4.0 sohc rattle noise?
#29
not yet, its 600 bc they dont have to replace the part in the back of the motor... they said that all they gotta do is pop the radiator out and do the front. mech said only time you need to do the rear is when the chain breaks and messes everything up. if you do it before all that just the front. im not gonna do it till after summer, i dont hear it as often anymore. im bout to spend 500 in suspension mods/fixes. gettin 4 new shocks, both in/out TREs, both UCAs w/ BJs, and an allignment to follow. im keepin the truck for a couple more yrs (as long as nothing happens to it) so its gonna get quite a few mods. the very last thing will be the superlift. need to get the whole doghouse repainted and do some engine tuning/upgrading.
#30
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not yet, its 600 bc they dont have to replace the part in the back of the motor... they said that all they gotta do is pop the radiator out and do the front. mech said only time you need to do the rear is when the chain breaks and messes everything up. if you do it before all that just the front. im not gonna do it till after summer, i dont hear it as often anymore. im bout to spend 500 in suspension mods/fixes. gettin 4 new shocks, both in/out TREs, both UCAs w/ BJs, and an allignment to follow. im keepin the truck for a couple more yrs (as long as nothing happens to it) so its gonna get quite a few mods. the very last thing will be the superlift. need to get the whole doghouse repainted and do some engine tuning/upgrading.
#31
#34
Hah, I'd bet you a grand you couldn't do it. No offense, but there are no keyways or marks or any of that stuff to set the timing. There are special tools that align everything, and then a single bolt in the middle of every gear at the end of every shaft is tightened and torqued to a certain spec. The clamping pressure is all that holds it. The tools alone cost our shop $800, and that was our cost. An over the counter regular customer will pay over a grand for just the tools. Also, this ain't no small block chevy/ford. You have to pull the engine completely out of the truck (which isn't too bad) because there is a chain at the back of the engine. Heck, one of the block plugs that covers an access hole for the rear lower bolt is inside the trans bell housing. There is no way around pulling the engine... These engines are very very complex and a beotch to set the time on. Don't get me wrong, with the proper tools, Im sure a lot of people on here could figure it out. But it isn't for the average Joe or shade-tree mechanic. It would be more practical to run it till it blows then find a low mileage JY replacement to swap in. Hope I haven't offended anybody, but I have built one of these engines before, and it definitely isn't easy. EXTREME care must be taken to get the timing set correctly, and if its off, you get cam syncro codes... then you get to do it all again.
I can't remember how much the kit costs, but it comes with new chains, gears, tensioners, and the bolts. I would also recommend changing the oil pump.
I can't remember how much the kit costs, but it comes with new chains, gears, tensioners, and the bolts. I would also recommend changing the oil pump.
ive done about 5 sets or more of SOHC chains, the two front and the rear. if you are going to do them, you better be pretty mechanically inclined and replace ALL of them, dont let anyone else tell you otherwise. you got the motor out, do it once, do it right. replace the oil pump, and as many gaskets as you can afford to.
#38
#41
According to Ford its only a noise or else it would have been made a recall. I have had the noise for who knows how long and my engine still runs strong at 127K miles. It just can't hold its own blood in.
#42
#43
All this talk of it being fixed for 04+ may not be completely true. In the past few months i have started to notice it on my 04, or what i assume it is. Sounds like what ive heard it sounds like and it happens between 2500 and just over 3000 rpm. The engine has 105000km on it.
#44
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