2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

Oil in coolant 3.0

  #51  
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You a Jag man Jeff ... only problem i had was fitting the intake manifold bolts, using fel pro gaskets they were quite thick... could get the bolts in one side but not the other, on off on off ????... in the end i used a wooden mallet to tap it down to start bolts....... when all done i took that picture........... dam the gasket moved up a bit at the front after all tightened, didnt see that...i decided to leave it and cut gasket flush with the head, the permatex should seal it...
 
  #52  
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All done and running ok
 
  #53  
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Just OK, not great !
I had a B2200 with the same problem, but not as bad, oil getting into the water jacket.
I never did find out what the cause was, drove the truck until it turned into a pile of rust.
 
  #54  
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Well guys i got this sick feeling in my stomach this morning when i noticed oil on the garage floor under the rear of the oil pan... checked up top all dry, pcv ok no blockage ... i wedged a screwdriver under the alloy plate between the engine and trans, put a light up there and there it was drip every ten seconds running at 1500 rpm.. coming out right in the middle rear of pan this part of pan ( i used OEM gasket and rear crank seal making sure the spring never came out of the seal when fitting it.. only using permatex on edge of rear main bearing cap. Put pan gasket on dry except for the rear edges..
 

Last edited by uksparky; 1 Week Ago at 02:19 PM.
  #55  
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Rear main seal leak, bummer

Crank may/does have a scratch, have to sleeve it
 

Last edited by RonD; 1 Week Ago at 08:39 PM.
  #56  
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Originally Posted by uksparky View Post
Well guys i got this sick feeling in my stomach this morning when i noticed oil on the garage floor under the rear of the oil pan... checked up top all dry, pcv ok no blockage ... i wedged a screwdriver under the alloy plate between the engine and trans, put a light up there and there it was drip every ten seconds running at 1500 rpm.. coming out right in the middle rear of pan this part of pan ( i used OEM gasket and rear crank seal making sure the spring never came out of the seal when fitting it.. only using permatex on edge of rear main bearing cap. Put pan gasket on dry except for the rear edges..
The garter spring on my rear crank seal popped off for no apparent reason when I did my engine.
I replaced it with one of those Teflon crank seals, and that leaks too, but no where near as bad, but still leaks even though I put a sleeve on it.
I'm going to eventually do it a third time with a Ford Motor Craft seal.
The garter spring is tucked in quite a bit more when compared to the Fel-Pro seal, so hopefully it will stay in place.
This time around I intend to pull the engine rather then dropping the trans
I had quite the time cramming my six foot frame in the transmission tunnel.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/2-9l-3...-151784/page2/

https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...saster-148819/

Fel-pro said the garter spring may have popped off because of excessive crank case pressure due to the engine not being broken in yet.
 

Last edited by Jeff R 1; 1 Week Ago at 07:48 PM.
  #57  
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Not sure I buy that excessive crank case pressure thing, crank case is is not sealed, not even close as far as positive pressure

The valve cover has a Vent, or Breather, hose, and there are several larger oil drain holes connecting the crank case and valve cover areas for ventilation

If you have repeated rear seal leaks then you should do a run out test when the crank is exposed again, maybe crank is not spinning true causing premature seal failure

The rear crank bearing is right next to this seal but there is no pressure, just a **** load of oil coming out next to the seal, lol.


Interesting feature in the 3.0l Vulcan, an oil plug above the rear main seal........................seen here: https://www.motor.com/magazine-summa...-january-2001/
 
  #58  
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That's the other thought that I had Ron, the oil pump is right in that area with the rear main crank bearing is.
I was planning on making some sort of baffle to keep the oil coming out of the rear bearing where it directly comes in contact with the seal.
Not to totally direct the oil right off, as the seal needs some lubrication, but just to direct the lions share of it away from the seal itself.

I don't plan on removing the crank and having it checked _ too much work, plus I'm sure Chuck at my machine shop would have checked that, I would be surprised if he didn't, I gave him Carte-Blanche on the rebuild.
I've known him for more then 20 years, I just can't see him fu*cking something up like that, but I will run it past him.

