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4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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Old 06-25-2010
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4.0 valve train noise

the valve train on my motor is nocking pretty good. i know its my valve train because the knocks are high in the motor and i checked it with a stethiscope (sp). i need some help in adjusting it. so how and what is needed to adjust the valve train on my motor?

thanks you for the help

shane
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Old 06-25-2010
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mine is the same way ma ad i was told that its a ranger thig and nothign is really wrong... but imma keep an eye in here and see what you get
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Old 06-25-2010
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Most engines need to have the valves adjusted as preset maintenance. Usually something like 100k miles I think
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Old 06-25-2010
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and supposedly has been fixed on 06+ trucks i think! :D
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Old 06-25-2010
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How do you fix wear/spring fatigue before it happens?
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Old 06-26-2010
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this motor does have 120,000 miles on it and i do know that the the valve train knock will all ways be there. this is my third in 175,000 miles. so im gonna do every thing possible to keep it alive. all the help would be great.

shane
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Old 06-26-2010
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The valvetrain on the 4.0 are not abjustable
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Old 06-26-2010
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the 4.0 has poor oil circulation in the heads so there is excessive valvetrain wear.
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Old 06-29-2010
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Unless you have some crazy mileage, your valvetrain is probably fine. You are probably confusing it with the noises from piston slap which is common for 1998 & 1999 because of offset wrist pins. What rpm range are you hearing this?
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Old 07-03-2010
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the motor has close to 140,000. the noise is really not that bad. i just thinking that you have toset the gaps of the rockers if you remove the rocker assembly. so with the motor having this much milage i figured it would bee a good idea to reset the gaps. the noise is mainly at idle. but right now i got to deal with a new noise but that is a whole nother thread.

thanks for all the help.
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Old 11-10-2011
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I have a 94 4.0 OHV. I have over 500.000 miles on it and put almost 400.000 on the first motor. I had my first motor replaced with a Jasper rebuild. I was only running on 5 cylinders on the old motor and neither my mechanic or Ford could figure out why. I finally figured it out through extensive on line research about the poor oiling going on to the valve train and that over time the pushrods would wear a dimple in the bottom of the rocker arms.

There is a fix for this and that is an upgraded rocker arm assembly with hardened inserts and the hardened push rods. Make sure the oil pump is working properly and there are no restrictions and run a thinner oil that can get to the valve train easier. I have a little over 100.000 on this new motor and it is making noise and ready for the upgrade. Try Delta Cams for the kit, about $200.00 and an easy install once you get the valve covers off. The valve train is not adjustable on these motors.
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Old 11-17-2011
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I have the same problem at idle. The engine makes a pretty good knocking noise. I only have 120k on my truck and I don't know if it might cause problems. When I fist start up the truck there is no read on the oil gauge and after a minute it starts flickering and shoots up to normal. Is this a problem? It seems to happen only in the winter..
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Old 11-20-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offduty View Post
There is a fix for this and that is an upgraded rocker arm assembly with hardened inserts and the hardened push rods. Make sure the oil pump is working properly and there are no restrictions and run a thinner oil that can get to the valve train easier. I have a little over 100.000 on this new motor and it is making noise and ready for the upgrade. Try Delta Cams for the kit, about $200.00 and an easy install once you get the valve covers off. The valve train is not adjustable on these motors.
i am putting these on mine right now and its 180 for the parts and shipping and when u send ur shafts back u get 42 back for the core. its really a pretty good deal. thats rockers that have inserts, tips hardened, refurbished shafts, and a new set of pushrods.

if u are super serious about fixing what u have ur only option would be longer pushrods but thats a pretty precise operation figuring out what you need so u need to do some research or have soemone who knows how help you. not doubting ur abilities but if they are wrong ur gonna smash valves and ruin ur motor.
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Old 11-20-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skj283 View Post
i am putting these on mine right now and its 180 for the parts and shipping and when u send ur shafts back u get 42 back for the core. its really a pretty good deal. thats rockers that have inserts, tips hardened, refurbished shafts, and a new set of pushrods.

if u are super serious about fixing what u have ur only option would be longer pushrods but thats a pretty precise operation figuring out what you need so u need to do some research or have soemone who knows how help you. not doubting ur abilities but if they are wrong ur gonna smash valves and ruin ur motor.
Since you are replacing the rocker arm assembly and pushrods that puts you back to factory clearances and different push rods are not necessary as the ones you get are hardened and there is a seat in the rocker arms that is hardened where the push rods contact them. That is where the problem lies due to poor oiling up top not where the rods ride on the cam. Longer pushrods will only cause you problems and the kit addresses the issue.
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  #15  
Old 12-07-2011
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Replaced my pushrods and rocker arm assembly today on a 4.0 OHV. Used the Delta Cam kit with the hardened inserts in the rockers and hardened rods and got about 20% more power out of the truck. Huge difference, obviously I had worn some dimples in the rocker arms from the rods. Took me about 5 hours and $200.00 bones but sure was worth it. The stock rocker arm assembly and rods suck and will start causing problems after about 100.000 miles. Basically they wont open all the way and the power really starts to suffer. This motor is known for poor oiling up top and this is what happens but the delta cam kit is the fix.
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Old 05-12-2013
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I recently acquired a 2000 Ranger XLT with 204,000 miles on it. The engine has been changed with a long block and not knowing what all it came with. It has a horrible noise, I am assuming the valve train noise. I put an additive in it to "flush" the lube system and then changed the oil and filter. I used the recommended 5W30 oil and a Motorcraft filter. The noise is still there but after running it for about 10 miles and getting the engine hot, the noise is gone at idle. If you tap the throttle to raise the rpm just a little, the noise is there but goes away when it returns to idle. The truck sat for 7 months, I put Chemtool in the gas which I haven't added any fresh gas to the tank yet. The engine runs great and smooth, just the noise which I have read doesn't seem to hurt anything. Any suggestions?
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