3.0 Turns Over But Won't Start
 

Hey guys, hate to add another "truck won't start thread" but none of the threads i read seemed to be describing my problem.

It's been going on for the past month or so, I'd have trouble starting the truck in the morning, it'd idle rough, I'd give it gas and it'd sputter and pop, then idle fine. Then it began to get worse, stalling randomly, and taking quite a few cranks to start up.

Well today i come out of work and it would not start...it cranked and turned over but wouldn't catch. It seems like it flooded out as well, so I know it's getting fuel...any suggestions? (has 130k +) Thanks in advanced.

fuel injection doesnt really flood you either have a spark problem or a fuel pressure problem.Check your fuel pressure at startup to see how much you are getting might be a bad fuel pump

ok, so i did a pressure check and turns out I'm only getting about 10psi when the truck is in the on position (not running) and gets 65psi when it's running, if i give it gas it'll get up to 70-75psi

So I'm guessing the fuel pump is going bad, correct?

Bump...not tryin to be pushy, just want a definite answer :nervous:

check for spark seems to be a spark issue fuel pressure seems about right

check the cam position sensor in the back of the motor these seem to go bad around the miles your truck has

wouldn't the cam sensor throw off a code?

not always check your coil and your wires

It should start without the cam sensor, but it will not start with a bad crank sensor.

Just replaced the coil pack a month or 2 ago...plugs and wires were replaced about 2 years ago...i checked them and re-gapped em about 2 months ago as well

interesting, didn't know that. I'll try it next time I start it.

Sooo i think i made a discovery...first off, where is the cam sensor located, i unplugged what i thought was the cam sensor, but kinda don't think it was and just wanna verify. Whatever I unplugged was in the lower right rear side of the engine. A grey plug that runs to the firewall and the intake manifold. so i doubt its the cam sensor lol...

ANYWAYS.

I was leaving from college this morning (drove there with no problem - 20min drive) and the truck started fine. I got about 20 feet and she just straight up dies on me. get out start messing around with it, nothing happens, still won't start. Turns over, catches and then seems like it just looses it and stalls out all at once. I finally decided to bleed the fuel system into a paper towel, and she starts right up, wtf?

is the pressure supposed to drop after the truck sits for a while so that it can start or something? damn...i wish i could find my effing haynes manual. I know very little about the fuel system.

Sounds to me like your fuel pump is going....Mine went at 90k same symptoms. Fuel pressure is supposed to build to well over 10 with key on ignition off. When you bled the fuel line and turned it over the pump did its job. It may or may not happen again. For some reason I have noticed in almost all domestic vehicles I have had the pleasure to come accross the pump goes between 100 and 150k miles. Chevy's, Fords....

interesting...thanks for the insight, i had a feeling it was supposed to be over 10psi in the on position...would have looked in my haynes manual, but lost the damn thing lol....guess I'll be replacing the pump

I had this same issue in my 88 XLT, turns out my rotor in the distributor was fried.
I replaced it and wa la ,she fired right up.

He has EDIS, so he doesn't have a distributor.

Oh yeah that's right.

the fuel pump has its own ground at the battery if it loses its ground it will give you problems such as this until it just stops running the pump, Have had this happen on 2 explorers and 2 rangers in the past.

So i think i found the problem. Seems like after bleeding the fuel system a few times it runs like a champ! I must have gotten air in the system when I changed the fuel filter a while back. I havnt had the problem for a little over a month now, so yay!

thanks for all the help!

Crank but floods out.
 

I have a 1995 Ranger with a 3.0 Liter as well. Someone stated that an EFI will not flood. Sorry guys but I have one that is. The only way to get it to start is by pulling the fuel pump relay and letting it crank until it clears its self. Putting the pedal to metal does not work. I have changed the injectors, coil, wires, plugs, cam position sensor, fuel pressure regulator and the crank position sensor. The fuel pressure is 40 psi at all time, put will go to Zero very fast when the key is turned off. Any ideas every thing is new no codes.

Does this hold true with a 2.3l? Where is the ground located? My truck wouldn't start last night and it would just crank fine but wouldn't start.

My truck has 180k+ on it and I am almost positive the fuel pump is probably original to the truck...

-Nigel

1994 3.0 ranger wont start
 

i have new plugs and wires and it just turns over and over but no start? i can here the fuel pump kick on and i have plenty of spark.

crank no start
 

I've done replaced crank sensor ,cam sensor new pcm new timing chain rebuilt alternator new cool pack new fuel pump an filter I'm fuel to the valve stim on fuel rail I'm getting spark to the plugs I checked all the fuses an relays new temp sensors one for gauge an for pcm all it does is slight cough when I shit starting fluid when I changed timing chain it started let it sit for a day an it started sense what am I missing

If you spray fuel into the engine and it doesn't start then you either have no/low compression or no spark, engines are pretty simple
Electronics make engines more reliable not more complicated

They still just need:
fuel mixed with air
enough compression to vaporize the fuel, 100+ psi
spark to ignite vaporized fuel, spark needs to be close to the right time or no fire, you can test with old style timing light

Completely blocked exhaust can cause a no start, i.e. the old potato up the tail pipe trick, this prevents fuel from being sucked into the engine, so nothing for the spark to ignite
You can test vacuum while cranking engine, should be 2" at least