Ok, i thought that it might be a plug missing, but i dont think thats the problem now, it it now doing it all throught the driving process, before it only seemed to happen at idle and now its also becomeing more pronounced, it at time almost sounds like a back fire, but not that loud and its not shooting anything out of the tail pipe with any extreme force, it still seems as though it wants to die when it spuders and is allowed to sit spudering for a few minutes. it also gets worse the longer it idles.So what could it be?? timing, bad valve, bad fuel filter, dirty injectors?? And how can i tell (cheaply)without going trial and error? Thanks guys

Jess

 

I had the same problem with my 2.5 and it turned out to be the Idle Air Control valve. The way I figured that out was to unplug the IAC valve and see if the condidtion worsened or stayed the same. Mine stayed the same so I replaced the valve and it fixed it.

 

Another quick method to handle this would be:

Remove the IAC valve (Idle Air Control). Use an 8mm socket with a 3" extension to get to the bolts.

The IAC valve is the cylindrical item on the back side of the throttle body.


The bolts face towards the firewall, so you probably won't be able to easily SEE them. Just feel for them by hand.

Once you get the bolts off, disconnect the wire connector by pressing in on the tab and pulling the connector off.

Spray some throttle body cleaner, carburetor cleaner, injector cleaner, or other strong aerosol solvent into the two openings of the IAC valve and let it soak, then turn it around to drain the fluid out. The metal cap on the flange end comes off with a slight pull. It has some foam filter elements inside which can be cleaned with a mild dish detergent and warm water.

Make sure you dry everything out with compressed air, or let it stand for a few minutes to evaporate the solvents and water before bolting it back on to the throttle body. Also, make sure the gasket is positioned properly between the valve and throttle body.

If this doesn't cure your problem you can start replacing items, but this would be a great way to rule out a common problem of a stuck IAC valve on these trucks!

 

Well it started to backfire alittle today so well at least i know how to describe to problem, I didnt even know a fuel injected engine could backfire, so what could it be?? still the idle air valve?? when it sits and starts to backfire i can smell alot more gas in the exhaust than there should be so im guessing its a mixture issue, if you guys think it might be as well how can you adjust the air/fuel mix on a fuel injected engine??

 

That could be caused by one of many things. It's time to start diagnosing the problem instead of describing the symptoms. Pull that valve off and see if it's stuck open/closed. Clean it and put it back on, then try the truck again. If that didn't work, tell us and we'll go to the next hardest/expensive items.

When was the last time you had plugs and wires checked/replaced? What year is the truck, and who does the service? Is there a Check Engine Light on?

This could also be a bad connection in the ignition wireset somewhere. Make sure all the wires are clipped into the DIS modules all the way, and that the other ends are resting firmly on the plugs. You may need to pull plugs at this point and check their elements anyway.

 

The valve has been cleaned and that didnt help anything,, and also its and 89, with a 2.3 i-4. I have done all the service sense i bought the truck in late december. This is the first real problem with it, it also has 107,000 miles. I was told today that sense its fuel injected, i have only afew options, and they are a clogged cat, a bad sensor in the exhaust, moisture in the fuel tank, and timing belt. My friend who has an 89 ranger just like mine except his has 500,000 miles on it said that he thinks its an o2 sensor, especially sense the exhaust smell soo rich, he said that on his that sensor goes out about every 100,000 miles give or take 10,000. Anyone think that that might be it?? It seems like its the cheapest option to try next and easiest, but i dont want to through money away even if its a simple 10-20 buck, my money is real tight so its hard to just start pulling and replacing as part of a possible problems check list. I also had another friend who said it sounds like timing to him, but if the timing is off, will that cause the exhaust to be rich?? Sense my car has a timing belt, is there even a point have it checked and retimed, or do just simply have to change the belt (God i hope not)? Well theres alot here so i appriciate the help guys and i look forward to your opinions.

Jess

 

Carbon on my valves and my valve guides. It's preventing the valves from opening all the way on time, so im gonna start adding about a quart of ATF when i fill my tank up for about the next 6 tanks and run the tach out more, as per the instructions from the dealership. I just figured i would update the thread in case this problem pops up for anyone else.

 

Wow.....are you certain adding ATF to the fuel will correct the problem???

I would pull the head and clean it all up, if I were you. At the very LEAST, I would do a full Seafoam treatment and go from there! How did you find out it was valve build-up?

 

the dealership, thats where i resorted to taking it. They told me that it was carbon on the valves and valve guides, he said the best way to get rid of it was ATF in my fuel, and my father who has never worked on a non-carburated vehicle said he had the same problem on his 72 nova and he used to pour ATF right into the carburator, so im gonna do that for a bit and hope it fixes the problem.