Lower Intake/Push Rod question
 

Hello everyone
I just finished installing the lower set intake manifold gaskets and have a question about the push rods that have to come out to remove the lower manifold.
is there a tightening sequence or procedure that follows after loosening the rocker arms and removing the necessary push rods? And how do I make sure they're seated correctly?
I have referred to the manual and a write up i came across and both say to just torque them down to spec.

​​​​thanks for the help

Edit: 02 Ranger Edge 3.0L

Just what the manual says, it doesn't matter about the sequence.
The tricky part is getting the push rod seated properly in the lifter, they go in at an angle.
You can take a pen flash light and check this as you go along by shinning the light down into the intake manifold _ sometimes using a small mirror helps.

I my manual it said to tighten the rockers down when the cam lobes were at the bottom of that one you're working on, but it doesn't really matter.
If the cam lobe is in the "up" position, the valve spring simply compresses as the rock is tightened down, it won't effect the torque value.

Take note as you tighten each one down the rocker may want to turn clockwise, hold it to it and keep it square.
It's not that critical, but it helps to keep the push rod centered in its hole.

When you're done, remove the spark plugs and gently turn the engine over by hand 3 or 4 revolutions to make sure that all the push rods are opening and closing the valves properly.
Just a safety precaution to make sure the valve train is working properly.

Thanks Jeff for the peace of mind I got her up and running

Another question, is it normal for these engines to ping/knock after shutting off?
I'm not sure if it was always there, but now when I shut the engine off, I hear a slight ping knocking noise several times after. I can't hear it from inside the cabin, only when I'm under the hood. It only pings like 5 times

You mean "run-on" after the ignition is shut down.
No it's not normal, could be a leaky injector or faulty EGR system. (assuming we're talking about he same thing)

Run the truck and be sure it's totally warmed up, like after a long drive.
Hold the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor, this engages the "clear flooded engine" protocol.
Try and start the truck, it should not start, the injectors should not be firing, if it tries to start, then one or more of the injectors is leaking.

On my truck I use mid grade fuel, the 3 litre's were "pingy" engines, if I use regular it will ping when going up long highway hills.
Try some mid grade fuel.

SeaFoam may help here as well, next time you fill up, add a can and do it again.
Could be just carbon build up in the combustion chamber.

Okay just so you know I changed the fuel injectors while I was at it with a remanufactured set I got off eBay which could probably be the culprit. I didn't start hearing it til after the new injectors were in

Would putting a stethoscope at the injectors confirm it? I did hear it coming from that area

I don't think a stethoscope would help, once the engine is off, you won't hear anything from the injectors, but because there is still pressure in the fuel rail, if one or more is leaking, then fuel will continue to dribble into the combustion chamber.

I take it, it passed the clear flooded test ???

You can hear popping or "pinging" noises after shut down but its not from gasoline knock/ping, engine has to be turning for that noise

When you shut off the engine the water pump stops circulating coolant, so if engine/heads were warm they will now get HOT, and that can cause similar noises as the coolant expands very fast in the heads.

And then there are Cat converter noises, Cats get very hot(1,200-1,600deg) and they can make ping and pop noises but are unheard when engine is running, after shut off they are still hot so noise continues

I don't hear any pings while the truck is running.
​​​​​​The only thing noticable is that the truck will stutter once or twice before start up. I have seen this more while it's cold, maybe when hot too.

​​​​​

I believe so, it just cranked and cranked. It didn't feel like it wanted to start up.
any other test to and narrow this down?

Sound like the injectors are good, bunch of stuff to do.

Clean you MAF sensor, use the special cleaner in the spray can, don't touch the MAF filaments with anything, just use the cleaner.
Check IAC valve by unplugging its connector after truck is fully warmed up, engines RPM's should drop to around 500, if not, there is a small vacuum leak somewhere.
Sometimes the valve itself can become dirty causing these types of conditions _ remove and inspect it.

When the truck is fully warmed up, unplug the vacuum line to the EGR valve and block off the line _ shut the truck off and see if things improve.
Testing the EGR valve with a vacuum pump is best if you have one.
EGR valves become sooty and cause your symptoms.

Change you engine coolant temp sensor, they're inexpensive, it has two wires coming out of it, don't confuse it with the dash sending unit for the temp gauge, it has one wire.

Clean your air intake charge temp sensor with the same cleaner as for the MAF sensor, it looks like this and is found about half way down the air tube.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2002,ranger,3.0l+v6,1438306,fuel+&+air,air+in take+/+charge+temperature+sensor,5072

When was the last time your air filter and box was changed/cleaned ?

Are you still running the metal DPFE sensor for the EGR system, if you are, that should be changed ?
It's located in thee upper middle of the intake manifold, left of the throttle body.
The lines running from it should be changed out when the sensor is replaced.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...e)+sensor,5088

Ok thanks Jeff for the excellent write up, but before we go any further I posted the video of the noise I've been experiencing. I wanna know your thoughts if my issue could be from the valve train, carbon build up, or something else entirely.


https://youtu.be/eVmAXE5Ba24

Sounds like a relay opening and closing, none of those things posted above are going to fix that noise.
I've never heard a noise like that before _ on any engine.

After the engine is shut off, remove the negative battery terminal and see if it stops, if it does, then at least we'll know if it's electrical.

It almost sounds like air in the water system, but I don't think that's it, it's not the same, air in the water jacket sounds more like gurgling, not the metallic sound that I'm hearing.

Yeah disconnecting the neg. Terminal didn't help.
I'm kind of bummed out right now. I'll probably take it to a shop and see what they think

Today I drove out to the recycling depot, so the catalytic converter (front one) was not totally warmed up and there was that popping and clicking sound _ exactly the same as yours.
The sound went away after the truck fully warmed up, at least I didn't hear it after a shut it off when I got home.

I wouldn't worry about the sound.

I am replacing lower intake manifold gasket and have to remove pushrod to get it off the top of engine block. My question is about removing pushrod from its position, is there a specific way of loosening the bolt on top of rocker to be able to move rod out of way, so I can get the intake off? (2000 ford ranger xlt 3.0)

Just undue them keeping the rockers and push rods in the order they come out.
I don't remember what the torque specs are, but it's not like early hydraulic lifters where the bolts are only partially tightened down until the lifers become quiet, the rocker bolts are torqued down to a specific setting and that's it.
It's pretty simple.

See post #2 as well.