I hadn't run it in a week (since getting it) i fired it up no problems, sat for a minute, then left for a relatively short journey.

Came back to see a 7 inch diameter patch of "oil" on the driveway that i swear wasn't there the whole time it'd been parked up.

Checked PS fluid and noticed it had gone down to the bottom of the filler neck (i know this was at the right level as i'd checked and corrected it (from being high) a few days ago)

Now, i ran the engine again before finishing for the night, as i was flushing coolant (another story) and this morning, i saw the exact same size pool of oil under the truck (parked in different place)

The location is on the drivers side, roughly in line with the further point back of the front wheel, and in from the side roughly as far as the PS fluid reservoir.

Now that puts it further back than the reservoir, but i couldn't get under it this morning to see where it's coming from - it seems a set amount, same size pool, it's clearly finished creeping, and it's from the truck running, there is no more (that i can see) leaking out.

I would guess, but cannot tell, that this is PS fluid (ATF)

Question is, where is it coming from?
Why is it a set amount (didn't matter if truck had been running a minute, or 15 minutes)

I can check the PS fluid reservoir again tonight to see if it's back down at the bottom of the neck again, i will also get under it and see if there is a clear drip path to/from anything.

 

The fluid will be red in colour of course and when compared to regular light amber coloured motor oil, the difference is quite obvious.
ATF fluid will smell different too _ way different.
Sounds like you have a leak in the power steering circuit.

Check your return line that goes into the reservoir, make sure it's not leaking there.
It's down low at the back, you almost need a mirror to see it.

Other sources of leaks are the font seal, but the belt would be oily, and the main reservoir seal around the unit itself.
The plastic reservoir is sealed around the metal part of the unit with this huge O-ring.

Check to see if your high pressure line is snug, it takes an 18mm wrench.

Here's a video to watch.
It's for a 94 F150, but they are all very similar.

Ironically I just rebuilt mine, not easy to do, but doable.
Getting the pulley off and on was not fun, I didn't want to spend money on the special tool for that.

There's also another O-ring pointed out on my screen shot that seals that nut to the plastic housing _ that can leak as well.
My kit had the wrong one in it, so I had to source the right one, that one is a metric size.

 

Good stuff, thanks, glad you're still around on the forums to help :)

Gonna get stuck into all this tonight, pump is noisy as all heck, and it has a milkyness to it, though otherwise fairly red. I'm wondering if someone topped it off with PS fluid instead.

Assuming i find nothing too bad, i will perform a full flush, emptying the rack too, i've for some Valvoline Mercon to refill it with.

 

It's noisy because it's low on fluid, the milkyness is from air churning up with the oil under pressure.
Avoid running the pump when it's low on fluid, it can and will over heat _ keep it topped up.
The oil running through the system is cooled by the small matrix by the rack, so just like your trucks cooling system can over heat from lack of water/anti freeze, the hydraulic system can over heat too due to lack of oil.

 

Not sure how it would be low on oil, it only dropped to the base of the neck, whilst too low, it wasn't out.

The milkyness isn't air, at least that I can see, it's like a layer on top. I'll check more closely tonight.

 

Ok, pretty certain i've found the leak, and the reason why it kinda doesn't do anything until the engine is running.

What i casually thought was a fuel filter, looks to be the PS filter, it's pipes were zip tied in a way that allowed it to rub against the bottom corner of the PS pump, i think it's worn through.

 

I don't have that on mine.
Odd looking thing.

 

Well, i ran to NAPA 5 mins before closing, and whilst waiting for them to get the coolant pipes, i grabbed some more Mercon and asked for a PS filter - picture was exactly the same as you see in my picture above.

There was an alternative filter available which was much longer and was inserted into something, i guess another model?

So shoved newspaper under where it's very very slowly weeping from, i'll pull this all tomorrow and flush the system at the same time i replace this filter (and tie the dang thing away from stuff, like the PS pump!!)

 

Bad news!

Unconfirmed as of now, but i can't see it turning out another way :(

Whole system emptied, filter removed, which was installed with the wrong direction of flow :(

Re-routed some hosing to allow the new reversed filter to sit more naturally and not touch the pump/reservoir corner (as it had before) or the electrical trunking opposite it.

However, having cleaned off the old filter, it's pretty clear there is no hole in it, only the concertina-like ribs have worn away.
But, rubbing my finger against the corner of the plastic reservoir base on the pump, i can feel a very distinct grove in the plastic there, nothing coming out currently, but i bet once the system is under pressure, it'll start pissing oil out there :(

 

1980-2004 FORD MUSTANG POWER STEERING PUMP RESERVOIR | eBay

http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools...ller-installer

This is the only source I could find (so far) that just sells the reservoir.

At any rate, you are going to have to pull the pump once you are certain that is where it leaks.
Rock Auto lists everything else except the reservoir _ go figure.

