Heater Core Hose Assembly Leak Question
 

Good Evening folks,

So I have a 2002 ford ranger 3L V6 and while I have had a small coolant leak for a while, it has started to get a little worse. I'm having to fill my reservoir about once a month now so I can't keep on ignoring it like I have been. I know for a fact there is a leak in the heater core hose assembly (see my picture below), so I wanted to know what y'all would suggest: Should I replace the whole assembly or would I be better off just replacing the part of the assembly that is leaking. Also, should I be looking at replacing all of my external coolant hoses just as preventative maintenance while I am at it? What are your thoughts?
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...08c76c0176.jpg

Picture is the heater bypass valve
Google: Motorcraft YG426

Change it if its leaking

Hoses are 20 years old, sure replace the ones that you think need it

Got MotorCraft# YG368 here for that factory JunkPlastic 2WayHeaterValve, 5/8"HoseBarbs, VacToClose.
Replaced it with a traditional AllMetal HeaterValve a while back with good results: 4Seasons# 74603.
20YrOld+ Coolant Hoses+Clamps+Pump+Fan+FanClutch+Radiator+RadiatorC ap+ThermoStat+TStatHousing... have done their duty,
so yep time to flush & renew all those parts & the Coolant.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...ac7ee123da.gif

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...2e929c93f1.gif

Hey Ron! Thanks for the tip. One step closer to having a brand new ranger with all the parts that are having to be replaced lol.

I guess I might as well start replacing all of my external coolant hoses. This will just be the first of several more to come.

If I recall, the only other coolant hoses aside from the heater core assembly are the upper and lower radiator hoses? I could be wrong

The metal part shown is a metal equivalent to the OEM part shown above, correct? Just wanted to be sure I understand lol. What's the benefit of using that design as opposed to the original equipment? I assume it's less likely to crack and become brittle over time.

Also, are you suggesting that I look into replacing the parts you listed? That could be quite the project for me all in one shot, though I'm sure it would help the old girl run even longer.

Thanks for the suggestions!

Yes, the metal one will last longer

But........you don't really need either one, you can just use a metal hose connector(coupler) and delete the device, put a plug in the Grey Vacuum hose end

This valve is used to turn off coolant flow thru the cabs heater core when MAX AC is selected on the climate control in the cab
I doubt you would notice any difference in AC cooling effects in the cab
And for the price of a metal coupler you could try it first, and replace the valve if you do notice less cooling in the cab in MAX AC
Valve is not used in AC, only MAX AC

MAX AC's main benefit for cooling is that it closes the Fresh Air Vent, so AC is re-cooling the already cooled air in the cab, vs trying to cool the hotter air from the outside

Yes to all 3 questions.
The OEM plastic BallValve inherently gets brittle & cracks with age; traditional metal PlugValve is my choice\recommendation; both operate VacToClose.
Same philosophy applies when replacing an OEM PlasticTanked Radiator; recommend an AllAluminum replacement.
Considering age\mileage of your vehicle, original Coolant system parts after 100kMiles\10years or so become questionable.
Don't have to replace all of those parts at the same time; considering need to drain+flush+refill, it's just less labor\expense all at once.
If you haven't flushed+replaced the Coolant+ThermoStat in the last 33kMiles\4years, it's due.
Certainly it's a judgement call on your part of cost vs benefit.
Hope this helps.

Thank you Dillard!

Yeah, I saw a complete hose assembly for sale on Rock Auto. It's about 200 bucks though so ... it's doable, but a bit much for a bunch of just rubber hose and connectors lol, but what do I know?

I did flush and fill the coolant around 100k miles, and that was before any obvious coolant leaks.

The coolant hoses look to be in decent shape. I don't see any cracks in the rubber and they are still pliable, though not as soft as being brand new. The leak looks like it is coming from the t-connector above the line that goes to that ball valve thing on the lower hose.

I guess I'll give an update when I make up my mind and make the repair.