slight miss and bad gas milage
#1
slight miss and bad gas milage
ok brain picking time again! '95 3.0 auto 4x4 4/3 double lift open diff 3.73 stock gears
ok just got the suspension lifted 4 inches but the gas mileage was way down before the lift. just rebuilt the top end with ds new head, due to broken bolts and threads broke off spark plug!
when i first got the truck, i was getting 21mpg now im around 10mpg, i do a lot of long distance driving!
at idle i can feel the miss, in town or at highway speed (around 70-80mph) she runs like a sewing machine on crack! no codes, and over time the only things i haven't replaced are the coil pack and the maf!
what are your alls thoughts and suggestions?
kobin
ok just got the suspension lifted 4 inches but the gas mileage was way down before the lift. just rebuilt the top end with ds new head, due to broken bolts and threads broke off spark plug!
when i first got the truck, i was getting 21mpg now im around 10mpg, i do a lot of long distance driving!
at idle i can feel the miss, in town or at highway speed (around 70-80mph) she runs like a sewing machine on crack! no codes, and over time the only things i haven't replaced are the coil pack and the maf!
what are your alls thoughts and suggestions?
kobin
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
On engines fuel rail will be the Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR), return fuel line is connected to it, and there is also a Vacuum Hose connected to it.
Remove vacuum hose and check it for gasoline
If FPR leaks, raw gas will be sucked into intake, MPG will go down and power will be GREAT, extra fuel, but if leak is big enough you should get Rich code
Another thing to test for is leaking injector
Turn on the key
Press gas pedal to the floor and HOLD IT DOWN ALL THE WAY.
Try to start engine
It should not start and should not even fire.
Gas pedal to the floor at 0 RPMs(Engine off) tells computer to start Clear Flooded Engine Routine
This turns off fuel injector pulses until gas pedal is released
So there should be no gasoline going into engine so no starting and no firing unless an injector is leaking(or FPR)
This "test" is also good to use on older engines, my 4.0l is at 400k and I do this every morning before starting, pumps up oil to the top of engine before starting :)
Pretty much every fuel injected engine has this routine in computer, not a Ford thing
Remove vacuum hose and check it for gasoline
If FPR leaks, raw gas will be sucked into intake, MPG will go down and power will be GREAT, extra fuel, but if leak is big enough you should get Rich code
Another thing to test for is leaking injector
Turn on the key
Press gas pedal to the floor and HOLD IT DOWN ALL THE WAY.
Try to start engine
It should not start and should not even fire.
Gas pedal to the floor at 0 RPMs(Engine off) tells computer to start Clear Flooded Engine Routine
This turns off fuel injector pulses until gas pedal is released
So there should be no gasoline going into engine so no starting and no firing unless an injector is leaking(or FPR)
This "test" is also good to use on older engines, my 4.0l is at 400k and I do this every morning before starting, pumps up oil to the top of engine before starting :)
Pretty much every fuel injected engine has this routine in computer, not a Ford thing
#7
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#8
#9
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Have you compensated for the odometer/speedometer change with bigger tires?
odometer will be setup for stock tire size, so with larger tire diameter vehicle will be traveling farther on each revolution of the axle or drive line
So if your using odometer as baseline for miles traveled it will be off, as will speedometer
If odometer says you have gone 150miles you may have actually gone 180miles, if you used 10gal then not 15MPG but 18MPG
odometer will be setup for stock tire size, so with larger tire diameter vehicle will be traveling farther on each revolution of the axle or drive line
So if your using odometer as baseline for miles traveled it will be off, as will speedometer
If odometer says you have gone 150miles you may have actually gone 180miles, if you used 10gal then not 15MPG but 18MPG
Last edited by RonD; 04-03-2017 at 10:29 AM.
#10
#11
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
yes and no, lol.
It varies by speed, your speedo can be off 5MPH at 40mph, and then off by 8MPH at 60mph, same tire size, so odometer would vary like speedometer does
Calculator here: https://tiresize.com/speedometer-calibration/
So depends on "average speed" and won't be as precise as regearing speedo hookup.
1997 and earlier Rangers still used a gear in transfer case(or trans) for speed signal
Rangers used 8 tooth DRIVE gears, I think, the DRIVEN gear is what you change, they are color coded
See what color gear you have now and then use stock tire diameter on below calculator, that will tell you if you have a 7 or 8 tooth DRIVE gear on the output shaft
Look here: Speedometer Gear Calculator and Charts - TCIŽ Auto
It varies by speed, your speedo can be off 5MPH at 40mph, and then off by 8MPH at 60mph, same tire size, so odometer would vary like speedometer does
Calculator here: https://tiresize.com/speedometer-calibration/
So depends on "average speed" and won't be as precise as regearing speedo hookup.
1997 and earlier Rangers still used a gear in transfer case(or trans) for speed signal
Rangers used 8 tooth DRIVE gears, I think, the DRIVEN gear is what you change, they are color coded
See what color gear you have now and then use stock tire diameter on below calculator, that will tell you if you have a 7 or 8 tooth DRIVE gear on the output shaft
Look here: Speedometer Gear Calculator and Charts - TCIŽ Auto
Last edited by RonD; 04-03-2017 at 06:49 PM.
#12
#13
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
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