RPM'S won't drop between shifts (manual trans)
 

Ok so I've had this problem for awhile, when I shift gears and/or depress the clutch peddle my rpm's will not drop, well it likes to hover around 2000 rpm's, I know I'm throwing a code on my egr valve, could this be it? Please help, this has been pissing me off for soo long, thanks so much everyone!

on my duratec its because the tb has a hole under the butter fly that lets air into the motor so that it can burn excess fuel according to my owners manual. easy fix is to make a new gasket with a smaller hole. you didnt list any specs on your truck so depending how new it is could be your problem

Search the forum for IAC valve.
That is the most likely culprit.

Agree most likely the IAC is stuck...mine was doing the same thing before i cleaned it.

Clean the throttle body real good

Yep, pop the throttle body off - check a look at the IAC valve/spring area there - get some good carb cleaner (Dont Scrub it, just lightly clean it out with your fingers or a soft cloth) and you will notice an immediate fix to the problem :-) Same symptoms I had for a good couple months till I ddi it.. only took me ~30 minutes between pulling it off, cleaning it, letting it dry, adn putting it back on.

IAC and/or Throttle Position Sensor.

Alright guys thanks a lot! Im gonna try that out after work today and see if theres a difference, ill reply back on here later when i finish it up!

How did it work out for you?

Im curious too

Ok soo i took off the IAC and cleaned down all of it with carb cleaner, it had a little carbon build up but not horrible, I will say my engine doesnt race up as much anymore but it still does it occasionally, there has got to be something thats being over looked idk tho, anyone else got any ideas?

What about the TPS idea?

I didnt mess with the sensor yet, thats a good idea tho, i will have to check it out too!

Typical TP voltage at closed throttle is about 1.0V but 0.53~1.25V is within spec. Anything above 1.25V at closed throttle could cause RPMs to hang higher than normal.

Also, it still could be a problem with the IAC. Cleaning doesn't often fix it pemanently.

Yep it can sometimes make it worse. On my contour I had. The IAC was acting up just as you described. Took it to ford for a different reason. They decided to check it out. When I went to pick up the car they had made it worse. I would just replace it. If your vehicle has over 100k miles it wouldn't hurt. My contour only had 78k and it needed to be replaced. Its easy to replace too. Runs about 70 bucks.

This is a pretty old thread......
My 1996 B3000 had this problem and it was a broken secondary return spring on the TB. Unfortunately I couldn't locate the spring separately going through Mazda, Ford, or even RockAuto. I just MacGyvered it using a spring about the same length and it made it better. Dealer or Parts Yard will be glad to sell you a whole new TB though.............
Ram50Ron