2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

3.0 V6 Faulty water pump now white smoke

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Old 03-12-2012
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3.0 V6 Faulty water pump now white smoke

I have a 92 Ranger extended cab 2 wheel drive with a 3.0. A few days ago the water pump went out and the belt came off. I stopped as soon as I realized it, it couldn't have been more than a minute or two. I got it home and found out it was the water pump, so I got a new water pump and put it on and a new thermostat. I drove it today and it seemed fine until I got in it to come home, I noticed white smoke. When I got home I checked the oil level and overflow tank for the radiator. The antifreeze in the overflow looks dirty, brownish. It was fresh antifreeze I had put in it. Also the oil was over the full line, It was almost at the full line about a week ago when I topped it off. The book stated that I needed to put sealant on the one bolt when I put the water pump back on, I put sealant on that bolt, but I don't know now if that may be my problem, I used the same thread sealant that we use for gas and water pipes, the guy at the autoparts store told me that would work. If that didn't work and didn't seal it up could that be causing the oil and antifreeze mix and white smoke or could I have done worse damage? If that could be the problem, could that be fixed by using an automotive thread sealant? Thanks for any advice on this problem.
 
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Old 03-13-2012
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Unfortunately, judging from your description, it appears that you have a blown head gasket.
 
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Old 03-13-2012
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That was what I was afraid of. I wasn't sure why that bolt needed thread sealant, but I was hopeful that by some off chance that that could cause my problem. Is it a hard job to do a head job on the 3.0's or would it be best to just replace the engine? I found a few used engines for $300 to $500. Thanks for the reply.
 
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Old 03-13-2012
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Does sound like a bad head gasket. I wouldn't look for another motor till you at least have this one checked out. If the heads are still good and only the gaskets are bad. Then it shouldn't cost you too much for gaskets and new head bolts. That is if you are doing the work. If you take it to a shop they might kill you on the labor.

Hopefully it's only the gaskets that went bad, (and you were able to shut off the motor before warping the heads.) This will be a good time to really clean up your motor.

Everything depends on your mechanic skills and having the proper tools.
 
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Old 03-13-2012
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I am usually pretty good at working on anything I own and I have a decent amount of tools. I have another vehicle to drive while I work on it, too, so it won't be a rush. Now that I know that is most likely what it is, I will see about having it tested to make absolutely sure. How would I know if the gaskets are all that went bad or if I warped the heads? Thanks again for the help.
 
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Old 03-13-2012
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Heads have to come off and checked...
 
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Old 03-13-2012
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Thanks. I looked through my manual a bit ago about taking the heads off and looked up a machine shop in the area. Looks like if that is the issue it shouldn't be to bad. Thanks again for all of your help.
 
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Old 03-15-2012
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Jump on in there, keeping the manual close at hand and you'll do fine. If the machine shop doesn't find any warpage you're not going to break the bank too bad. Let us know how it all works out.
 
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Old 03-15-2012
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I just did mine, took a day to do it. It isnt a bad job at all. mine cost 90 bucks per side.
 
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Old 03-15-2012
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Thanks. That doesn't sound to bad at all. I was talking with someone today and he said while I have so much off the engine I should go ahead and replace the time chain. One less thing to worry about later. I see I can buy the chain and gears for $10 more than just the chain. Is there anything that I should replace while I have the truck apart? Anything else that is known to go bad on rangers. Thanks
 
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Old 03-22-2012
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you could do a port/polish job, cam synchros go out in this engine ALOT.
 
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Old 12-16-2020
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Head gasket or what?

I know this is going to sound a little hokey and almost everyone will tell you that it’s a waste of time and money that additive don’t work however I will just tell you my little experience end it might just save you a bunch of money and time. Recently I had similar issues with occasional temperature gage run up to the near boiling and up & down temp. I replaced clutches thermostats and a bunch of parts but I still had the problem. Finally my friend and parts guy told me about K SEAL ULTIMATE.
Google it and read the reviews you will be amazed at how many people have had stellar results as I have a bar bar all your stuff and it’s not cheap. Cost about 30 bucks a bottle. I was pretty sure I at least had a head gasket leak if not a cracked head. in either case the stuff is supposed to work. And they say it is a permanent seal the reviews are by people who have had it in the motor for multiple years with no further problems. I put it in my motor about three months ago and have had no further issues with over heating. Now admittedly I wasn’t blowing white smoke so I don’t think I was getting as much water in the combustion chambers as you might be but like you I didn’t run it long enough to hurt the engine. So for 30 bucks it’s worth a try man. It’s easy to use no big deal. By-the-way, it seals more than head gaskets...
Larry

[img]blob:https://www.ranger-forums.com/18d2c1cf-9e6d-430c-9e97-57e32471ca01[/img]
 
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Old 12-17-2020
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Why do you sound like an infomercial? This is an eight year old thread.
those sealants will seal up more things than head gaskets. Like all the little passages in heater cores and radiators. And its lots of fun to get out of the block after it finally dies from not just fixing it right in the first place.
 
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Old 12-17-2020
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You feel better now?
 
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