Hi, and thanks in advance. I have an '86 2.9. Got the old cracked head thing going. Was going to throw a couple on there, but the price seemed not too far away from getting a rebuilt long block. One thing: The two long studs, one in front and one in the rear, that are part of the intake manifold and plenum assembly... I can't see where those are included in the long block pictures that I'm shopping. Is there a trick to taking these out, besides gutting it with a grip vise, or is that something that should... should be included in a long block. I've sent the question to these builders and haven't received an answer.

Thanks in advance!

tony

 

Welcome to the forum

The studs for intake shouldn't be on a Long Block since it would have no intake?
Long Block should just be rebuilt low end with heads torqued down, may or may not have cover over timing chain, but usually comes with new oil pump

 

Thanks for that. Kinda what I feared. Yes, I do expect just the lower end, heads, and maybe an oil pump on a long block. It just seems that these two studs are set in stone. I did make an attempt to grip-vise them off, but didn't dig in. Do you know the procedure to get them out without ruining them? I don't want to buy a long block and have this issue coming at me. Taking off the flywheel is gonna be enough, as I have to do this all by myself. Thanks in advance.

 

Long socket?

Double nut the stud part?

Intake bolts should not be that tight, maybe 20ft/lb

You can get deep socket extractors, like these:
Not recommending Irwin just the idea of the deep extractor for over tighten bolts with studs attached, these are usually available as singles


To stop engine from turning for flywheel removal just remove spark plugs and insert a wooden dowel, largest one the fits easily, in a spark plug hole and turn the engine until it stops turning, piston can't go higher because dowel is blocking it.
And NO this does NOT hurt anything, lmao when I read that, I don't think people realize just how much pressure is on the top of a piston, rod and crank when a cylinder FIRES, but A LOT MORE than what this will do.
You can also use a long screwdriver, just wrap the tip and shaft with tape so you don't scratch piston and spark plug threads

 

Thanks for that. Okay, I'm probably not explaining it right. I've taken the heads off, the plenum and the intake manifold. Four long bolts came out with the manifold, and two studs remain in the block. A shorter one in the rear, a longer one in the front. When I look up sources for engine blocks, I don't see these two studs shown in any pictures, (and the pictures seem generic). I don't want to order a block and find that I've got an issue with something that requires a machine shop or a superman to remove these two studs.

 

OK, my mistake I see what you are talking about now, been a long while since I did a 2.9l

Picture of the two studs here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...127012.520.390

And here: https://www.therangerstation.com/for...d.php?t=138816

Yes, you would need to remove these, to put on the new block, try double nut first, pipe wrench should grip it, they will have "lock tite" on the lower threads

There are also these, stud extractors:
You slide it down low onto the stud then the wheel slides over to grip the metal shaft as you turn it with socket wrench

 

Ah, thanks. Wasn't sure if I was looking crazy there. Man, that sure helps. Now, it's so dang cold here in Reno now, I have a big concern working in this unheated garage. In my past, I haven't had a lot of luck pulling these kinds of things and I'm very concerned about breaking them. Do you know if there's a resource where I can purchase the two I need, and just put in new ones? And thanks for taking the time to help!

 

You shouldn't have any problem getting them out, like I said earlier they only have about 20ft/lb of torque, they just have lock-tite on the threads so they don't unscrew when nut at the other end is removed.

No can't say I have ever look for those so don't know length, diameter or threads

 

Thank you for all of your help. Much appreciated. Have a great holiday.

tony

 

You'll probably have to heat them as Ford liked using high strength thread locker. Double nut them and get those tight, then heat and remove.




GB :)

 

Thanks for that. What I'd tried a few days ago, and quickly, was using a vise grips and checking out the tightness. No give, so I stopped and decided to ask more experienced guys. Was thinking today that I'd get a new propane canister and heat up the area AROUND the stud, and rent the stud extractor from O'Really's. I do have pipe wrenches. Any input on that would be appreciated.. thank you. Tony

 

Yes heating the block expands the metal around the studs threads, so can break loose some of the grip
If you have compressed air you can then cool the stud after heating the block, this shrinks the stud metal faster than block so breaks it loose further
Exhaust shops add wax(candles) to threads after heating, seems to work quite well on rusty threads, gets sucked in

Pipe wrench will grip better than vise grips

 

I'm happy to report that I have removed the studs. Was careful to get the block warmed up and used a pipe wrench. I appreciate all of the replies and assistance. This is my work truck for our pet-sitting business, poor old girl takes a lot of miles in order to keep my wife's vehicle fresh. I will be looking at long blocks. Right now, I can move forward with removing the engine, knowing I'll be ready.

Much appreciated!

tony

 

Good work

Thanks for the update

Not for nothin', but if you can pull the engine YOU can rebuild it
Socket wrenches and torque wrench is all you need, plus bearing and ring sets, pistons don't need to be replaced unless they are damaged

Also for new heads, on long block or other wise, you want them to be 89TM, not 86TM, castings
The 86TM are the ones that were prone to cracking(used on 1986-1988 Rangers and B2s), this was addressed on the 89TM castings, it didn't eliminate the issue but way less likely to happen unless overheated

You should also get newer Valve Covers as the 86TM and 89TM are not exactly the same fit, seen here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_9_Page.html
old ones will work just usually leak

 

Heating the area AROUND the stud is the standard procedure and common knowledge. Sorry I assumed differently.

You could also search for World Products heads that were made from an updated casting design. Probably hard to find these days.



GB :)

 

Tony,
Where did you find your long block? I found a set of heads for 192.00 each but no long block that cheap. Please let me know.
Thanks,
Rob

 

Rob,

Wish I could help you, but it was a deal that I moved on after the machine shop here in Reno wanted eight hundred and change to rebuild those heads. Reno is a weird place for repair, lemme tell ya. And... I saw some heads online for one-ninety-two, but there was only one available.

Wish I could help more.

Now I see there were more answers about rebuilding that block myself. I'd thought about it, wasn't sure if I had the skill to check for determining if a rebore was necessary. I've had some good luck, bad luck, in just replacing rings on the old size pistols. Thanks for that advice, guys. Will review those posts and also see how the valve covers fly.

tony

 

Thanks for taking the time to send that link, RonD. Checking it out. I really appreciate it.

Tony