Position of camshaft synchronizer
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Joined: Dec 2017
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From: Saint inigoes MD
Position of camshaft synchronizer
Hi, I was wondering if someone could please tell me the correct position of the camshaft synchronizer in a 2004 3.0 ranger xlt. I have looked it up and have gotten a bunch of numbers like ( 15* 30* 34* 54* 75*) which one is it!?!? Thanks
Josh
Josh
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Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 2,022
Likes: 44
From: BC Canada
Forget about all those numbers.
The position of the sensor is correct when the lead wires to it are not "stressed".
Set number 1 piston on compression as per the link. (TDC, "top dead centre")
Line up the synchronizer tooth with the correct alignment tool and drop it in while the tool is in place.
It may take a few tries to get it right so the sensor wires reach comfortably to the sensor itself.
It can go in any way as long as the alignment tool keeps it in that position when it's dropped in place.
That's what I mean when I say "so the wires to the sensor are not stressed".
Just make sure that number 1 is at top dead centre and on compression.
Post again if you don't have the alignment tool.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine...9-3-0v-114186/
The position of the sensor is correct when the lead wires to it are not "stressed".
Set number 1 piston on compression as per the link. (TDC, "top dead centre")
Line up the synchronizer tooth with the correct alignment tool and drop it in while the tool is in place.
It may take a few tries to get it right so the sensor wires reach comfortably to the sensor itself.
It can go in any way as long as the alignment tool keeps it in that position when it's dropped in place.
That's what I mean when I say "so the wires to the sensor are not stressed".
Just make sure that number 1 is at top dead centre and on compression.
Post again if you don't have the alignment tool.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine...9-3-0v-114186/
Last edited by Jeff R 1; Jan 23, 2018 at 10:09 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 9
Likes: 3
From: Saint inigoes MD
Forget about all those numbers.
The position of the sensor is correct when the lead wires to it are not "stressed".
Set number 1 piston on compression as per the link. (TDC, "top dead centre")
Line up the synchronizer tooth with the correct alignment tool and drop it in while the tool is in place.
It may take a few tries to get it right so the sensor wires reach comfortably to the sensor itself.
It can go in any way as long as the alignment tool keeps it in that position when it's dropped in place.
That's what I mean when I say "so the wires to the sensor are not stressed".
Just make sure that number 1 is at top dead centre and on compression.
Post again if you don't have the alignment tool.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine...9-3-0v-114186/
The position of the sensor is correct when the lead wires to it are not "stressed".
Set number 1 piston on compression as per the link. (TDC, "top dead centre")
Line up the synchronizer tooth with the correct alignment tool and drop it in while the tool is in place.
It may take a few tries to get it right so the sensor wires reach comfortably to the sensor itself.
It can go in any way as long as the alignment tool keeps it in that position when it's dropped in place.
That's what I mean when I say "so the wires to the sensor are not stressed".
Just make sure that number 1 is at top dead centre and on compression.
Post again if you don't have the alignment tool.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine...9-3-0v-114186/
Hi thanks for reply, So as long as it can still plug in it doesn’t matter what way the electrical connector on the camshaft pos sensor is pointing? Ok then I might have another problem, I set timing and everything sounds good but I get a hard jolt to the right like it’s ready to lock up then smooths out, and I diddent know that your not suppose to move your crank and set time with the synchronizer out cause they say it’ll throw off the fuel timing or something like that ,so my question is do you think I threw something off when I did this and that’s what’s cause my hard jolt? I thought the cam synchronizer was off a few degrees cause I got it at 15 degrees now but I guess that might not be the case lol
Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 2,022
Likes: 44
From: BC Canada
Not sure what you mean "hard jolt to the right" ??? Sounds more like the rear left brake is grabbing. I don't know how an engine problem would cause it to jolt to the right.
If you set number 1 at TDC and then line up the synchronizer with the tool, then you haven't thrown anything out.
If it has been driven around fro a while with the synchronizer in wrong, the PCM will have to learn the correct position (2 or 3 driving cycles).
This assumes that it was incorrect in the first place and is now correct.
Jolt could be caused by a sticky and or dirty IAC valve.
Also check your TPS sensor.
