I saw the truck sitting in a local parking lot of a store for a few months now. I went in and he said he'd like to sell it, but him fixing what's currently wrong with it not on his priority list.

He said he'd sell the 97 XLT 4x4 v6 automatic as is for $3500. It only has 78k miles on it. He said there are two things wrong with it. It needs new u-joints in the back. The second could make or break the deal. The front driver side 4x4 won't engage and needs a new housing? I was in a rush and didn't ask him exactly what he meant. Anyway, the 4x4 won't engage and he said the part needed is around $200. I'm going back tomorrow and going to ask him more questions about it if he's working.

I'm very sorry that I'm vague on the issue with the 4x4. Are there are circumstances regarding fixing the 4x4 where $3500 is still worth it?

Also concerned with how old it is even considering the miles. I'm currently riding a 98 XLT 2wd 3l 6cyl and it gets decent MPG. Googling says both vehicles have the same MPG, but I find that hard to believe since the 97 is a v6 (safe to assume it's 4l?). Would appreciate any feed back. Thank you very much.

 

Rangers had 3.0l V6 from 1991 to 2008
4.0l OHV V6 from 1990-2000
4.0l SOHC V6 from 2001 to 2012

So 1997 could have either a 3.0l V6 or a 4.0l OHV V6
Or a 2.3l 4 cylinder, lol

No not "safe to assume" anything

1983 to 1997 4WD used auto hubs, most replaced these with manual hubs, my 1994 Auto hubs still work fine.
1998 -2000 used PVH(pulse vacuum hubs), which was a bad system, 2001 and up have "Live Axle" front wheels are locked to axle, same as rear wheels are, transfer case only selects 4WD or 2WD

Look in local craigslist or similar vehicle buy and sell, look at BY OWNER only ads
See what it is "worth" in your area.

A running pick up truck for any year usually stays above $800, working 4WD ads $200-$400
Anything over that is for looks and perceived longevity
Used vehicle can last 300k miles or 10 miles, "you pays your monies and you takes your chances", lol

 

Just ran the VIN. 4.0 v6.

In my area $3500 seems a tad bit better considering the miles. For example, 07 v6 140k miles for $4700. 03 6cyl 152k for $4400. 98 120k for $5400.

1997 is fairly old, but the low miles are nice. What I'd like to find out is how reliable the 97 v6 4l have been and if anyone on here has had one. If they had any issues, hows the gas mileage, etc.

Thank you for replying. Any input is greatly appreciated

 

1990-2000 4.0l OHV was a very reliable engine
One weak spot, overheating, if you EVER let them overheat you WILL crank a head maybe both heads, no "do-overs", lol.

But if you pull over when you lose a hose or water pump and don't let temp gauge get to HOT then you are fine, I know common sense but some engines can take it, 4.0l OHV can't

I am well past 300K on my 4.0l bottom end, I did replace one head, lol, tried to "make it home" when heater hose split, $5 hose and my own stupidity cost me about $450, if I had waited an hour for it to cool down I would have made $445 in that hour, lol, instead of spending it

1997 was the last year of 2nd generation Ranger, 1993-1997
1998-2012 are 3rd generation
1983-1992 is 1st generation

 

OK great. Seems like it's a quality engine if everything else is in working order. I'm going to talk to him tomorrow about the specific part to fix the 4x4 engagement.

How's the gas mileage on yours? Would you consider paying more for more miles but newer year?

 

Its a pig for gas, 14mpg around town, 16mpg if I am lucky, but I have a canopy and 500-600lb load in the back all the time
On long trips with light loads 18mpg is doable
1997 should do a bit better with sequential fuel injection, but its still a 4x4 and sits higher
Low to the ground, skinny tires and low weight are the MPG kings, 4x4 lacks all 3

 

That's disappointing. I tow a trailer with a scag mower 4 days out of the week. With my current 98 6cyl, 3.0, I get roughly 19ish

 

Just talked with the guy. He said the front driver side hub needs to be replaced. This is the reason the 4x4 won't engage. Does that sound right?

edit: Just did a little more research and came across this: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...iagnosis.shtml . I believe this answers my question. Apparently the automatic hubs seems to cause some problems with owners and it's recommended owners switch to manual hubs. After the current owner had told me the part to fix the 4 wheel drive was around $200 I was a little skeptical. In the end that price seems to be accurate.

For someone who would only use 4 wheel drive in the winter a few times, is it worth switch to manual hubs?

 

Auto hubs usually just needed to be cleaned and re-oiled

They didn't prevent transfer case from shifting into 4high or 4low and then back to 2WD, you could make sure it does that first.
More common issue is the electric shift motor on the transfer case not working, so no shifting from 2WD to 4WD
The 4WD lights on the dash are connected thru this shift motor, so if they come on in 4high and 4low then go off in 2WD that part is working
If they flash then 4WD control module or shift motor is not working

Damaged hub would just prevent front wheels from providing pulling power in 4WD

You can pick up manual hubs and parts at wrecking yards, also Auto hub parts since they no longer make them.
I wouldn't spend $200 on auto hub repair, manual hubs yes.

Doesn't matter how many times you might need 4WD, needing it ONCE and not having it is more to the point, and you don't know you don't have it until that time.
This is why Manual hubs and manual shift 4WD is best, reliable

 

Thank you for the information. I'm going to go test the switch next time I see him. If it is the transfer case, how much is that to be repaired?

 

Could be a $1 fuse or the shift motor, or even shift control module(GEM), so hard to say

 

Just went back down there to test to see it was the hub. When I turned on the 4x4 I could hear it engage and the light stayed solid. When I switched it to 4-low there was no light blinking or solid. Any reason for that?

 

When you turn on the key there is a "Bulb Test" both 4x4 lights should come on for a second or two

Could just be a burnt out bulb

4low does require 0MPH and clutch pedal to the floor or automatic transmission to be in Neutral
4high is "shift on the fly" so doesn't have those requirements

 

Yep just figured it out. Had to put it in neutral and wait a few seconds.

I purchased the truck. Thank you all for the help. Quick question about oil. If I wanted to switch to full synthetic oil should I start by doing a blend or simply go full synthetic. After some searching it seems that Castrol and Mobil 1 seem to be the go to oils to use