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-   -   1995 B2300 2wd Manual Engine Removal Help (https://www.ranger-forums.com/2-3l-2-5l-i4-tech-31/1995-b2300-2wd-manual-engine-removal-help-157611/)

Pax 04-18-2019 08:03 AM

1995 B2300 2wd Manual Engine Removal Help
 
I have a 1995 Mazda b2300 2wd manual that I bought a new engine for. I’ve never swapped an engine on any vehicle before any tips or recommendations are greatly appreciated. I’ve done some some research already but if there’s any information that anyone who reads this would like to input to make this a little easier on me would help out a lot.

Thank you in Advance!

2011Supercab 04-18-2019 02:36 PM

Take lots of pictures before and during disassembly

Before you unplug that wire, put a piece of masking tape on it and mark it with a number, take a picture.
Before you unplug that vacuum line, put a piece of masking tape on it and mark it with a number, take a picture.
Before you remove that part, take a picture.

Pax 04-20-2019 02:25 PM

Thank you I will make sure to do that ,I’ve read quite a bit of information on it it doesn’t seem too hard. I just need to find a way to pull the old engine out and drop the new one in since I don’t have a cherry picker.

Jeff R 1 04-20-2019 03:48 PM

If you pull the trans with it, be sure the stick shift is in neutral when removing it.
Drain the oil from the trans as well, so when it's lifted out, it doesn't run out the back end of the transmission.

Pax 04-20-2019 04:44 PM

Thank you for the advice. Do you have any advice if i dont pull the trans, because the trans is fine im leaving it.

Jeff R 1 04-20-2019 05:36 PM

Make sure the trans and engine are well supported when you separate them so the input shaft of the transmission doesn't get bent.
Once you have the engine out, consider replacing the slave clutch cylinder since it's now accessible, be sure and use a Ford Motor Craft slave cylinder, the aftermarket ones seem to fail with in a year.

Unbolt as much stuff as necessary from the top of the engine to gain access to the bell housing bolts.

Personally I've always found it easier to install an engine with out the head(s) in place, that also gives a spot for the engine jack to bolt too.
Don't damage the block surface when bolting the chain or cable when attaching the engine jack.
Having the head out of the way makes it easier to bolt the trans back into place.

Remember to lube the needle bearing at the end of the crankshaft before assembly, I use a clear silicon synthetic grease, but I suppose you could use anything.

This being your first, I'm sure you'll have lots of questions, Ron, myself and others will be here to help.

Take you time and check your work so you remember things as you go along, there's nothing more frustrating doubting yourself wondering if you forget something.

Pax 04-20-2019 07:40 PM

I really appreciate that i will keep progress updated and will reference these messages if I get lost. I just bought the engine and I’m busy this weekend with the holiday so next weekend is when I will start.

Thanks everyone again.

Rari 10-03-2022 04:26 PM

Engine removal
 
What’s up guys , it’s my first time removing the engine of my 1995 ranger 2.3 manual , and I’ve loosened all the bolts on the transmission including the engine mounts . I tried to take the engine out but still seems to be connected to the transmission. Is there any bolts I need to loosen from the clutch ? I’m willing to take any advice thanks in advance


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