New to this forum but an experienced shade tree mechanic and active on other non Ranger forums. I did search several times before asking the below.
Son has a 1998 Ranger base trim, super cab, 2 dr. 3.0L engine with 5 speed manual.
We are swapping in a reman 3.0L. I have found the rear engine plate cut into 3 pieces. Not too happy.
I called Ford with VIN info asking for P/N. He told me F3TZ7007A
I've searched for this new and used online. Ford says discontinued.
I do find lots of F3TZ7007B which is shown by Ford to be for 2006 and later Rangers. It sure looks like ours other than an extra hole in it.
I even found a used 1996 version where the extra hole is now corked. I will post pics of our cut up one, the new B version (sorry the part is flipped over so think in reverse pls)



, and the 1996 version with extra hole covered over.
I am tempted to buy the used one with hole covered.
Recommendations are certainly welcome please.

 

Sorry, I showed a clean version of F3TZ7007A, not our cut up one. Adding the original cut one in below. Thanks for your patience and guidance.

 

I bought the 96 Ranger rear plate and it came yesterday. Here is a picture with it mocked up on back of engine. The original plate had an extra aluminum ring around the starter. I will put transmission on with the plate and then experiment with whether the starter is in best position with or without the extra ring of aluminum. It is exactly same shape as the starter area of the plate. On a different note, the little hole has this cover tie wrapped on. My original plate had no hole. I will either pop rivet it on or small screws with Loctite. Mulling this over.

 

I found another ring plate that was apparently attached to large original plate. See first attachment and look close to the circular overlap. I used a caliper and measured 0.085" for that double thickness. I measured my new plate and its more thin. I thin moved ring plate over to the new plate, stacked them, and remeasured. I got the same 0.085". So, I will be using the ring plate with new Ebay purchased shim plate. I am taking over a "mess" where less experienced young men through all of the bolts into a big jar. I'm having to sort through the bolts to find what fits the right threaded holes and then decide which ones are right length. What a pain in a$$?

I have a question for anyway possibly still following my thread. I see lots of reads but only my own posted replies. Do the starter bolts stick out a bit past the nuts? I only found one of three that protrudes out about 1/4". The other 2 are right even with nut. One of those 2 actually might be about 1 thread short or clearing the nut. The 2nd picture shows the starter negative lead connected down where that slightly longer screw is. All of the screws are 13 mm hex head and 13 mm nuts on opposite side. All the other 13 mm hex head screws are too long to work as the longer ones are only partially threaded. The one screw has to be just right length to not push up into starter's solenoid.

I would greatly appreciate someone snapping a picture of their starter bolts as installed on the starter please. Thanks

 

I've made a little progress in my limited spare time. See picture with manual transmission now mounted to back of engine. 0.081" thick aluminum shim is in its place.