Hello, hope everyone is doing good.
I'm looking for some assistance troubleshooting a crank/no start issue on a 1988 Ranger 2.9L, manual transmission 4x4, extended cab.
My son purchased this vehicle from a neighbor as he noticed it had been parked for several years, possibly decades.
We brought it over to the house hoping we could get it started. So far, no luck.
The truck will crank but will not start.
We changed a couple of things before we really got started due to obvious defects. The gas tank and whatever fuel was in it were in bad shape, this also caused the fuel pump/ sending unit to be completely corrode. We replaced the tank and the fuel sending unit with new parts. Also, the started solenoid had completely failed. Car wouldnt crank with a fresh battery, so we replaced that and got the truck cranking. A new fuel filter was also installed.
Some of the things we have confirmed:
-Fuel pressure appears to be correct at the fuel rail (Showing 32psi approx with key "ON" and pump pressure alone)
-Spark (installed new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor and new coil)
-New fuel regulator installed
-New injectors installed - Also checked 3 random injectors for pulse with noid light, light blinked on all 3 injectors while cranking
-New TFI module installed - Engine light turns on with key to "ON" position, engine light turns off while cranking.
-Engine will run while adding fuel through throttle body. Will keep running as long as fuel is added manually.

Looking for some new fresh ideas on this issue, I cant think of other problems at the moment that would keep the engine from running. Seems like everything needed for the engine to run is there. Sure I've overlooked something, hoping some of the guys here with the experience can point me in the right direction.

 

Welcome to the forum

Very, very good diagnostics

Because its starting and running by adding fuel manually that means spark is working and timed well enough
In 1988 spark is autonomous, distributor and TFI module

So its a fuel delivery issue, which is what the computer does
The CEL(check engine light) coming on means computer is powering up
The CEL going off when engine cranks means computer is getting a good timing pulse from TFI Module so it will start to open injectors

If there is any pressure at all at the fuel rail test port, then engine should start.................if injectors are not clogged
Fuel line isn't clogged or there would be no pressure

Simple test is to crank engine over a few times and pull out one or two spark plugs, tips should be WET with gasoline
If not then injectors are clogged up, yes can happen to all of them if gasoline sat long enough to turn into a "varnish"

You can get injectors rebuilt locally in most larger cities, these Ford injectors are pretty standard so it would most likely just be an exchange, you bring the 6 clogged injectors pay for the rebuild and walk out with 6 rebuilt injectors, $20-$25/injector I think
Get new o-rings if they they don't come with them
With an exchange check that the wire connectors are the same

New injectors run $50-$60/each

And you can DIY injectors as well, Google: clean and rebuild injectors

EDIT
OOPS

Sorry I reread post and you have new injectors

Crank engine and check spark plug tips, should be WET
If so Light tip with a match/lighter, should light easily, if not then its not fuel/gasoline

Gasoline engine needs spark, fuel and compression, no computers or sensor can change that
The fact it starts and runs by adding fuel manually means you have spark and compression
If you have fuel pressure and injector pulses then you should have fuel in the cylinders
If engine still doesn't start then its not fuel
That's really all that's left

 

Thanks for jumping in and providing some feedback.
I have not visually confirmed that the spark plugs are wet with fuel after cranking.
I will follow your suggestion and come back with some additional information.

 

Hello,
I was able to follow up with the suggestion above today. I apologize for the delay, im currently working nights and makes it difficult to follow up with this project on a daily basis.
I had my helper crank the truck for several seconds without manually feeding fuel. As expected, the truck did not start.
Immediately after we stop cranking, I removed the most accessible spark plug and visually checked for the presence of fuel. It appeared as if the the tip of plug was wet and followed with a lighter to confirm. Got a quick puff out of it.
Being the first time I've performed this check I would say that confirmed the presence of fuel in the cylinder. I'll see about checking other cylinders, randomly. Maybe I'll take a picture or two just for confirmation from other people.

 

If engine was cold it should be visibly wet because computer is adding extra fuel for Choke Mode
Lighter confirmed its flammable
Smell it as well before lighting it

A spark can not ignite liquid gasoline, yes the movie guys take liberties with that fact, lol
Only gasoline Vapor can be ignited by a spark, the vapor is what you smell
Warmer gasoline has more vapor than cold gasoline, i.e. you can smell it more in summer

A cylinder needs about 30% gasoline vapor for the spark plug to ignite it
And that's what the Choke was/is for
If engine temp is 60deg, and gasoline vapor at 60deg is 10% then you would need 3 times as much gasoline for spark to ignite the cylinders
On a Carb the Choke Plate closed and restricted air flow into the top of carb, so engine cranking vacuum sucked more fuel from the Jets, to get enough vapor to start engine

With fuel injection the computer does the calculation based on engine temp(ECT sensor), and opens the injectors longer to get enough vapor for cold start

There is a line where too much liquid gasoline can drown the spark plugs, flooded engine, so even if vapor is above 30% it can't start
But from description of the spark plug tip that shouldn't be happening

Quick Start(ether) has a low vapor point, which is why you can easily smell it, lol
And its flammable so makes a very good starting fluid, especially for cold engines
But once engine starts the firing cylinders get HOT inside very fast, so incoming liquid gasoline turns to vapor almost instantly
So not sure why engine is not staying running on its own once it starts

Possible weak spark, it you have a spark plug out, clamp it in a jumper cable hooked to a ground, and plug spark plug wire on it
Crank engine and see what color spark you have
Yellow/orange is weak
Blue is good, average/normal
Blue/white is good high voltage spark


Cold cranking only has about 9-10volts to the coil, starter motor sucks down voltage by 2volts at least
And then spark volts have to pass thru distributor cap and rotor gap and then jump spark plug gap
So there can be quite a bit of lost voltage there
Long shot

 

Will take a look at the quality of the spark.
I completely removed the spark as the culprit being that it takes a very small amount of fuel in the throttle body to get it to fire up.
Won't hurt to check though.