Wont start
#1
#2
RF Veteran
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Welcome to the forum
50/50 test
Spray gasoline or Quick Start(ether) into the intake
Try to start engine
If it starts and then dies fuel is the problem
If it doesn't start/fire then spark is the problem
50/50
It would be helpful to know what engine you have, and that would depend on the year of the Ranger
2001 and older had Lima 2.3l or 2.5l
2002 and up had 2.3l Duratec
They are completely different engines so after 50/50 test results what to look at next would depend on the engine
50/50 test
Spray gasoline or Quick Start(ether) into the intake
Try to start engine
If it starts and then dies fuel is the problem
If it doesn't start/fire then spark is the problem
50/50
It would be helpful to know what engine you have, and that would depend on the year of the Ranger
2001 and older had Lima 2.3l or 2.5l
2002 and up had 2.3l Duratec
They are completely different engines so after 50/50 test results what to look at next would depend on the engine
#6
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
2.5l, and the 2.3l, Limas have dual coil packs and dual spark plugs
But one oddball thing to keep in mind, ONLY the exhaust side(passenger side) spark plugs and coil work when starting the engine.
Drivers side spark is disabled until RPMs are above 400
Both spark plugs spark at each top-dead-center, there is no alternating, once RPMs are 400+ all the spark plugs are active all the time.
Did you pull out spark plugs?
If so what did the tips tell you about each cylinder
Google: spark plug reading chart
Your Ranger will be a 1998 to 2001, that means it has the OBD2 computer(PCM)
There will be a CEL(check engine light) in the instrument cluster
It should come on when key is turned on, then go off after engine is running
It the CEL working?
If not bulb may be burned out, so if no CEL at key on or if CEL is on after engine starts then you will need to get the CODES using an OBD2 reader/scanner
That will narrow down possible cause of the rough idle
Double check spark plug wires on Coil Packs, easy to reverse a couple
You may have pulled off a vacuum line so now too much air at idle and enough air under load, so original problem could have been a dirty MAF sensor
But one oddball thing to keep in mind, ONLY the exhaust side(passenger side) spark plugs and coil work when starting the engine.
Drivers side spark is disabled until RPMs are above 400
Both spark plugs spark at each top-dead-center, there is no alternating, once RPMs are 400+ all the spark plugs are active all the time.
Did you pull out spark plugs?
If so what did the tips tell you about each cylinder
Google: spark plug reading chart
Your Ranger will be a 1998 to 2001, that means it has the OBD2 computer(PCM)
There will be a CEL(check engine light) in the instrument cluster
It should come on when key is turned on, then go off after engine is running
It the CEL working?
If not bulb may be burned out, so if no CEL at key on or if CEL is on after engine starts then you will need to get the CODES using an OBD2 reader/scanner
That will narrow down possible cause of the rough idle
Double check spark plug wires on Coil Packs, easy to reverse a couple
You may have pulled off a vacuum line so now too much air at idle and enough air under load, so original problem could have been a dirty MAF sensor
#7
No check engine light when running.i didnt go near any vacuum lines.it is very hard to start.only when pedal to floor an atruggles to idle.i did have light on before was cyl r4 misfire.all plugs were black.cyl 4 on pass side was the worst.i triple checked wires an they are correct.wondering what todo next.cleaned maf an egr.disconnected battery for 15 mins.put 2gal gas in it.
#8
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Pull off the IAC(idle air control) Valve, two bolts
Connect it's two wire connect back to it if you unplugged it
Turn on the key and the valve inside should slide open all the way
Unplug the wires and it should close all the way
test it a few times by unplugging and plugging in it's wires
IAC Valve is just like a solenoid, apply the 12volts it moves one-way, cut the 12volts and it moves the other way.
If it is not moving test the two wires for 12volts and Ground, key on
If it has 12volts and good ground then replace IAC Valve
Not enough air at startup would make it hard to start and very poor idle
To start a fuel injected engine you should never have to touch the gas pedal, Computer does all that for you by opening up the IAC Valve all the way for starting, this lets in plenty of air.
Then, after engine starts, it will close it a bit to set the IDLE, high idle with cold engine, lower idle as engine/coolant warms up.
TPS(throttle position sensor), has 3 wires, unplug them
Start engine, you should get CEL in a minute or two, but see if start up and idle is better
MAF sensor, do the same, unplug its 6 wire connector and start engine, see if it starts better
Connect it's two wire connect back to it if you unplugged it
Turn on the key and the valve inside should slide open all the way
Unplug the wires and it should close all the way
test it a few times by unplugging and plugging in it's wires
IAC Valve is just like a solenoid, apply the 12volts it moves one-way, cut the 12volts and it moves the other way.
If it is not moving test the two wires for 12volts and Ground, key on
If it has 12volts and good ground then replace IAC Valve
Not enough air at startup would make it hard to start and very poor idle
To start a fuel injected engine you should never have to touch the gas pedal, Computer does all that for you by opening up the IAC Valve all the way for starting, this lets in plenty of air.
Then, after engine starts, it will close it a bit to set the IDLE, high idle with cold engine, lower idle as engine/coolant warms up.
TPS(throttle position sensor), has 3 wires, unplug them
Start engine, you should get CEL in a minute or two, but see if start up and idle is better
MAF sensor, do the same, unplug its 6 wire connector and start engine, see if it starts better
#9
Removed iac valve an turn key on/off the inner parts do not move.also with unplugged it runs the same as when plugged in.i cannot remove the tps the screw is stripped i removed throttle body for better access still cant remove.i did notice small corrosion on 1 of the pins from the tps plug.cleaned best i could.
#10
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#11
#12
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
If computer and sensors are working as it should then this should happen
Engine cold
Startup should have a high idle 1,100+ RPMs
As coolant in the engine warms up the computer will start to close IAC Valve, and RPMs should slowly start dropping down
After about 5 minutes idle should be down to 750-800 or so
All of this should happen without you having to touch the gas pedal, just turn the key and engine should start and idle should be up high, then slowly drop over the next 5 minutes or so
If your old spark plugs were "black" then engine was running Rich, and O2 sensor near the engine may also be "black", have a look when it is cold
Engine cold
Startup should have a high idle 1,100+ RPMs
As coolant in the engine warms up the computer will start to close IAC Valve, and RPMs should slowly start dropping down
After about 5 minutes idle should be down to 750-800 or so
All of this should happen without you having to touch the gas pedal, just turn the key and engine should start and idle should be up high, then slowly drop over the next 5 minutes or so
If your old spark plugs were "black" then engine was running Rich, and O2 sensor near the engine may also be "black", have a look when it is cold
#14
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#16
#17
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Yes 40psi would mean that cylinder can't fire, need 100psi minimum
2.5l should have 170psi in each cylinder
Yes running it low on oil is bad, but doesn't cause low compression.
2.5l has a timing belt, rubber, if it slips then engine will barely run and compression would be low.
2.5l may have holes in the timing belt cover to you can check the timing marks to see if it has slipped
Look here: Replacing your timing belt (with pics) - The Ranger Station Forums
Crank pulley on TC, you may have to rotate engine one turn until lined up with TC again to see triangle
Cam pulley Triangles lined up
2.5l should have 170psi in each cylinder
Yes running it low on oil is bad, but doesn't cause low compression.
2.5l has a timing belt, rubber, if it slips then engine will barely run and compression would be low.
2.5l may have holes in the timing belt cover to you can check the timing marks to see if it has slipped
Look here: Replacing your timing belt (with pics) - The Ranger Station Forums
Crank pulley on TC, you may have to rotate engine one turn until lined up with TC again to see triangle
Cam pulley Triangles lined up
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