot doesn't have the 150mm so looks like I have to order them from fastenal. Found everything else local except those 2 bolts

 

I ordered mine from Fastenal online, but they didn't have all of them in stock. Took about 2 weeks for everything to finally get to me. MAKE SURE THAT YOU ARE GETTING GRADE 10.9 BOLTS!!!
Metric equivalent to Grade 8 SAE
MikeR

 

[QUOTE=stockranger;560296]I first would like to thank Gumby and casfz1 for help with this mod.


The bolt lengths are
2 - 150 mm 2 front bed mounts.
6 - 130 mm 4 in the bed 2 for front core.
2 - 110 mm 2 rear cab mounts You may need 2 extra washers or the stock core bolt works even better so i used that on one side. The other stock bolt was damaged.

2 - 100mm???? - I'm slightly unsure about which bolts for the two front cab mounts. 110 bottomed out about 1/2" of inch from the floor. I re used the stock bolts from the rear cab mounts on the front. They work perfectly



so these bolts are what m12?

 

Can anyone with complete certainty tell me the bolt sizes for the 1 inch body lift on a 2010 extended cab Ranger? The newer models have 16 bolts correct? 10 bed bolts as opposed to 6

Why is it necessary to drill out the threads out of the core support top and bottom bushings? Can you no use the same thread bolt as the bushing? Are the required bolts not the same?

Is there a way to lower the radiator to prevent cutting the shroud?