Here's something that will make everyone cringe over at the Jag forum, the guys engine seized up while on a test run after a fresh rebuild.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...dation-208177/
 

Last edited by Jeff R 1; 1 Week Ago at 09:58 PM.
  #59  
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Ron Jeff... this chaps my hide having to pull the engine...... i went with the ford seal and pan gasket for longevity .. when the short block came i pulled the rear main cap to remove the cheap seal... re fit the main cap and re torqued ... then fit the seal, no scratches on the seal area .. the rebuilt short block has new cam bearings, thanks for the info on the cam plug, could be coming from there... on a bright note the new engine runs great, no oil in coolant lol....much more power than the old engine.
 
  #60  
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Well after thinking this over i have about 40 hours into this engine and approx $2,000 spent...not doing it again.....decided to have my trans pulled by the repair shop, same place i went when i pulled the trans myself a few years back... getting too old to be rolling on the ground again.. hoist needed ...getting it done in the next few weeks...i should have left the seal that came with the engine, me thinking ford seal part was better...we will see......... around $300 pulling trans etc will update later ...
 
  #61  
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Originally Posted by uksparky View Post
Well after thinking this over i have about 40 hours into this engine and approx $2,000 spent...not doing it again.....decided to have my trans pulled by the repair shop, same place i went when i pulled the trans myself a few years back... getting too old to be rolling on the ground again.. hoist needed ...getting it done in the next few weeks...i should have left the seal that came with the engine, me thinking ford seal part was better...we will see......... around $300 pulling trans etc will update later ...
I t will be interesting to see what's the cause of the actual oil leak.
Wouldn't that be something if the garter spring popped off like mine did ???
 
  #62  
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I was talking to a ford dealership mechanic yesterday, he told me a tool is used to fit the rear seal.... if the tool is not used the spring could come off when tapping in... the seal i used was the ford OEM one it has a rubber lip covering the seal to prevent it coming out... when i fitted the ford seal (nice tight fit ) the oil pan was off and i could see through the slot in the main cap that the spring was still in place, which makes me think could it be the rear of the oil pan leaking i didnt use any sealant around the bottom rear of rear pan just in the corners.... and i know you have to put it on dry..................... i dont think its the seal
 

Last edited by uksparky; 1 Week Ago at 09:18 AM.
  #63  
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This morning i decided to look further into the leak.... i put the front end up on axle stands, wedged two wooden dowels between sandwich plate and started engine at idle until hot...No Leaks...... raised the idle up to 2k got under with oil light drip started... turned off engine and wiped oil off.... started again at idle running for ten minutes No Oil Leak
So i dont think its the seal or pan its a oil pressure problem........ cam plug cover or that oil gallery plug.... any comments guys
 
  #64  
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Probably the cam plug and/or the oil gallery plug.
There may also be a small leak where the rear cap bolts onto the block where the oil may work it's way through that joint around the back of the crank seal.
I put some sealant there when I did mine.

And about the spring coming off, I did mine with the pan and bearing cap off.
I seated the seal and carefully installed the rear cap with the seal in place, I didn't tap mine in place at all and yet the garter spring came off somehow.
I could physically see the spring in place before I put the pan back on.

Yours doesn't sound like the spring came off, you would have a very bad steady leak like I did if that happened.
My machinist epoxied the rear cap and oil gallery plug in place.
 
  #65  
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Not to avoid the obvious but what about the oil sender?

Perfect spot for oil to take its time running down under engine, clean fresh oil so hard to see at the top.

Free to check :)
 
  #66  
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Ron thanks ... no leaks up top... have update wooden pegs still in i could move the pan at the rear where the gasket sits with a screwdriver only a few mm and oil started seeping out so the ford pan gasket is not sealing.....i will go fel pro and permatex the **** out of it........... but can i remove the pan without removing the engine .. lifting the engine only
 
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You can't remove the pan but can lower it by lifting engine a bit.

Problem is the oil pump pick up, can't get engine high enough so oil pan can clear transmission(bellhousing & ring gear) and oil pump pickup, to slide it back and out
 
  #68  
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Glenn, if the you think the pan gasket is leaking, just pull the bloody engine, mount it on stand and be done with it, trying to replace the pan gasket upside down in that tight space _ getting everything all lined up with no oil contamination is nearly impossible.


