3.0 please help
 

Hello,

When I cold start my 99 ranger it knocks pretty bad but goes away after about 5 minutes of driving. Also when I first start it i hear a squeeking noise, and ive already changed the belt. After reading many threads on this forum im begging to think its my camshaft synchro or position censor. My question is, what is the difference between the two? And where is the cps? If anyone could help me out, or show me a guide on how to change these out that would be great.

99 3.0 100k

that sensor is also the oil pump drive. it somewhat looks like a distributor but has a sensor on the top. this is probley your problem, its very common on 3.0's!

My 2000 did that at first and now I get that noise almost all the time. It runs really rough sometimes until I just floor it and blow the crap out of it and then it runs great again and will sometiems throw missfire codes. The 99 and 00 have the same 3.0 dont they? I dont think there are any differences but you know how Ford loves to change things.

change your cam syncro and put a new cps in, this is what caused the 3.0 in my 98 to blow and lock up back in may.

did yours have the symptoms that we have described? My engine has 239K on it and im sure replacing those wont hurt me.

The synchronizer is the housing and gear drive that fits where a conventional distributor would have been on an earlier version of the engine. The camshaft position (CMP) sensor is mounted on top of it. As mentioned before, a total failure of the synchronizer means that the oil pump loses its drive. Engine time.

When the synchronizer is removed, the CMP must be retimed to the engine, similar to timing a distributor. A special tool will locate the synchronizer drive in the correct position when #1 is at TDC, compression stroke.

Be sure to get the right kind. Ford changed the CMP from a 3-wire Hall Effect sensor to a 2-wire Variable Reluctance sensor around 1999.

Although they vary from engine to engine, this is generally what it looks like when removed.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/at...ntid=577&stc=1

Hey thanks alot guys, I really appreciate it.

Is this something that is DIY friendly, or do I need to have a mechanic do it?

I would think it would be a little bit of a pain finding TDC on cylinder #1. The theory is easy, but probably just time consuming.

I changed my cam sensor and syncro last night. Took me about an hour and a half and it was done. Took the plenum off for better access and didnt time anything, just made sure to put the new one back just as the old one was and it runs so much better. I have more power now and it runs so much smoother.

Should I change both of them or just the sensor?

I was told just the sensor...

If it's "chirping", replace the entire synchro assembly (See RWenzing's photo above).

You may want to do some searching; I recall a series of threads relating that some aftermarket brands (Dorman?) had quality issues (chintzy washer). It may be prudent to get this part from Ford, despite the higher cost. If it fails (gear strips), you lose oil pressure and the engine may seize.

My camshaft postion sensor went out around 80,000 miles on my 98 3.0, locked the motor & and the tranny...$5200, re-built engine and tranny later I was riding again, I would def get them replaced now before she blows.

Mine isn't chirping, it isn't making any noises at all actually. So should I just replace the sensors as a preventive maintenance measure?

I would. Cheap insurance.

Awesome, thanks Christian.

I've looked them up on rockauto and it looks like my part would be:

MOTORCRAFT Part # WPT552
Black; 2 Leads

$27.79 $0.00 $27.79

Does this sound right?

Not sure. Check it on Motorcraft's website.

The only other option I have is:

MOTORCRAFT Part # WPT759 {#3U2Z14S411SLA}
Round Terminals; Black; 2 Leads

$22.79 $0.00 $22.79

I'll try to figure out the difference in the two.

Here is a good thread on replacing it:

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/for...d.php?t=226230