4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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Old Feb 10, 2011
  #26  
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That picture just looks like the standard honeycomb material that is in all cats.. I can't really tell you which is the resonator without seeing your truck in person. The larger one should be the cat though.



GB :)
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011
  #27  
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Yeah the sad part is I did have a flashlight held up to it. The pictures are from my cell phone so they're pretty bad, but I don't have another camera.

From what I can see, it looks like I have 4 catalytic converters. The reason I said "unfortunately this is what i found" is because that the picture is from the cat that I could straight-pipe without a problem. The fact that it is fine means that the block is in one of the cats with O2 sensors around it meaning that I need to replace the cat rather than just straight-piping that section unless I want a CEL...
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011
  #28  
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If you have any Pick-n-Pull or Pull-a-Part yards near you then you can get a cat for dirt cheap.



GB :)
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011
  #29  
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Yeah, I don't know. I am experiencing more symptoms now and it's getting a little out of control so I'm going to bring the truck to the garage tomorrow and have a mechanic check it out. I really hate to though.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011
  #30  
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what are the symptoms now?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011
  #31  
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Well I have a write-up that I was just going to give to my mechanic because I thought it would help him out and thus cost me less money, if you would like to see it...
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011
  #32  
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2002 Ford Ranger Edge 4x4 4.0L SOHC V6
December 2010- Changed Spark Plugs (OEM Motorcraft Platinum Plugs)
Changed Spark Plug Wires (Autolite Brand)
*These new wires caused the engine to misfire badly. The truck was driven about 20 miles while still misfiring and was fixed 3 days later. While misfiring, I noticed that one catalytic converter glowed red hot after climbing up 61.
January 2011-Cleaned MAF sensor
Cleaned TPS and Throttle Body
Fixed Transmission Fluid Cooler Line Leak
February 2011- Symptoms:
Terrible Acceleration
-5 MPG
Crackling Noise from Catalytic Converter
Blinking O/D off Light
Noise from fan
Noise from transmission
*I cut the exhaust after the last catalytic converter and checked the honeycomb inside it and looked perfect. The blockage must be in a different catalytic converter. The one I checked was not the same one that glowed red.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011
  #33  
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Are you perhaps having very firm shifts?
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Ranger093
Are you perhaps having very firm shifts?
Yes! Yes I am. Why do you have an idea?!?
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011
  #35  
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Are you thinking that it could be the TPS? That is the only other thing I can think of before I go ahead with messing with the cats...
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011
  #36  
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Yeah, I'm thinking MAF I once had a MAF go out and I got SUPER hard shifts with the OD light flashing and it had no ***** past 60 or so I'd say.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011
  #37  
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That sounds about right man. How much do one of those things cost?
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011
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Originally Posted by Giraffe02
That sounds about right man. How much do one of those things cost?
Well if you have a JunkYard around go pick up a used one around 30. If its not the issue return it. If not new from a auto store not motorcraft probably like 80
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011
  #39  
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What autoparts store should I go to because I don't think advance auto parts sells it.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011
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Napa, just looked on Google maps only other place besides a junkyard by you. I recommend the junk yard first. Idk if napa would have one, I got to O'riley auto parts for everything by me.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2011
  #41  
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Wow, thanks a lot man for all of the help and to be honest, I have never even heard of an O'Rileys around here. There could be one, I just haven't heard of it I guess...
 
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Old Feb 12, 2011
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Originally Posted by Giraffe02
Haha, me being stupid and not replacing one plug wire at a time and taking them all off because I thought it would save time. Basically, I screwed up which wires go to which cylinder, which caused the misfire. It was a combination of that and a cracked spark plug. The truck still drove though, roughly, but it still got me from home to school and back.
Been there done that

I was misfiring for like a week because of that. Luckily I had zero problems.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2011
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Masteratarms93
Been there done that