That area is not under any pressure of course, but once the oil gets warm, then it is probably thin enough to leak out _ if in fact that's where it's leaking.

The kits are not that expensive to get the pulley, they're around 30 or 40 bucks.
You may even be able to rent one, but being so cheap, maybe not.

I had to take the rad off to use my puller, it's quite large.
With the proper puller, you may not have to.
Use a thick piece of cardboard or that cheap 1/8 door skin plywood to protect the rad.

 

Bad news confirmed :(

Setup everything ready to fill coolant, fired her up, PS pump was nice and quiet, until things got hotter, then it started making it's noise in the background and touching that area of the reservoir confirmed my worst fears, fresh ATF came back on my fingers :(


The pump is also very noisy still, not quite as bad when just sitting there as it was before the fluid drain, but as soon as you try the steering, it's really loud.

NAPA also don't sell just the reservoir, the pump on it's own is ~$41 and with a reservoir attached, it's $52, though order in.

Based on the pump noise and the new price, i'm thinking it's probably a good idea to just do the whole pump??


Thanks for searching and coming up with those links, i appreciate it - I do have questions on the puller and the overall job of replacing the PS pump.


Just checked Autozone near me and they have a reman pump& res for $46, in stock, additionally, one of the tool reviews said save money and just rent it, so looks like i *can* rent and save

Now, you said about removing the rad? I really can't do that as i just filled fresh coolant - depending on this puller, maybe i don't need it.
I saw someone say use the puller to install the pulley on the new pomp too, maybe i can remove the pump from the vehicle to do both operations?


Finally, is there anything anywhere like a how to for this? I'm going to have to do it, but i've never done one before, or used a puller.

 

You need the puller, you can't remove the old pump with out taking the pulley off.
You can't get at the bolts side ways very well and even if you could get them loose, the housing is too small to allow the removal with the pulley in place.

It's pretty simple...


You will be reusing your old pulley on the new pump.
Make sure and lube the shaft and pulley with heavy wheel bearing grease when pressing it back on.
There's special grease for this, but wheel bearing grease will be fine.

If there is enough room with the rad in place, just be sure to protect it as I said earlier.

You'll be fine.

And P.S.

If you have to remove the rad, it isn't the end of the world.
Save the coolant in a clean container and be prepared for more to come when the bottom rad hose comes off.
It won't take all the saved coolant initially, the air in the system will work out on it's own as Ron said.
Refill the system from the rad cap to the top and keep the plastic reservoir full.
Keep on eye on the reservoir level after 2 or 3 drive cycles, eventually all the coolant that came out will be back in the system.
The air will naturally work itself out.
Top up the reservoir as necessary, but after a while you won't have to do that either.

About the noise and white stuff, that's caused by air in the system, but for only 46 bucks, replacing the pump is a good idea.

 

I found a guide on the 2.3 motor, looks pretty close actually, as well as a video on the 4l, not so close, and then someone who already did the work, but pointed out the only other things to do.

Seems not to bad at all actually, and that puller video is very helpful, thank you. Now to work out when i have time and what AZ's rental period is.

 

Well i had to fit this all in around other plans for the weekend and stupid hot weather for working on cars outside.

Pulley puller was slow going and hard work, there was enough room for spanners/wrenches, but not a ratchet.

Pump does not "just come out backwards" - it wants to kick scream and complain too.

High pressure line doesn't want to unscrew from the pump, but the pump insert for it does..... (had to remove that and then remove the insert from the line after the pump came out)

Taking the pump out and putting it back in again twice because the bolts seem to be a different pitch is really annoying. (they were just refinished holes that needed threads cleaning)

So. Much. Oil.

It's everywhere, well, except the floor, but all the wiring looms, the steering column, everything in there.

Actually used nitrile gloves at the end to protect my tools from my oily hands/arms....

Anyway, gotta put the pulley on tomorrow night and attach the high pressure line (low is done) hopefully it doesn't give me anymore problems, looks like a weird looking white plastic washer - pump came with a rubber o-ring, but i don't think that will fit anywhere.

Old pump does have two 'saw marks' in the reservoir from the filter rubbing against it for so long, that *is* where it's leaking from.

 

I use this stuff with a plant mister and a 1.5 inch brush just hose off when you're done.
Works great and it's pink !

Glad you got it done, although you may have had a messy time, seems like it was a success.

Don't throw the old pump away, you can sell it for parts or use it to buy a reconditioned one for a core charge.

And yeah, the pulley is on there, I used a huge crescent wrench to get mine off.
It goes on easier then coming off.
The new pumps shaft is clean and you can lubricate the surfaces _ makes things a bit easier.
You can get a small container of high pressure grease for the job, but ordinary grease works OK too.

 

Hmm, never used anything other than general cleaner (simple green-like stuff) in engine bays, that looks interesting.

Yeah, hardest parts are done now, though in the back of my mind, getting the pulley lined up is a possible concern.

