Performance parts help.
#1
#2
CAI's are a joke
i bet others will explain more on this later but basically bolt on cone filter intakes suck in air from your engine bay....have you ever opened your hood after driving for a few minutes? its not cold
unless you build an intake that sucks air from outside the engine bay (fender well, grill, hood scoop)...you'll be sucking in hot air and hot air is bad for performance.
start with underdrive pulleys or a drop in filter ( k&N)
you'll see minor gains with those just to get your feet wet....
i bet others will explain more on this later but basically bolt on cone filter intakes suck in air from your engine bay....have you ever opened your hood after driving for a few minutes? its not cold
unless you build an intake that sucks air from outside the engine bay (fender well, grill, hood scoop)...you'll be sucking in hot air and hot air is bad for performance.
start with underdrive pulleys or a drop in filter ( k&N)
you'll see minor gains with those just to get your feet wet....
#3
the engine bay is still hot with out a cai....adding one doesnt make your intake suck in hot air.... its going to either way. besides the facotry box is restrictive as hell... adding the cai increases the flow of air into the intake, its not much of a gian but it helps. also adds throttle resopnce
#4
Well Walter , after looking at your profile , you have a '98 3.0 .
Don't expect to make it a "Super Truck".
3.0's are reliable , when taken care of , but don't expect high performance.
About the only best mods you can do is an underdrive pulley setup like Stig said.
Is this your DD (daily driver) ?
Don't expect to make it a "Super Truck".
3.0's are reliable , when taken care of , but don't expect high performance.
About the only best mods you can do is an underdrive pulley setup like Stig said.
Is this your DD (daily driver) ?
#5
yes its a daily driver but i dont go many places but my local town and school no crazy road tripping for me.
i have the truck and just got the whole thing running tight after a few things going wrong (bad alternator spark plug wires some odds and ends, brand new everything for brakes) but now im just lookig to do something in general to take up time. Love the truck to death but i see so many people with so much done to theirs and just want to get down and dirty and do something with it. problem is i mostly know how to fix cars and trucks not enhance them.
so about these underdrive pulleys i did some research and apparently they mess with a/c and some other things but in general what are they supposed to do? im not trying to do something crippling for a few more horsepower.
i have the truck and just got the whole thing running tight after a few things going wrong (bad alternator spark plug wires some odds and ends, brand new everything for brakes) but now im just lookig to do something in general to take up time. Love the truck to death but i see so many people with so much done to theirs and just want to get down and dirty and do something with it. problem is i mostly know how to fix cars and trucks not enhance them.
so about these underdrive pulleys i did some research and apparently they mess with a/c and some other things but in general what are they supposed to do? im not trying to do something crippling for a few more horsepower.
#6
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in order of performance gain:
1. programmer (superchips, jetchips, bamachips) will run you between $100.0-$200.0 (used) / $300.00-$400.0 (new)
2. underdrive pulleys
3. E-fan (electric fan)
4. larger air intake
for my intake, I used the stock intake box, but removed all the guts as well as the port from behind the headlamp. blocked it off from the rest of the engine bay so it is only sucking air in that comes from outside. also I built something that will direct the incoming air right at the cone filter. sort of making it a short ram intake, but not quite.
1. programmer (superchips, jetchips, bamachips) will run you between $100.0-$200.0 (used) / $300.00-$400.0 (new)
2. underdrive pulleys
3. E-fan (electric fan)
4. larger air intake
for my intake, I used the stock intake box, but removed all the guts as well as the port from behind the headlamp. blocked it off from the rest of the engine bay so it is only sucking air in that comes from outside. also I built something that will direct the incoming air right at the cone filter. sort of making it a short ram intake, but not quite.
#8
This was a post (may have been on TRS) on a good test
for aftermarket intakes / filters:
I don't know how many of you caught this post in the link I posted, but the test this guy did is pretty conclusive test that the OEM intake and paper filter IS NOT the limiting factor for airflow into the engine, and you won't get any more airflow with the K&N. And on top of that, it's with a GM product!!!:icon_rofl:
"Only way to really know is to read your Mass Airflow Sensor on a scanner with both filters. Take a WOT run and record the highest MAF reading, then swap filters and go for another run. If there's a considerably higher reading with the K&N, then your engine is outflowing the paper filter. If they're similar, then the engine is not making any more power with one vs. another, no matter what your "butt dyno" is telling you.
Sometimes the K&N filters make the airbox louder, but really aren't doing anything else. People tend to equate more noise with more power lots of times too.
On my old '97 Grand Prix, I saw MAF readings of 19.8#/min with a new Wix paper filter, a K&N drop-in filter, an open cone, and an aftermarket CAI. This tells me that the engine was breathing just as well thru a paper filter as it was thru any other filter I tried. The paper filter and factory airbox were of sufficient flow rates for this engine."
for aftermarket intakes / filters:
I don't know how many of you caught this post in the link I posted, but the test this guy did is pretty conclusive test that the OEM intake and paper filter IS NOT the limiting factor for airflow into the engine, and you won't get any more airflow with the K&N. And on top of that, it's with a GM product!!!:icon_rofl:
"Only way to really know is to read your Mass Airflow Sensor on a scanner with both filters. Take a WOT run and record the highest MAF reading, then swap filters and go for another run. If there's a considerably higher reading with the K&N, then your engine is outflowing the paper filter. If they're similar, then the engine is not making any more power with one vs. another, no matter what your "butt dyno" is telling you.
Sometimes the K&N filters make the airbox louder, but really aren't doing anything else. People tend to equate more noise with more power lots of times too.
On my old '97 Grand Prix, I saw MAF readings of 19.8#/min with a new Wix paper filter, a K&N drop-in filter, an open cone, and an aftermarket CAI. This tells me that the engine was breathing just as well thru a paper filter as it was thru any other filter I tried. The paper filter and factory airbox were of sufficient flow rates for this engine."
#9
the engine bay is still hot with out a cai....adding one doesnt make your intake suck in hot air.... its going to either way. besides the facotry box is restrictive as hell... adding the cai increases the flow of air into the intake, its not much of a gian but it helps. also adds throttle resopnce
#16
If you're even remotely interested in building up your 3.0 V6 I suggest checking this site out.
#19
#22
About how much HP have you gained from doing all of this? Also, what is this MAF mod I keep seeing, but can't find anything on what it is, or how to do it. I've searched, and still have found nothing, can you guys help me out?
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