Hello all....I have a 2011 Sport with a 4.0 V6 140000+ miles I recently changed all the spark plugs and fuel filter. She runs like a top just the last couple weeks now when I go to start her up it cranks over but does not fire. Then I try again and she starts up. My concern is what could this be? Any incite on this would be great as buying a new truck is not something I want to do with prices the way they are.
Thanks
Jim

 

Welcome to the forum

Your fuel pressure may be dropping to 0psi when key is off, it should stay above 30psi for months and months

Try this
Turn key on, count to 3 and then turn key off
Turn key on again and try to start engine
If it starts right up then yes you are losing fuel pressure, usually inside the gas tank if you do not smell gasoline

For safety reasons the fuel pump only runs for 2 seconds when you turn the key on
It will not come on again until engine RPMs are above 400, cranking speed of starter motor is 200rpms
Turning the key on and off gets 4 seconds of pump "run time" so builds up lost pressure if that is what the issue is


Crank sensor
Its located at the front lower engine by the crank pulley
It reads a spinning "gear"(on crank pulley) with 35 teeth, and missing 1 tooth, that missing tooth gap tells the computer when #1 is at Top Dead Center so computer can time the spark
Look at the CEL(check engine light)
It will come on with key on, that means computer has booted up
When starter is activated then crank starts to spin and computer should get a good timing signal from crank sensor, if it does it will TURN OFF the CEL
So watch the CEL
If it goes off as soon as engine starts to spin then crank sensor is OK
If it stays on then no timing signal and no start
The Teeth on the crank pulley can get mud in them, this can make the "gap" harder to "see"
Longshot but not a no shot, lol

PATS, passive anti-theft system
There is a THEFT light on the dash
If this THEFT light starts to flash rapidly with key on then engine can not be started, but starter motor should also be disabled


Low battery voltage
12.2v or less at battery can cause slow and no start

12.8-13.0volt is a new battery, 100% capacity
12.5v is a 3 year old battery, 75% capacity
12.3v is a 5/6 year old battery, 50% capacity and time to shop for battery sales

 

ok I checked the crank wheel clean as a whistle. I did turn key to on position for a few seconds and started right up. Now that being said next morning I got into truck and just went to start it as usual and she started right up. Now fuel pressure should hold no matter what so how would that be checked? Replace fuel pump which I'm guessing is inside tank. Again thank you for the info.....Jim

 

Use the truck as normal.
Record when you shut it down for the day and when you fire it up in the morning.
Note the occasions when you have to give her a second try. This is simply priming the fuel system.
Note the time of day and see what you find.

Also, do you have a volt meter and do you know how to use it?
When you take voltage readings in the morning, write them down.
Use the numbers Ron provided.

Consider fuel pump AFTER this exercise.

My Ranger started OK and ran well (still does).
However, the battery that came with the truck was years old and measured <11 volts.
I was lucky. I shopped fast and found a fresh one. Don't go cheap on even a new battery. A Home Depot "auto department" near me had batteries over a year old with dust.
Patronize sellers who deliver fresh batteries. .

 

+1 ^^^^

Ford dropped the fuel pressure test port on the 4.0l engines in 2002 or so
You can add one
On the engine are two Fuel Rails, long tubes connected to fuel line and the 6 injectors, one on each side of the upper intake
On one end of one rail you might see a Schrader valve with a cap, a schrader valve is a tires air valve, so looks like that but metal, works the same as well
You probably don't have one but free to look, and that's the test port for fuel pressure

At one end of the fuel rail, usually on passenger side near firewall, is the pressure damper, not a test port, should have vacuum hose attached, it prevents pulse waves from building up in the rails as injectors open and close, just FYI

Its not an immediate problem and it won't cause a No Start one day, so just keep an eye out if it gets worse

 

ok....checked battery was replaced this year in January 12.8-13.0 volts it did not start the first cranking yesterday morning. 2nd round of cranking fires right up. The fuel issue does sound like the cause and again replacing the fuel pump maybe? Injectors need attention?? Cleaning or replacing....just want to cover all bases pertaining to fuel delivery. As far as I'm concerned the engine should fire the first time every time, I live in Florida so temps are a non issue. Frustrating as this will only get worse IMO and leave me stranded.....

 

Were it my vehicle, I'd try dosing the tank with Techron Concentrate. The PEA is said to nibble away at dirty injector nozzles upon shutdown.
This is why it's used before a stint of local driving, not a long highway run. Pour in a 20 ounce bottle or even two 12 ounce bottles. Nice doses for our 18 gallon tanks.

The next thing I'd consider is changing my fuel filter.
Is your air filter clogged with dirt....unlikely but worth a look.
Also, just for grins, look at your throttle body for gooky dirt.

While burning through two tanksful of treated fuel, note the times and number of attempts needed to start. You'll see improvement or not.
During this time you can find a garage you'd use for the fuel pump change out.
I'm pretty sure people familiar with these trucks recommend Motorcraft replacement pumps as they are tested before they go in the box.
Cheaper ones fail often.

 

yeah so I looked at replacement fuel pumps sticking with Ford Motorcraft the part is $400-$600 depending on model#...what happened to prices!! Replacing the pump should be doable as I can just slide the bed back a couple feet exposing access to pump in tank. Let you all know how it goes.

 

All the Motorcraft parts are tested before being boxed and shipped and that is expensive, and they usually have only a 90 day warranty

3rd party parts are just boxed and shipped, and have a 1 or 2 year warranty, and are 1/4 to 1/2 the price of Motorcraft parts
But in the case of Fuel pumps and the labor involved in swapping it out, I bite the bullet and go with Motorcraft
On other parts that are not hard to swap I go with 3rd party

Don't forget to unscrew the filler and unplug the tail lights when you move the bed

You can also tilt the bed up once the filler and bed bolts are out, so taillights can stay plugged in

 

Ron
You are so correct the saying-You get what you pay for...especially with car parts with all the chinese knock offs. Summit Racing has the Motorcraft part for $309.00 so I guess I just have to keep telling myself all the labor I'm saving by doing it myself. Hopefully nothing broken in the process.....