I got the pump from Autozone, so i need to return the old one for a core charge, whole thing only cost me $46 though!

You recommend grease to put the pulley on? rather than, say, Kroil?

 

Kroil is just a penetrating oil, something like this with silicon _ nice and slippery.
Any oil that's too "light" will just get pushed out of the way under an interference fit.

 

Odd, that seems kind of counter to me, but i can use grease either way - i'm not really familiar with interference fits of this kind, wouldn't lubricant allow less friction for the pulley to grip (during operation)
I don't suppose that the pulley stops in the right place when it's all the way on?

 

Yes, the pulley stops in the right place.
It reaches the end of its travel when it comes flush with the end of the shaft.
You will know when this happens, it will suddenly stop pushing on _ you simply won't be able to turn the nut on the puller while installing.

It's a tight fit, I'm guessing about 2 thou _ don't worry, the grease, or any lubricant will not cause the pulley to slip or come off.

 

Oh thank you!

I made a mental alignment of where it should go onto, but that it actually just has to go all the way on is a big help, thanks! :)

 

Ahhhhhh!!!!!!!!

How the hell are you supposed to hold the pulley still, the whole time i've been tightening it onto the pump, it's trying to rotate.

I wedged it in place with a socket extension through a hole, but having gotten it 3/4 of the way on, it just broke the hole open in the pulley!

 

The tool threads into the centre shaft which are right hand standard threads.
Once that's threaded into the shaft all the way it's held in place with a wrench (don't know the size)
You use that wrench to stop the pulley/shaft from turning.

The pulley is pushed on with the left hand threads of the puller (or pusher if you like).

Looks like you need a new pulley now, even it looks usable, you can't use it because it may be cracked and it may fly apart when driving.

The pulley is not meant to take any force at all.

I'll see if I can find a video on how to install the pulley.

EDIT:

The puller you have is like in the video, some have a different set up where the actual business part is left hand thread so you're not unthreading the puller from the shaft when you start to crank on it.
I had the same problem.
I just kept tightening the puller into the pump shaft as tight as it would go until it finally stopped turning and went home.

EDIT:
Looks like I was wrong about the left hand threads, but it would make a lot more sense to have the threads left handed so the puller doesn't unscrew itself from the pump shaft.
Here's a tutorial where the guy uses a wooden dowel _ which I don't agree with.

http://www.theprojectasylum.com/auto...ngpumppg3.html

Another video _ I wish I could come and help you.

 

At least the pulley's are cheap.
Mine is made from Bakelite or some sort of plastic, it would break for sure if I put any load on it.
Strap wrench would probably work.

Sorry to hear you're problems, I know it can be very frustrating at times !

1999 FORD RANGER 3.0L V6 Power Steering Pump Pulley | RockAuto

 

Hey, thanks for continuing to help me with this, i really appreciate it. It's been pretty frustrating to know what i need to do, how to do it, only to come up against some seriously stupid crap in the process.

So yes, the pulley is "minorly" broken, and i did wonder how off center this would throw it's balance, you confirmed it, crap, it's sat there 75% on right now.

Thankfully, it looks like Autozone (where i need to go back to, more on that in a moment) stock that same Dorman unit for $10 and the website says it's in stock at my store.

The puller is fine and works fine, the rental unit i have is a previously used puller - however upon unboxing the um, pusher? part tonight, it's not so well, looks somewhat abused.
The nut partially sinks into the flat used to sit against the pulley, it also sits in at a slight angle, which isn't good, but i tried to compensate - but from the two links you posted (which i found in my, "F^&* it, i'm going back inside" moment), it seems that nut should have a type of bearing inside - this one is destroyed and barely turns with no pressure, grating away.

I agree on the dowel usage, there actually isn't anything to brace the pulley against in reality, the socket extension i used was really shade-tree and i wasn't comfortable with it at all. Reverse thread would have made way more sense.

So short version, i'm taking the kit back for a replacement as i need a good pusher, i also need a new pulley..... Maybe they stock that Dorman shifter kit for the same price as online.....

It's hitting 100 tomorrow, no truck for AC, motorcycle isn't so great in that heart, about 20 miles is the limit.

 

If the puller is abused, and it isn't sitting square on the pulley, then you're going to have problems. Even more so if there is supposed to be a bearing in there and it's missing !
If no one is greasing the threads or the hard contact surfaces on the puller, then it will wear, especially if it's a Chinese one made from crappy steel.
That's the problem with rental tools, no one gives a **** as long as they get there's done.
I generally don't like people for that reason, self centred never thinking of anyone else.

Yeah, the weather is going to get hot, I'm just above you on the Southern tip of Vancouver Island, you can see the air flow on the satellite pushing up from Mexico, that's where all the heat is.
I don't like the heat, when it gets that hot, I can't really do anything and it's supposed to last for a week !

Auto Zone should give you a new pulley because their tool buggered.