On a proper engine stand, you can turn the engine pan side up _ so much easier, plus it's not that much bother to pull the engine as dropping the trans.
That's what I plan on doing when I do my seal again.

I don't what the Ford OEM pan gasket is like, but the Fel-Pro one has these thick metal washers moulded into the gasket so it can't be crushed.
And about the Ford pan gasket, they did update to a new style, it's quite possible that you got some really old stock before the improvements were made.
You won't have any problem with the Fel-Pro one.
 
  #69  
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Just finished for the day i got the engine high as i could and lifting trans off mounts.... another two inches dam and it would be out.... i was able to twist the pan and get the gasket off around the oil pump the ford gasket is the same style thick metal washers pulled off p/s hose under pump, radiator unbolted came up with engine...picking up gasket today....i could see the rear main oil seal spring was still in place and the pan and block will be clean no oil contam plenty of room to get my hands in... job for Sunday I will put sealant just on the rear... I don't have engine stand... thanks for all the help
 

Last edited by uksparky; 1 Week Ago at 06:24 PM.
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Jeff R 1 View Post
Glenn, if the you think the pan gasket is leaking, just pull the bloody engine, mount it on stand and be done with it, trying to replace the pan gasket upside down in that tight space _ getting everything all lined up with no oil contamination is nearly impossible.


On a proper engine stand, you can turn the engine pan side up _ so much easier, plus it's not that much bother to pull the engine as dropping the trans.
That's what I plan on doing when I do my seal again.

I don't what the Ford OEM pan gasket is like, but the Fel-Pro one has these thick metal washers moulded into the gasket so it can't be crushed.
And about the Ford pan gasket, they did update to a new style, it's quite possible that you got some really old stock before the improvements were made.
You won't have any problem with the Fel-Pro one.




Sunday morning update.... just got finished putting everything back..... i don't have the best place to work on truck i do a have two car garage backed in the ranger, problem is i have a sloping concrete drive way, the shop crane would hit the garage door pulling hole engine, short block was ok..the rear wheels of crane were outside on drive way.
I was able to pull the pan out getting engine bit higher, but i couldn't put the gasket on the pan refitting i had to fit gasket to the block with two loose mounting screws, then push pan in...remove screws drop gasket on pan with sealant at the rear, up the pan goes using extension and socket screw bolts in. i will give it 24 hrs to set



 
  #71  
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It's a bit late now, but Fel-Pro makes these little plastic hangers that temporarily thread into the bolt holes to hold the gasket in place in situations like yours.
However when I did mine, I had to recut the threads on the plastic, because they were so tight, I couldn't thread them in, but they did work after that.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...446380&jsn=625
 
  #72  
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Not a good day guys.. this morning added the oil and ran engine in garage to normal temp.... no oil leak..... got on highway 55 mph for one mile looked under ok.. turned around came back one mile... stopped and looked under .. no leaks man was i relieved .... half mile back home pulled up drive way..... looked under and i see three very small streams of oil running down the back of the pan. Take it back out again and its good and hot now, looking under and holding throttle pedal down bringing rpm up with my hand dripping from pan again. So i used a fel pro gasket and put sealant on the rear i dont think its the seal because it was a nice tight fit going in nice and slow not crooked, the garter spring never came off.........what next......my options are having the transmission pulled..... waiting for feedback from Babbco motors... when will this nightmare end
 
  #73  
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Bummer

I would put some UV dye in the oil now and then run the engine to get dye circulated and out the leak point, so you see the dye in the dripping oil

Then yes I think you should pull the transmission to get to the bottom of it
 
  #74  
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At the time when I had my trans out, I was seriously planning on making an adapter plate to bolt on the starter, so I could run the engine with out the trans in place.
I'm still seriously thinking of doing this.
Even more so now, with Glenn's problems.
 
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Jeff R 1 View Post
At the time when I had my trans out, I was seriously planning on making an adapter plate to bolt on the starter, so I could run the engine with out the trans in place.
I'm still seriously thinking of doing this.
Even more so now, with Glenn's problems.
Should be able to get an A4LD/4R/5R bell housing from wrecking yard and have some one cut it out with a torch, you need those engine bolts tight for starter to work and not damage the ring gear
 

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