This is on my 2003 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0L Job2 motor. It's a RBV.

Ok, after having to replace the spark plugs/ wires a couple times and just other things I've worked on the motor I'm ready to take off the A/C Compressor and lines to the heater box completely.

Alot of guys tell me that they just unplug the compressor and pull the fuses but I want it gone completely.

Got a couple questions...

I know that some Rangers came without A/C, so the serpentine belt from a 4.0L A/C delete Ranger should work, right?

1. Can this be done without screwing up the heating/ cooling system (computer, etc.)?

2. Do they make a belt for a A/C delete 4.0L?

3. What all would need to be done to make this possible?

I figure if I this is possible then I'll shave off alot of weight from the frontend (help with the dreaded "Ranger Lean" and have less drag on the motor. I don't use the A/C so it's just added weight, drag on the motor and in the way.

As much info with or without pictures, links to other threads, projects, sites would be awesome.

Thanks ya'll.

 

I just removed the compressor, condenser and lines off today. I capped of the fitting until I get around to swapping out the heater box to a A/C delete Ranger box.

 

So removing the compressor means you have to re-wire the fusebox? Or get a new fuse box?

I have the same issue, I want to remove the power steering pump, but the belt is only made or NO power steering, NO A/C.

I didn't think about the electrical aspect, but would be interested in finding out how you did it before proceeding..

Thanks,
Steve

 

Sorry, I haven't checked this thread for a while snce there weren't many responses, been busy with work and my 6 month old son.

No, you don't have to do anything to the fuse box. Just remove the condensor, compressor and lines and cap off the tube coming from the dryer/ heater box. use electrical tape to cover the pigtails from the wiring to the compressor. That's it.

 

To get the correct size belt after you remove the compressor and or the power steering pump you simply just cut the old belt, rap the belt in the configuration needed on the pulley's and mark where the ends meet up now, measure the length and that will give you the belt length you'll need for the new belt.

 

Safest way to do it. does anyone have one?

 

I looked at those but didn't want to deal with another pulley that will eventually go bad and have in the way. I had a power steering bypass pulley on my '87 GMC Sonoma Show Truck 2.5 IronDuke and it went bad once every couple years.

 

For 40 bucks I thought it would last.

 

It would probably last alot longer on the 4.0 motor. I had one on my built up 234 H.P., 374 Ft Lb. Trq. 2.5 IronDuke motor that was made for drifting so it had alot of tension on the pulley.