98' 2.5 engine issues
#1
98' 2.5 engine issues
When I drive the truck feels like its is bouncing forward rather than staying and a single speed. It does this in any gear and at any speed accelerating or not. A buddy of mine got in it and revved the engine for a while and said I had a "vacuum leak from hell" It still runs but is very annoying to deal with. Suggestions?
#2
RF Veteran
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Welcome to the forum
Easy test for vacuum leak
Warm up the engine and let it idle
Open the hood and unplug the 2 wires on the IAC Valve
IAC Valve will close and idle should drop down to 500rpm or engine may even stall, either is GOOD, it means no vacuum leaks.
If idle doesn't change(drop) then you have a leak
With IAC Valve still unplugged pull off 1 vacuum hose at a time from intake and plug that port with your finger, idle should drop when you find the port with the leak.
Start with PCV Valve hose, bad PCV valve can be the same as a vacuum leak
If you do not have a vacuum leak, after doing above test, then I would replace TPS(throttle position sensor) on spec.
TPS is like a volume control or light dimmer, a variable resistor
TPS gets 5 volts from computer, and it sends back under 1 volt(.69-.99v) to computer if throttle is closed
And it sends back 4.5volts if throttle is Wide Open.
And this voltage should be stable at any point in between
If the TPS gets worn out in one spot, it could be varying the voltage, like 1.4v to 1.6v and then back to 1.4v, so computer "thinks" you are tapping on the gas pedal, feathering the pedal up and down
You can test TPS with Volt meter and sewing needle, turn on the key, engine off
Pierce the center wire on 3 wire TPS connector, with sewing needle
Ground the meter and put red probe on needle, should see under 1 volt
Now slowly open throttle manually and watch voltage change, should be steady, no jumps or drops, until you get to WOT(wide open throttle) and then you should see 4.5v or higher, up to 4.9v
Easy test for vacuum leak
Warm up the engine and let it idle
Open the hood and unplug the 2 wires on the IAC Valve
IAC Valve will close and idle should drop down to 500rpm or engine may even stall, either is GOOD, it means no vacuum leaks.
If idle doesn't change(drop) then you have a leak
With IAC Valve still unplugged pull off 1 vacuum hose at a time from intake and plug that port with your finger, idle should drop when you find the port with the leak.
Start with PCV Valve hose, bad PCV valve can be the same as a vacuum leak
If you do not have a vacuum leak, after doing above test, then I would replace TPS(throttle position sensor) on spec.
TPS is like a volume control or light dimmer, a variable resistor
TPS gets 5 volts from computer, and it sends back under 1 volt(.69-.99v) to computer if throttle is closed
And it sends back 4.5volts if throttle is Wide Open.
And this voltage should be stable at any point in between
If the TPS gets worn out in one spot, it could be varying the voltage, like 1.4v to 1.6v and then back to 1.4v, so computer "thinks" you are tapping on the gas pedal, feathering the pedal up and down
You can test TPS with Volt meter and sewing needle, turn on the key, engine off
Pierce the center wire on 3 wire TPS connector, with sewing needle
Ground the meter and put red probe on needle, should see under 1 volt
Now slowly open throttle manually and watch voltage change, should be steady, no jumps or drops, until you get to WOT(wide open throttle) and then you should see 4.5v or higher, up to 4.9v
Last edited by RonD; 12-31-2017 at 12:15 PM.
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