The past few years I've been having problems with battery terminals cracking. The last ones I bought wouldn't even tighten to the negative post at all, when tight It would easily pull off it then cracked. Over the next week the positive side cracked and the bolt fell out somewhere, put in a bolt I had and headed to hopefully find some decent ones. These were new package stuff at Advance Auto. Found some old Car Quest made in USA lead warning ones that seem to be right. They tighten to the negative post with room to spare and no cracking so far.

 

I bet those other ones were made in China _ who knows what sort of reclaimed crap they were made of.
I have nickel plated brass ones on mine, they were a bit of a bother to install because the cables had to be soldered in, but they're in there now.

 

where ya get those jeff? bet they cost a arm, leg and your first born!

 

Just my local auto parts store (Lordco here if Canada)
I think they were around 5 or 6 bucks each.
These are even less expensive.

https://www.delcity.net/store/Straig...minals/p_14377

 

These are the ones I got. The individually packaged one have nuts on the cable clamp side, these carded ones are threaded and 14 bucks for ten. I hope I don't end up having to pull the soldering gun out for those nickle ones any time soon, I'm running out of positive cable.

 

You don't have to cut the wire back again to solder it.
A little hydrochloric acid and a Q-Tip does wonders.
There's a thread where I posted as how to clean really bad oxidized copper so it will take the solder.

 

Found it I think. My luck I would destroy something in the process.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...7/#post2108200

 

Get this, I had been having a vibration above 4k rpm I could feel through the truck, was thinking mounts or ????? I thought we had changed the water pump when the motor went in, not so. Yesterday the pump was leaking bad, found a long crack across the housing. Put a new pump on and the vibration is gone ! Maybe bearings or flex from the crack ?

 

That's the post...
I use that acid too clean rusty parts too, works better then sandblasting, everything comes out nice and grey, but you have to be quick to wash the acid off with soap and plenty of water or else it rusts right away again.

Maybe the crack in the water-pump housing was causing the bearing to be out of alignment with the rest of the pulleys ???
Never heard of such a thing though, but I'm seeing things here on these trucks that I've never seen on any other vehicles before.

Eg... rusty plugs, and not just a little rust, the plugs so rusted that the ceramic insulator blows out of the engine, leaving the rusted steal body in the head.
And cracked heads, usually cast iron is pretty stable and can tolerate some overheating, but apparently not these engines.

After reading about all these problems these trucks have, my British cars don't seem so bad.

 

I know that. I chased a #2 cylinder code for a bit before I eventually got the flashing engine light of death at around 200k miles. Read about the cylinder head service bulletin and just turned it off. Just kept on clearing codes, engine lights and another flashing light until it decided to stop sending them anymore. Valve clatter at high rpm for about 50k and it died at 297k. Can't really complain, that's a lot of miles. Trying to get a few more years out of it.

Got a 2000 4 banger auto in the driveway with 287k, that's a bunch of miles too. I let it sit too long and the fuel pump won't run. (wrecked by daughter and parked, new front bumper in the garage). I hope it might run, wish I could get fuel to it without buying a pump just to be sure. I had just did the timing belt. Would be nice to have a spare vehicle when I work on the other one.

They are dependable as heck hop in and go trucks.

 

Okay, got a pump coming. Reading a post here by an ex employee of Airtex that says they are made in America (probably not anymore since that was posted), but the picture looked identical to the Ford pump and it's all I can afford right now. I'll probably regret that. E2363M for my ext cab.

I don't know if it's flange is like my 2000 or like the 07 in the video below. Looks like all the fittings are like the filter, just press them in and pop off ? Screw driver/hammer to get that flange off and done ?

 

P0306 and P0316 codes today.

 

New pump, no change. Starts right up first thing in the morning, rest of day have to stay on the starter, sometimes twice to start and stumbles after started.

 

New pump, filter, iac valve.

I've noticed now that it smells rich when it does start.

 

replace your ckp sensor

 

Would that make the truck run rich ?

I'm almost ready to just start buying sensors. The hot engine wide open throttle no start test is good, so no leaking injectors ?

 

clear the codes, disconnect positive AND negative cables from battery touch them together for a few minuets, wait for around 15 min and then reinstall

drive the truck and recheck for codes and or smell

 

No luck, same result.

 

p 306 & p316 codes?

 

that would indicate your crank sensor is unplugged or bad connection or is defective

 

p 306 is misfire on cylinder 6

p316 is misfire on start up

 

how dose the plug look compared to the others?

 

they all should be a dry lite tanish color not wet and black!

 

The codes only came up the two times I posted them, after I was pumping the pedal it to keep it from dying once it started. Once it gets running it idles and runs pretty good down the road. If you turn it off it starts right back up fine, if it sit's it doesn't, unless it's overnight. Very strange.

 

Number 6 plug on top, 5 on bottom.