94 Ford ranger 2.3L starting issues.
 

Not sure if this is the right spot for the question.

Anyways, my starter motor is staying engaged.

changed Solenoid relay, new starter motor, and ignition lock cylinder.

I get 12v DC when the key is in run at my S terminal before and after changing lock cylinder.

I’m assuming it’s a short between the S terminal on the starter motor and relay. any thoughts?

PS, Fixed issues. I bit of miss wiring on my part.

"S" terminal should only have 12v when key is turned to START

Should be a Red/blue stripe wire than comes from the clutch pedal switch(manual trans) or the Neutral switch on drivers side of an automatic trans

So wrong wire or its shorted to 12v somewhere
Does it have 12v with key on and 0v key off?
If so could be ignition switch under the steering column

Hey! Thanks for the input, it’s an auto trans. It gets 12v on start and 0v when key is off

The red/blue wire should just run down to the "S" post on the starter solenoid on top of starter motor
Starter relay on the inner fender is just there as a 12volt distribution post

Starter relay on inner fender has 2 larger posts, in the "old days", 1992, lol, it had the larger battery positive cable on one larger post, with several other wires, and a single larger cable on the other large post that ran down to start motor
Then the red/blue wire on the this relays "S" post activated the relay it would close and connect battery positive to starter motor and it would spin the engine
These types of starter motors didn't have the smaller tube(relay/solenoid) on the top, and no "S" post there

Newer starter motors have the relay/solenoid on the top
These starter motors have the larger cable from battery positive connected directly to them
So they just need to have the smaller red/blue wire attached to their "S" post
But.................
Because these wiring harness's for engine bay were already built, for the next few years they still used the starter relay on the inner fender but in a different way
The one larger post still has Battery positive wire, not a cable any more, and several other wires with it, these other wires are from alternator and to engine fuse box, anything 12volt gets all its power from this one post, except starter motor itself

So what they did was on the other larger post they used a smaller wire, usually black that runs down to the "S" post on the new model starter
So the red/blue wire activates the inner fender relay, which then sends 12v down the black wire to the "S" post and activates the starter relay/solenoid

You can just hook the red/blue wire directly to the starter motors "S" post if its long enough or splice it to the black wire that runs to the starter motors "S" post

There should only be 1 wire/cable on one of the larger posts on inner fender relay, always, but many wires on the other larger post that has battery positive wire/cable on it