3.0 and NO2 1/4 mile times
#1
3.0 and NO2 1/4 mile times
im seriously debating whether to spend a lil bit of money to get a no2 system (dry) and get decent 1/4 mile times or spend a ton of $ (whipple) and get decent 1/4 mile times do you belive that they would be comparable? anyone have no2 on there 3.0 and have track times with it?
thanks
thanks
#2
I have the 3.0 and am running a 50 shot (wet) righ now. No track times, but hope to go soon. I can tell you for the money, it is WELL worth it. I take out my dad's Chevy with a 5.7 liter vortech in it. (Granted I can drive better, but still not bad)
Not saying that just adding the juice is going to make you super speed demon, but it provides a VERY VERY noticable gain. I've got 32" MT's on my truck and I can make them scream at the line with an Auto tranny.
Not saying that just adding the juice is going to make you super speed demon, but it provides a VERY VERY noticable gain. I've got 32" MT's on my truck and I can make them scream at the line with an Auto tranny.
#3
derek8819 had a 75 or 100 shot with the most built 3.0 i have ever seen... and leo's 4.0 beat him with just an aftermarket muffler...(no nitrous)
he never got in the 13's as far as i know...
and he only dyno'd 192 rwhp on the nitrous...
I currently am running a 100 shot with all ported and polished heads, lower intake, JBA Headers, Halfshafted TB, and MAF mod., 1.72 Roller Rockers, Stud Girdle.
and he only dyno'd 192 rwhp on the nitrous...
#5
He took it about as far as you could go. I would say yes, performance/cost ratio wasn't as worth while, but he did learn alot I'm sure. Now he's got a v8 mustang...
Jeff, the best thing to do is to figure out what kinda horsepower you are putting out now. Put that into an of the thousands of online calculators that compute 1/4 mile E.T. off vehicle weight and horsepower. Then add 50 HP *.75 (for drivetrain loss) and you'll know what to expect. It's a ballpark esimation of course, but it'll give you an idea of what to expect.
Jeff, the best thing to do is to figure out what kinda horsepower you are putting out now. Put that into an of the thousands of online calculators that compute 1/4 mile E.T. off vehicle weight and horsepower. Then add 50 HP *.75 (for drivetrain loss) and you'll know what to expect. It's a ballpark esimation of course, but it'll give you an idea of what to expect.
#6
basicly if i use a 60 shot ill knock 2 full seconds of the 1/4 mile according to one of those calculators ad dougs tuner an intake and exhaust and theroeticly were into the 14's (according to the calculator) with a 3200 pound truck and 230 flywheel hp (154 stock +60 shot + ~10 for the rest of the mods
#8
#10
You actually make about 120-130 stock... what Ford says is very hyped up...
If you want to look at someone else doing a LOT of work with a 3.0 all motor go look at Screamin Deemon on GE. He's the only other 3.0 like that thats all motor. He's done some major work and is only at 177 rwhp. He's done heads cam almost all bolt ons... go check him out.
If you want to look at someone else doing a LOT of work with a 3.0 all motor go look at Screamin Deemon on GE. He's the only other 3.0 like that thats all motor. He's done some major work and is only at 177 rwhp. He's done heads cam almost all bolt ons... go check him out.
#16
#17
#18
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
Here comes the rudeness..
Stripped and without a spare tire, I have no upgraded sub boxes ( I rarely even listen to the factory mp3 player ) I tip the scales at 3400lbs. This is for a 2wd extended cab.
The 3.0 is not worth investing the money into. For what it costs to wake it up, you can find a 4.0 from an insurance salvage with everything you need and then start modding. You'll have a MUCH stronger bottom end and more Torque to begin with. The 4.0 Also LOVES juice as it has no floating valvetrain and can take higher rpm's.
D.
Stripped and without a spare tire, I have no upgraded sub boxes ( I rarely even listen to the factory mp3 player ) I tip the scales at 3400lbs. This is for a 2wd extended cab.
The 3.0 is not worth investing the money into. For what it costs to wake it up, you can find a 4.0 from an insurance salvage with everything you need and then start modding. You'll have a MUCH stronger bottom end and more Torque to begin with. The 4.0 Also LOVES juice as it has no floating valvetrain and can take higher rpm's.
D.
#21
#22
#25
Originally Posted by 04B3000
Well Ford Motorsports has a supercharger for the 3.0 that i am thinking about getting...I know its 3000 bucks but hey...how often do you see a supercharged ranger driving around?
if you ahve a supercharged vehicle and you get beat by a N/A vehicle, you are simply jsut gonna get laughed at buddy, then go home and cry and wish you woulda bought a 4.0 and swapped it in... so save yourself the hearbreak kiddo and get a real engine.... you'll prolly see a lot of S/C for a 4.0 soon because of the new V6 stang using that engine... there will be more aftermarket..
ok I gotta stop tlaking I could go on forever...