Hello, I am ready to put a new engine in my 2000 XLT. The current and original engine is a 3.0 V(flex fuel). I have found a good buy on a 2000 3.0 U(non-flex fuel)engine. Has anyone ever done this installation? If so, is it difficult or not worth considering?

 

Here's the difference, the chambers are "heart" shaped in the flex fuel engine.

Ford Ranger II 3.0 liter Engines

Both will have to have the same trans of course.

Before you put in the other engine (non-flex fuel), change out the oil pan gasket.
You may even want to consider putting in a new oil pump while you have the pan off.

If the pan gasket isn't leaking yet, it soon will on a 17 year old engine _ they had a tendency to leak.
The new Felpro gaskets have been improved.

Make sure your cam shaft synchronizer isn't worn out and if you're still running the metal DPFE sensor, replace it with the plastic one.

Also replace the crank seal while you're in there.

Best do the slave cylinder too for the clutch if it's a manual.

You can put a 5 litre out of an Explorer, but a lot more work.

Many complain of the 3 litre being gutless, but I just rebuilt mine and it has lots of zip.

 

Thanks Jeff R! Are the sensors the same in both engines?

 

Should be, unless Ford changed something with in that year.

Check out the camshaft position sensor, Rock Auto shows either a 2 or 3 pin sensor, but it doesn't really matter.
If it is different you can simply remove the whole synchronizer and match it to your wiring harness.
The mechanical end of it is the same that fits in the block.

Everything else should just match up.

Take lots of photos and if you don't have the oil deflector that keeps the oil from running all over the starter, now's the time to put that in before the engine goes back into the bay.

You can put in in after the fact, but the engine mount gets in the way of installation once the engine is back in.
You have to lift the engine off its mounts to put the nut on _ very little clearance.

Do you know how to set up the synchronizer, if you have to change it out ?

At any rate it may be best to remove it while lowing the engine in place so you don't bang it on the fire wall as you lower the engine in.
It can also come in contact with the firewall depending on how steep the engine goes back into the bay.
It's not that hard to put it in after the fact once the engines in place, not like the 4 litre.

And BTW, what's wrong with your old engine ?
My rebuild cost was 3400.00 Canadian _ for everything _ new valves, guides, pistons, bearings...
Everything checked over and dealt with as necessary.
Everything was balanced too, crank, flywheel, checked for cracks... etc.

What are you paying for the replacement ?
A short block and head rebuild can be a better way to go.

One from an auto wrecker can be a gamble unless you know the history.

If you do replace the oil pan gasket, you can remove some bearing caps and inspect the crank/rods too.
If the oil strainer is partially blocked on the pump, then that's a bad sign as well.

EDIT:
When you remove the camshaft sensor, and you find what looks like rust on the inside of the synchronizer _ it's had the biscuit.
That rust is actually "bushing dust" from the lack of oil in the synchronizer.
Replace it with the Ford Motorcraft one, the aftermarket ones don't last.

I take the sensor off mine every 6 months to a year and squirt some Tri-flow in there, being carful not to get it all over the place.

 

I overheated the old engine, a flexfuel V, due to an unseen radiator leak, it over heated at a place where I could not pull over. I had to run a little over a mile before I could safely pull over. This engine has 185K on it.

I found a U engine at a salvage yard. I can get the engine and trans for $800 US. This engine if from a truck owned by a well-respected local mechanic I know. It was involved in an intersection collision with the right from being the point of impact. I talked to the mechanic. He thinks the engine has about 80K on it. I will check the odometer on this truck to see the mileage for sure. The main concern for me is that the engine has been stored for 8 or 9 years in the back of the truck under a camper shell. So your advice about seals and gaskets is apt. I have a place and the people to do the change. Please note: this is current plan and I am still not committed to anything.

 

You will also need to swap the injectors over, or just swap the whole intake over, that way all the plugs/connectors will match, they should anyway, but will FOR SURE if you swap intakes

Flex Fuel computer and injectors were different, injectors were "larger", higher "pounds" of fuel on FF engines.
Ethanol, E85, requires more fuel to flow into the engine for same amount of air, it is a Richer mix than gasoline, so larger injectors were used and the computers software is different so it can use the larger injectors for gasoline operation

 

Which brings me to the question of replacing the heads only on a FF engine with Non E85 heads? WIll the computer run it if i have the other intake, etc? I have everything from both versions. I just don't know about the computer or timing.

 

Welcome to the forum

The injectors are larger on FF engines and the computer is programmed for the larger injectors, so you need to use the FF injectors
If you have gas only computer then you use the smaller gas only injectors
There is no timing changes

The heads don't matter, they have a slightly different chamber size, gas only is 49cc, FF is 47cc, but people have been swapping these engines and heads around since 1996 with no issues either way
I would NOT run 2 different heads on one engine, lol

You can use which ever head SET you want

 

RonD thank you for the reply. That's great news. Gas heads coming right up. What would be the advantage of running the gas only intake VS the other? Unless I misunderstood a previous comment on this thread Forgive me as i do not have the "other" intake in front of me. Shes a gem btw. {the truck) Burnt !@# orange, 5spd manual. roll down windows and the AC still rocking. i understand that there may be a bolt pattern difference or something to that effect but i wouldn't know yet. Suprised that alot of the design of the Ford Head did'n't change for the past 40 freaking years. :O

 

Intakes are the same for gas only and FF, just easier to swap over the whole intake with fuel rail and injectors, than to remove and swap just the 6 injectors

 

About to replace my 3.0 engine.
Any tips?

 

Pull and replace the entire engine and trans at once, mating the trans after the fact is a real bitch in situ.

Get a Ford rear engine seal, it's double lipped, and drive it all the way home, not just flush with the block. Put a little sealant where the bottom bearing cap meats the block.
Use "The Right Stuff" sealant, not RTV.
Permatex® The Right Stuff® Black 1 Minute Gasket Maker, 5 OZ - Permatex

Don't use any sealant on the pan gasket though, follow the installation instructions.

Get a FORD slave cylinder if it's a manual.