Are you still running the metal DPFE sensor ?
If you set number 1 at TDC and then line up the synchronizer with the tool, then you haven't thrown anything out.
If it has been driven around fro a while with the synchronizer in wrong, the PCM will have to learn the correct position (2 or 3 driving cycles).
This assumes that it was incorrect in the first place and is now correct.
Jolt could be caused by a sticky and or dirty IAC valve.
Also check your TPS sensor.
Are you still running the metal DPFE sensor ?
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 9
Likes: 3
From: Saint inigoes MD
Not sure what you mean "hard jolt to the right" ??? Sounds more like the rear left brake is grabbing. I don't know how an engine problem would cause it to jolt to the right.
If you set number 1 at TDC and then line up the synchronizer with the tool, then you haven't thrown anything out.
If it has been driven around fro a while with the synchronizer in wrong, the PCM will have to learn the correct position (2 or 3 driving cycles).
This assumes that it was incorrect in the first place and is now correct.
Jolt could be caused by a sticky and or dirty IAC valve.
Also check your TPS sensor.
Are you still running the metal DPFE sensor ?
If you set number 1 at TDC and then line up the synchronizer with the tool, then you haven't thrown anything out.
If it has been driven around fro a while with the synchronizer in wrong, the PCM will have to learn the correct position (2 or 3 driving cycles).
This assumes that it was incorrect in the first place and is now correct.
Jolt could be caused by a sticky and or dirty IAC valve.
Also check your TPS sensor.
Are you still running the metal DPFE sensor ?
The jolt is more of a stuttering shake like when an engine is getting ready to cut out or lock up and something “clunks” Then smothes out but it’s consistent and keeps doing it, I did an engine swap in the truck and only got one test drive in as my exhaust is fucked and I need a new one, so all my tests are being done in park, so it’s not brakes locking or anything of that sort. And they say your not suppose to turn the harmonic balancer when the synchronizer is out of the engine because it throws off fuel delivery but considering the timing chain connects cam and crank I don’t see how that’s possibles, but idk I’m trying to teach myself mechanics as I’m not a pro so I’m just asking all questions.Haven’t checked iac or tps sensors but will look into it thanks. And this 2004 doesn’t have an egr so it does not have a dpfe sensor but the 99 I pulled the engine out of had one but I swapped intake manifolds so the 2004 plenum bolts right on and doesn’t have any of the egr stuff. Thanks any information you have is a great help as I need this vehicle to go to work! Lol
Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 2,022
Likes: 44
From: BC Canada
Lets check the synchronizer with out removing it then.
Turn the crank until the "zero" mark on the dampener is lined up with the crank shaft position sensor.
Also make sure that number one cylinder is on compression, not on exhaust when you do this.
To make sure it's on compression, you can have a buddy put his finger over the spark plug hole.
He will feel the air being forced out the hole as the cylinder comes up on compression.
Stop at the "0" mark when the crank shaft position sensor is lined up with the mark, as in the link.
Now remove the sensor on top of the synchronizer.
Your plastic alignment tool should now fit down on top of it.
If it doesn't it has to be put right.
Know that the synchronizer tooth turns half the speed of the crank, so every two revolutions of the crank, the tooth on the synchronizer turns one revolution.
Pulling all the plugs makes it much easier to turn the engine by hand.
You have to make sure that the synchronizer is installed correctly before trouble shooting anything else.
Turn the crank until the "zero" mark on the dampener is lined up with the crank shaft position sensor.
Also make sure that number one cylinder is on compression, not on exhaust when you do this.
To make sure it's on compression, you can have a buddy put his finger over the spark plug hole.
He will feel the air being forced out the hole as the cylinder comes up on compression.
Stop at the "0" mark when the crank shaft position sensor is lined up with the mark, as in the link.
Now remove the sensor on top of the synchronizer.
Your plastic alignment tool should now fit down on top of it.
If it doesn't it has to be put right.
Know that the synchronizer tooth turns half the speed of the crank, so every two revolutions of the crank, the tooth on the synchronizer turns one revolution.
Pulling all the plugs makes it much easier to turn the engine by hand.
You have to make sure that the synchronizer is installed correctly before trouble shooting anything else.
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