3.0 hard to start
#1
3.0 hard to start
Turns over fine, but sometimes takes 3-4 seconds before it fires up. It seems to do it worse when the engine is cold. I just noticed this starting about a week ago.
Also, I noticed today if I turn the key just enough to prime the fuel pump, then turn it back off, then on again, it will fire right up normal. So i guess its not getting enough gas right at first? Once it starts it runs and idles fine, so I wouldn't think the fuel pump would be the culprit. The fuel filter is less than a year old so I wouldn't think thats it either.
Any ideas?
Also, I noticed today if I turn the key just enough to prime the fuel pump, then turn it back off, then on again, it will fire right up normal. So i guess its not getting enough gas right at first? Once it starts it runs and idles fine, so I wouldn't think the fuel pump would be the culprit. The fuel filter is less than a year old so I wouldn't think thats it either.
Any ideas?
#3
#4
No sugestions, but I'm subscribing, since I'm having very similar problems with my Ranger. 2001 3.0L, 119k miles. Mine's primarily slower to start once it's warm and been parked for 10-30 minutes, but I don't know if that's an indicator of the issue, or just a coincidence. So far it's always started on the second attempt.
#5
well after more research around the net, it looks like it very well could be the fuel pump. I always thought a fuel pump just either worked or didn't work. But apparently this is a sign it could be slowly crapping out.
Fairly easy job to replace. I've had the bed off before without much trouble... Just not looking forward to the price tag. Cheapest I've found so far is amazon.com for $298 (genuine motorcraft).
Fairly easy job to replace. I've had the bed off before without much trouble... Just not looking forward to the price tag. Cheapest I've found so far is amazon.com for $298 (genuine motorcraft).
#6
#9
Get the parts from RockAuto... Fast shipping, and super low prices.
Just checked, and it appears that the Motorcraft pump also comes with the fuel level sender... hence the super high price... even at Rockauto, you're paying 260+ bucks... if you don't need a new sender, then don't buy one.
I'd buy the Bosch if I needed a new fuel pump. I've never had trouble with anything they offer. And it's listed as an upgrade... which probably means more fuel flow... which would mean later on, a built 302 swap is a little less work...
And no, I am not affiliated with RockAuto... just a happy customer. I got everything I needed to do the front and rear leaf spring hangers, rear shock mounts, shackles, and shocks all for at least 100 bucks and change less than other places.
Just checked, and it appears that the Motorcraft pump also comes with the fuel level sender... hence the super high price... even at Rockauto, you're paying 260+ bucks... if you don't need a new sender, then don't buy one.
I'd buy the Bosch if I needed a new fuel pump. I've never had trouble with anything they offer. And it's listed as an upgrade... which probably means more fuel flow... which would mean later on, a built 302 swap is a little less work...
And no, I am not affiliated with RockAuto... just a happy customer. I got everything I needed to do the front and rear leaf spring hangers, rear shock mounts, shackles, and shocks all for at least 100 bucks and change less than other places.
Last edited by 1996DangerRanger; 04-23-2012 at 09:33 PM.
#10
I can't even figure out which pump I need. Rockauto has 5 different Motorcraft pumps listed for my truck. How do I know which one to get? It's a 2004 Edge 3.0, extended cab 2-door, auto transmission.
It looks like there are 2 that fit the 125" wheelbase. PFS-527 (includes gasket & seal) or PFS-318 (does NOT include gasket or seal). The one that includes the gasket & seal is cheaper. I don't get it.
It looks like there are 2 that fit the 125" wheelbase. PFS-527 (includes gasket & seal) or PFS-318 (does NOT include gasket or seal). The one that includes the gasket & seal is cheaper. I don't get it.
Last edited by iplayloudly; 04-24-2012 at 12:21 PM.
#11
#12
#13
you would think but thats not always the case. these trucks can run rich and lean so pressure is not always a "feel" issue. easy to check, why not
#14
well i went ahead and got the fuel pump, and it seems to have fixed the problem. Only problem now is, I fk'd up one of the elbow connectors that goes on top of the fuel pump. I've looked all over town for one with no luck. It seems the local stores carry every size connector EXCEPT what I need! Its a 3/8 elbow connector that goes on a 5/16 fuel line. I messed it up where it won't "click" on anymore. I found one on rockauto, so I guess it'll be a few more days until I can actually drive it.
But temporarily I just slid the connector onto the pump (without it clicking) and started up the truck. Of course the pressure blew it off and sprayed gas everywhere, so I put it back on and stuck a wood block on top of it to keep it from moving (the bed is still off). Started it again, then let it sit for a couple hours and came back. Again it started right up. So it appears it is no longer losing pressure/prime.
But temporarily I just slid the connector onto the pump (without it clicking) and started up the truck. Of course the pressure blew it off and sprayed gas everywhere, so I put it back on and stuck a wood block on top of it to keep it from moving (the bed is still off). Started it again, then let it sit for a couple hours and came back. Again it started right up. So it appears it is no longer losing pressure/prime.
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