Is this the dreaded timing cover coolant leak?
#1
Is this the dreaded timing cover coolant leak?
'03 B3000 w/ 3.0 motor (97K miles)
Yesterday, I noticed a small amount of coolant where I park and added UV dye. Today, I crawled under and see the dye at the location I've circled. This was taken facing the front of the motor on the passenger side. Some quick google-fu came up with several hits about a timing cover coolant leak behind the water pump. (If that's what I'm looking at). Is that what is going on here? Thanks...
Yesterday, I noticed a small amount of coolant where I park and added UV dye. Today, I crawled under and see the dye at the location I've circled. This was taken facing the front of the motor on the passenger side. Some quick google-fu came up with several hits about a timing cover coolant leak behind the water pump. (If that's what I'm looking at). Is that what is going on here? Thanks...
#3
Yeah...
It's leaking right in the spot where the coolant passes through the cover.
When you remove the cover, be carful not do damage the pan gasket.
It also seems that the pan gasket is leaking _ a bit...
If you want to replace that, now's the time, but it's not easy, even more so because you have a 2X4, the front frame cross member is right in the way to get the pan off.
Having tried it on my 3 liter with the trans and engine in place, it's not possible, the baffle inside the pan gets hung up on the oil pump.
Even with the trans removed, it's a real bear, the engine practically has to be lifted off its mounts.
On mine, the rear oil seal is leaking, so rather then drop the trans, I'm just going to pull the engine, it's just as easy and much easier to replace the rear seal and in your case, replace the pan gasket.
At any rate, when you do the cover coolant seal, replace the front crank shaft seal and in many cases the dampener will be very worn because it's aluminum, so it may need to be sleeved.
So a heads up on that.
Take lots of photos of all the different bolts holding the cover and pump in place.
The fan clutch is left hand thread, so a head up on that too.
Sometimes it can be difficult to get off, go to YouTube and do a search for "Ford Ranger fan clutch removal".
It's leaking right in the spot where the coolant passes through the cover.
When you remove the cover, be carful not do damage the pan gasket.
It also seems that the pan gasket is leaking _ a bit...
If you want to replace that, now's the time, but it's not easy, even more so because you have a 2X4, the front frame cross member is right in the way to get the pan off.
Having tried it on my 3 liter with the trans and engine in place, it's not possible, the baffle inside the pan gets hung up on the oil pump.
Even with the trans removed, it's a real bear, the engine practically has to be lifted off its mounts.
On mine, the rear oil seal is leaking, so rather then drop the trans, I'm just going to pull the engine, it's just as easy and much easier to replace the rear seal and in your case, replace the pan gasket.
At any rate, when you do the cover coolant seal, replace the front crank shaft seal and in many cases the dampener will be very worn because it's aluminum, so it may need to be sleeved.
So a heads up on that.
Take lots of photos of all the different bolts holding the cover and pump in place.
The fan clutch is left hand thread, so a head up on that too.
Sometimes it can be difficult to get off, go to YouTube and do a search for "Ford Ranger fan clutch removal".
Last edited by Jeff R 1; 01-22-2018 at 08:20 PM.
#5
Yeah...
It's leaking right in the spot where the coolant passes through the cover.
When you remove the cover, be carful not do damage the pan gasket.
It also seems that the pan gasket is leaking _ a bit...
If you want to replace that, now's the time, but it's not easy, even more so because you have a 2X4, the front frame cross member is right in the way to get the pan off.
Having tried it on my 3 liter with the trans and engine in place, it's not possible, the baffle inside the pan gets hung up on the oil pump.
Even with the trans removed, it's a real bear, the engine practically has to be lifted off its mounts.
On mine, the rear oil seal is leaking, so rather then drop the trans, I'm just going to pull the engine, it's just as easy and much easier to replace the rear seal and in your case, replace the pan gasket.
At any rate, when you do the cover coolant seal, replace the front crank shaft seal and in many cases the dampener will be very worn because it's aluminum, so it may need to be sleeved.
So a heads up on that.
Take lots of photos of all the different bolts holding the cover and pump in place.
The fan clutch is left hand thread, so a head up on that too.
Sometimes it can be difficult to get off, go to YouTube and do a search for "Ford Ranger fan clutch removal".
It's leaking right in the spot where the coolant passes through the cover.
When you remove the cover, be carful not do damage the pan gasket.
It also seems that the pan gasket is leaking _ a bit...
If you want to replace that, now's the time, but it's not easy, even more so because you have a 2X4, the front frame cross member is right in the way to get the pan off.
Having tried it on my 3 liter with the trans and engine in place, it's not possible, the baffle inside the pan gets hung up on the oil pump.
Even with the trans removed, it's a real bear, the engine practically has to be lifted off its mounts.
On mine, the rear oil seal is leaking, so rather then drop the trans, I'm just going to pull the engine, it's just as easy and much easier to replace the rear seal and in your case, replace the pan gasket.
At any rate, when you do the cover coolant seal, replace the front crank shaft seal and in many cases the dampener will be very worn because it's aluminum, so it may need to be sleeved.
So a heads up on that.
Take lots of photos of all the different bolts holding the cover and pump in place.
The fan clutch is left hand thread, so a head up on that too.
Sometimes it can be difficult to get off, go to YouTube and do a search for "Ford Ranger fan clutch removal".
#6
If you had to guess, what kind of timeline do you think i have before this becomes a real problem? I've only noticed the smallest of spots on the ground that got me under the truck in the first place. I bought this truck to use as a daily driver for $4900 last year and the prospects of spending 1K on this repair (assuming I don't have the time/ability to tackle it myself) makes really consider selling it for whatever I can get out of it.
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