Common upgrades?
you should only be changing your filter when it is dirty, or clogged, or damaged. If the filter is in good shape, why change it? If it is really old then the environment may have taken its toll on it as well.
disagree, the EPA standards are tested on a vehicle with each combination of motor and transmissions, the rear diff will make a difference on top of that, aswell as added weight. the EPA standards are also quite in accurate... i have recorded up to 23 mpg where as EPA says my truck should only get 17ish on the hiway...
4.10's will decrease your hiway mileage, but increase your city mileage
4.10's will decrease your hiway mileage, but increase your city mileage
because your granny probably drives like a granny, and you being a 16 year old goof probably pins it all the time, which makes up for the compensation of the gears... buddy. i brought up the epa, because someone was talking about stock specs, which is where those ratings come from, buddy!
okay i'm not gonna try and argue with idiots. if i'm getting 16 mpg and 21 on the highway i cant be flooring it dumbass you cant floor it all the time in any vehicle and expect to get the mpg that i get jeez learn a little about cars before you say something
You do understand how gear ratio works right? How it effects RPM at cruising speeds?
So I'll break it down to a very simple question:
Which vehicle gets better mileage, #1 that is spinning at 2,150 RPM at 60 MPH or #2 that is spinning at 2,350 RPM at 60 MPH? This example used the same truck with the only difference being the rear end ratio, your actual RPM at 60 may vary from this given different tire size and 5-spd instead of the A4LD.
So it's very simple, you will always be at least 200 RPM above me and you think that is more efficient for gas mileage?
My 94 came from an elderly man who drove it "like grandpa", at 130K the diff had never cracked open (Fluid was completely sludged), transmission fluid and filter never changed (It actually was dark brown coming out), the rear shocks are still OE, the fuel filter was also OE (The fuel that came out of the filter was orange) and the air filter was completely plugged. I was lucky that he even changed the oil and it wasn't like this guy didn't know better, he had changed about everything in the 67 VW Beetle he had. I was down right surprised this truck still drove.
At the end of the day there are MANY things that effect gas mileage, other than just gear ratio and you are probably more on top of balancing all that than your grandad. In fact, I guarantee you that your grandad's tires at sitting in the upper 20 PSI range at the moment.
well my grandpa's ranger is maintained by me so the tire pressures are always at 35 psi just like mine me and him both have the same size tires. i know my pinion gear has to spin 4.10 times before the ring gear spins once. i'm not stupid i realize that. what i'm saying is that yall have a hard time under standing is that my ranger has a 3.0 my grandpas ranger has a 3.0 i have a 5 speed auto tranny my grandpa has a 5 speed tranny i have a 4.10 rearend gear ratio grandpa has a 3.73 rear end i have a k&n air filter and so does my grandpa. the only difference between my ranger and his is that i have a flow master muffler in place of the stock muffler. thats it, we both get the same gas mileage so what i been trying to get at is that gear's may not have as big of an effect on gas mileage as yall think. i'm 20 years old yall must be blind i'm not 16 years old. unless my truck has some sort of programing on it that misteriously gives it better fuel economy i dont know last i checked ford never changed anything with the 3.0 since it came out besides ignition and the intake manifold but none the less.
well my grandpa's ranger is maintained by me so the tire pressures are always at 35 psi just like mine me and him both have the same size tires. i know my pinion gear has to spin 4.10 times before the ring gear spins once. i'm not stupid i realize that. what i'm saying is that yall have a hard time under standing is that my ranger has a 3.0 my grandpas ranger has a 3.0 i have a 5 speed auto tranny my grandpa has a 5 speed tranny i have a 4.10 rearend gear ratio grandpa has a 3.73 rear end i have a k&n air filter and so does my grandpa. the only difference between my ranger and his is that i have a flow master muffler in place of the stock muffler. thats it, we both get the same gas mileage so what i been trying to get at is that gear's may not have as big of an effect on gas mileage as yall think. i'm 20 years old yall must be blind i'm not 16 years old. unless my truck has some sort of programing on it that misteriously gives it better fuel economy i dont know last i checked ford never changed anything with the 3.0 since it came out besides ignition and the intake manifold but none the less.
don't come on a website and post about things you don't know about, unless you are asking questions and willing to learn... enjoy your 35 posts...
now if you would like to start all over again, and not be an e-tard, be my guest
84fordman, your right...
