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Blown 2.3L
Hey all,
Thought I would share my supercharging project! A while back I threw the idea out here (on some other thread) of supercharging my 96 2.3. It came with no AC, so there was this PERFECT hole right there begging for something to be installed. The outlook was favorable so here are the results! I started with my recently rebuilt 2.3L; bored 30 over; I put in an early no-roller cam with my rollers to get about another .15" lift. It has been running with no problems. Slow as heck, but running fine for months. I upgraded the injectors to 19lb. Direct drop ins, intended for a Jeep. About 45 minutes top to install I also hacked the IAT with a resistor. This makes the computer read it as cooler (therefore denser) air and gives a little more fuel. After installing the supercharger, I have to add more resistance as it runs too lean with the IAT plugged in. More in the later notes. I started with an AMR500 from ebay. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...e70a29d85c.jpg I built a mounting bracket to go where the AC compressor would be - and I did some cutting away at the orginal bracket and a little on the intake manifold to get as much clearance as possible. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...a106d83e7f.jpg I had reworked the original flanges, cutting them down and JBwelding some 1.75" conduit on. THey looked like this (but they all broke): https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...0d0b32c85c.jpg I had to borrow a welder and make some new ones out of 1/4" sheet metal and 1.75" Conduit. The exit flange is significantly different than the original design - just to clear the intake manifold and get good flow. It can bee seen partially in some of the pics. I did have to create the duct for the IAT. It looks like this: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...310640fb18.jpg Piping was straight forward. 3.5" intake to 2.5 pipes. I padded these with heater hose to get into and out of the supercharger. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...53c65a210e.jpg I used the BOV as a BPV, rerouting to before the supercharger. I removed the stiff spring and set the valve all the way soft. It's function is completely unnoticeable like this. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...f56dd00bf1.jpg This is the backside. Please don't make fun of my welds; they stink but they hold a charge. the exit pipe is routed as closely as possible to the supercharger until it clears the top - at an angle. I also used the larger pulley that I bought. The smaller pulley was putting too much boost and was REALLY noisy. The ECU couldn't take the boost (looked like 7+) and had random bad effects. The larger pulley (in the parts list) provides about 3-5 PSI boost most of the time. Car only detonates when driving REALLY Hard at 4800 rpm or so. The bottom end is VERY much improved. It can hold overdrive on hills around hill and takes little throttle on the highway. I have not measured the 0-60 improvements yet. SOP dyno is definitely improved. BTW I run 93 octane. Truck has a beautiful whine. Still not a monster, but more fun and a great project. Great HP for the $$ and time spent. Anyways, here is the parts list. Piping Ebay US $35.57 UNIVERSAL BILLET ANODIZED TYPE-S TURBO BLOW OFF VALVE BOV+2.5" FLANGE PIPE BLUE ( 401462519584 ) US $12.46 2.5'' 63 mm Blow Off Valve Adapter Aluminum T-Pipe Shape Tube for 25mm ID BOV ( 184388827088 ) US $16.43 1" ID FlexFab 5526-100 Silicone Heater Hose $/ft Blue 25mm Radiator CoolantR( 300851165242 ) Quantity: 1 ft SiliconIntakes Products ------------------------------------------------------ 1 x Silicone Port System (ANF000500) = $14.99 (you could do without this. It is a PITA. 1 x T-Bolt Clamp for 3.5" Silicone Parts (CLA000105) = $2.60 2 x Silicone Reducer, 90° bend - 2.5" to 2.0" - Blue (BRE000959) = $39.98 1 x 2' Straight Aluminum Pipe, 2.5" (SIL000755) = $14.99 1 x 2.5" Silicone Straight Coupler, Blue (SIL000602) = $5.99 1 x 2.5" Silicone 90° Elbow, Blue (SIL000002) = $16.99 1 x Silicone Reducer, 3.5" to 2.5" - Blue (SIL000069) = $11.99 ------------------------------------------------------ Sub-Total: $129.72 – 16.99 – 5.20 = 107.53 Supercharger and Injectors Ebay US $185.79 Order Supercharger AMR500 Mini Roots Compressor Blower ( 193621864314 ) US $32.85 Order 6 x Upgrade Fuel Injectors TJ XJ YJ ZJ US fit Jeep Cherokee Grand Cherokee ( 293593896091 ) (19 lb injectors) Pulleys Ebay US $12.32 Delco CS130D AD244 AD230 Alternator 6 Groove - 57mm Pulley - for 17MM Shaft ( 183800068743 ) With 148MM crank pully gives 2.6:1 drive ratio (Theoretic boost 2.5-5.4psi; depending on blower efficiency) Misc Advance auto parts 775k6 – after lowering blower an inch $16.68 ________________________ Misc. hose clamps 1.5” Angle iron 1/4" Sheet metal (for flanges) M12 bolts/nuts Curved radiator hose; 1.5” (16$; advance auto parts) 1.75” OD conduit (90 degree angle; 10$ home depot ) Hi temp black silicon Supporting Mod E-Projects 10EP51268K0 68k Ohm Resistors, 1/2 W, 5% (Pack of 10) $5.59 (used inline with IAT; reduces Intake Air reading (lowers Air/Fuel mixtures) ________________________ Total: ~ $452.22 (plus shipping) _____________________________ _____________________________ Supporting mod installation Fuel injectors – 1 hr ; direct replacement IAT resistor – 5 minutes; soldered inline Supercharger bracket – 5 hours (lots of trial and error) Supercharger inlet/outlet – 5 hours (trial and error to make it as close as possible - and fit in the truck!) Get a boost gauge – to determine correct pulley Install port system in 90Degree 2” silicon pipe. |
Nice write up!
Now clean those welds!! LOL |
Thanks!
I have been looking at the trim data and the injectors need to be upgraded again. Under WOT stft is pegging 28.91. I don't drive WOT much but It definitely need more fuel flow. |
One year later - here is a needed update. About one month in the motor started loosing oil - about a quart a week which is just so much. I finally got tired of that so I had to do some work. The oil issue was caused by the PCV system (the front main seal blew out). Here is the fix to avoid the issue:
An oil catch can from amazon: ~$25. Tiny breather for the valve cover, $5. Cap off the intake port that is attached to the PCV valve. Take the valve itself off the motor; cut off the bottom and remove the spring and weight and then replace it in the oil separator. route the newly gutted PCV valve to the input of the oil catch can. Route the out to somewhere between the MAF sensor and the supercharger; do NOT put if after the supercharger. Put the breather on top and your golden. I'll be checking it weekly at this point. If I see blow by (that nasty white stuff) around the breather on top, I will route it into an oil catch can and then the intake as well. Only addition would then be check valves on both sides of the crankcase |
Boost curve
I was thinking on supercharging my 88' ranger, and I came upon your thread. It seems like exactly what I'm looking to do. Around what rpm does your setup start building boost?
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Originally Posted by Salty's_Garage
(Post 2208993)
I was thinking on supercharging my 88' ranger, and I came upon your thread. It seems like exactly what I'm looking to do. Around what rpm does your setup start building boost?
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Originally Posted by Mike_M
(Post 2209001)
It's not like a turbo so it builds boost from stall up but more at higher rpms. However, make sure to install dual catch cans and look out for intake gasket leaks. Those are not in the write up.
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Vacuum is not a problem. (I actually took my supercharger off a while back - I blew the seals out by putting in too much lubricant. It needs to be rebuilt now.) At any rate, when I was running it, there was no issue with vaccuum. It held around 18 psi at idle. Brake boosters have a check valve so they "accumulate" boost so that is no issue.
Run one catch can from the PCV valve to somewhere before the throttle body. That PCV valve, however, will not be weighted properly when you set up the supercharger. In the end (after blowing out both the front and rear main seals), I ran this without a PCV valve. The catch can gets all the nasties there. You can put a check valve on this one - so that it only flows OUT of the lower crank case. Run another catch can from the valve cover - also before the throttle body. No valve or anything on this one - it has to breathe both in and out (otherwise the seals blow). I would not run a vented catch can unless you like your truck to smell like a lawnmower. Plumbing both cans into the intake somewhere between the air filter and the throttle body works best and doesn't put vapors into the atmosphere. I hope that makes sense. I run this same catch can setup on my turbo Dodge. I still use this setup on my ranger even though I pulled off the supercharger, with no issues at all. Check the catch cans when you change the oil of the truck. |
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