I was misfiring for like a week because of that. Luckily I had zero problems.
Yeah I'm hoping it's just my MAF or TPS. I'll update it tomorrow when I fix those things. If it's not that, then the only thing I can think of is the blocked-catalytic converter.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2011
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Giraffe02
Yeah I'm hoping it's just my MAF or TPS. I'll update it tomorrow when I fix those things. If it's not that, then the only thing I can think of is the blocked-catalytic converter.
It's possible that K&N cooked your MAF. Have you added oil to the filter?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011
  #45  
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Yeah I think I actually added too much oil and didn't let it dry properly. The directions say 2 hours for drying the oil. I let it sit for all of about 10 minutes and called it good. I think the oil from the filter got sucked through and fouled out the MAF. I'm going to try to clean it and see if that does anything because I really don't feel like paying for another one...
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Giraffe02
Yeah I think I actually added too much oil and didn't let it dry properly. The directions say 2 hours for drying the oil. I let it sit for all of about 10 minutes and called it good. I think the oil from the filter got sucked through and fouled out the MAF. I'm going to try to clean it and see if that does anything because I really don't feel like paying for another one...
Oh yeah that's defiantly your problem. Every knows you aren't supposed to add oil to those things. Bad idea.

Oh so listen up, you need to replace that MAF FOR SURE. That is defiantly your problem. That also explains the glowing red Cat because you dumped so much fuel into it it was probably literally on fire in there. You also need to clean out your intake THOROUGHLY, and you need to put your stock intake back on. I know it sucks that you don't get to use it but when those K&Ns get oiled up they cook your MAF and cause sensor damage. You should probably run a dry filter. So you COULD leave the CAI on but put on a dry filter. So back to cleaning it you need like 2-3 can of MAF cleaner or electronics cleaner. Pull the intake all apart, up to the intake manifold. Take the IAC off and the throttle body to. It just a few bolts, nothing hard. Generously spray out ALL OF IT. The tubing and everything. When you do the throttle body use some paper towels and clean out all the black carbon and stuff. Let it all dry, it doesn't take long with the electronics/MAF cleaner, put it back together with the new MAF. I would also recommend clearing the computer by disconnecting the battery and leaving the headlight switch on for 30 minutes to clear any bad mixtures habits out. Then reconnect the battery and drive around a bit. It will run rich for a bit while it relearns the MAF and what mixture it should have. Then it will be good. Lesson learned about oil filters.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Masteratarms93
Oh yeah that's defiantly your problem. Every knows you aren't supposed to add oil to those things. Bad idea.

Oh so listen up, you need to replace that MAF FOR SURE. That is defiantly your problem. That also explains the glowing red Cat because you dumped so much fuel into it it was probably literally on fire in there. You also need to clean out your intake THOROUGHLY, and you need to put your stock intake back on. I know it sucks that you don't get to use it but when those K&Ns get oiled up they cook your MAF and cause sensor damage. You should probably run a dry filter. So you COULD leave the CAI on but put on a dry filter. So back to cleaning it you need like 2-3 can of MAF cleaner or electronics cleaner. Pull the intake all apart, up to the intake manifold. Take the IAC off and the throttle body to. It just a few bolts, nothing hard. Generously spray out ALL OF IT. The tubing and everything. When you do the throttle body use some paper towels and clean out all the black carbon and stuff. Let it all dry, it doesn't take long with the electronics/MAF cleaner, put it back together with the new MAF. I would also recommend clearing the computer by disconnecting the battery and leaving the headlight switch on for 30 minutes to clear any bad mixtures habits out. Then reconnect the battery and drive around a bit. It will run rich for a bit while it relearns the MAF and what mixture it should have. Then it will be good. Lesson learned about oil filters.
The thing is, that I really don't want to replace the MAF considering that it's $200+ so I'm going to try to clean it all out like you said and see if it's better. If not I guess a new MAF is the only option...
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011
  #48  
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From: Goose Creek SC
Originally Posted by Giraffe02
The thing is, that I really don't want to replace the MAF considering that it's $200+ so I'm going to try to clean it all out like you said and see if it's better. If not I guess a new MAF is the only option...
yeah thats pretty much your options. hope that you can clean it up or you will have to replace it. $200 mistake.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011
  #49  
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I cleaned the MAF and replaced the TPS and the truck runs better without a doubt. It has much better acceleration, now it just doesn't go up hills to save its life.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011
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Originally Posted by Giraffe02
I cleaned the MAF and replaced the TPS and the truck runs better without a doubt. It has much better acceleration, now it just doesn't go up hills to save its life.
I would save up and get a new MAF. I'm sure it's pretty damaged.

Or maybe you damaged the cat enough that it needs replaced.
 
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