e-fan is an electric fan to replace your clutch driven one, takes less load off of the motor, can be thermostaticly controlled, (best method) on all the time (key on) or switched in the cab... or a combination of the above... lots of people use the fan off of the ford taurus
back on topic im gonna do gears and some of the other mods on here if the thing wont sell
honestly, don't go with the gears, if you wanted a fast vehicle, you woulda bought a mustang, right? imo, gears are used for 2 things, giving more torque, when you are using all the available torque you have, and it's still not enough (4low with it floored) OR you are trying to change your RPM at one of the 2 extremes, first gear, 4L, and you are trying to do rock crawling or something like that... or you want to get a lower RPM on the hiway... mine are ridiculously high (3000 rpm, doing 135km/h [83mph])
honestly, don't go with the gears, if you wanted a fast vehicle, you woulda bought a mustang, right? imo, gears are used for 2 things, giving more torque, when you are using all the available torque you have, and it's still not enough (4low with it floored) OR you are trying to change your RPM at one of the 2 extremes, first gear, 4L, and you are trying to do rock crawling or something like that... or you want to get a lower RPM on the hiway... mine are ridiculously high (3000 rpm, doing 135km/h [83mph])
2: im running 3.45's right now with 235/75/16's and if i remember right those are 29.5 or 30 inches tall and im wanting a 285 or 265 so i need to do gears if i keep it
ok, time to teach you people how to convert! first we must know what the numbers all mean....
235, this is the footprint of the tire, measured in millimetres (mm), not exactly sure where they measure it from... doesn't matter though... next is 75, this is the aspect ratio, it is the ratio, that the sidewall is of the footprint, and the last is 16, this is the rim size that the tire fits on(in inches)... so we want the height... well first, we know it is 16 inches, so there is the first significant number here... next we want to know how much sidewall we have, so we take 235 and multiply it by .75, this gives us 176.25mm, this is how tall EACH sidewall is... there is 2 sidewalls that you measure, when measuring the height of a tire, so multiply this number by 2, this gives us 352.5mm of sidewall across the tire, plus the 16 inches of rim...
we want to convert 352.5mm to inches, and we know that in each inch, there is 25.4 mm in each inch, this gives us 13.8 inches of sidewall, plus the 16 inches of rim, wich is 29.8"
so in otherwords, yes, you are absolutely right with your tire height...
you won't put a 285/75/16 on your truck... your aspect ratio is going to drop to probably 65or70... that would give you roughly the same height on the tire, you might get another inch or 2... but even with 32's i wouldn't want 4.10's unless you need it for the bottom end when you are 4x4ing, which yours isn't... if you were to re-gear, i would not go higher than 3.83's but that's my opinion... i drive fast, the traffic is fast up here... we do 80mph down the hiway on a regular basis... i was doing it this morning...
i did my gear ratios, worked it out on paper, running off of 3000rpm @ 135, and i got 4.227 rear end (using a .79 5th) just a little tidbit... but you would need a scanguage and a GPS to work it out accurately on paper...
235, this is the footprint of the tire, measured in millimetres (mm), not exactly sure where they measure it from... doesn't matter though... next is 75, this is the aspect ratio, it is the ratio, that the sidewall is of the footprint, and the last is 16, this is the rim size that the tire fits on(in inches)... so we want the height... well first, we know it is 16 inches, so there is the first significant number here... next we want to know how much sidewall we have, so we take 235 and multiply it by .75, this gives us 176.25mm, this is how tall EACH sidewall is... there is 2 sidewalls that you measure, when measuring the height of a tire, so multiply this number by 2, this gives us 352.5mm of sidewall across the tire, plus the 16 inches of rim...
we want to convert 352.5mm to inches, and we know that in each inch, there is 25.4 mm in each inch, this gives us 13.8 inches of sidewall, plus the 16 inches of rim, wich is 29.8"
so in otherwords, yes, you are absolutely right with your tire height...
you won't put a 285/75/16 on your truck... your aspect ratio is going to drop to probably 65or70... that would give you roughly the same height on the tire, you might get another inch or 2... but even with 32's i wouldn't want 4.10's unless you need it for the bottom end when you are 4x4ing, which yours isn't... if you were to re-gear, i would not go higher than 3.83's but that's my opinion... i drive fast, the traffic is fast up here... we do 80mph down the hiway on a regular basis... i was doing it this morning...
i did my gear ratios, worked it out on paper, running off of 3000rpm @ 135, and i got 4.227 rear end (using a .79 5th) just a little tidbit... but you would need a scanguage and a GPS to work it out accurately on paper...
wow...if i pay the money to regear im going 4.88 and ill probably only run 33 for a wile after that....and a lower gear ratio can make ur truck significantly faster whether u have bigger tires or not....ur highway mileage may go down but ur truck will defiantly be much faster....depending on how much u change....4.10 and 31 would be ideal for me.
wow...if i pay the money to regear im going 4.88 and ill probably only run 33 for a wile after that....and a lower gear ratio can make ur truck significantly faster whether u have bigger tires or not....ur highway mileage may go down but ur truck will defiantly be much faster....depending on how much u change....4.10 and 31 would be ideal for me.
we did the same test, in a simulator, with a 2 speed, and a 6 speed, provided you have enough torque in the motor to push through the low RPM's in the bottom of the gears, your time will not significantly be different... we are talking less than 1/10th of a second
so while it may FEEL faster, i'll bet you that you won't notice a significant difference in time... if you ever watch street legal drag racing, the biggest gap changes between cars that are evenly matched, are when they shift (manual transmission)
you will often see 2 cars, like civics for instance, that go and go and go, never shifting, and boom there goes their engine...





