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4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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  #26  
Old 03-13-2009
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WTF?
480.00 for a set of ARP head studs???
1600.00 for a set of "street ported" heads??
200.00 for ARP rod bolts??
375.00 for a cam??

meh....I'll pass.
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  #27  
Old 03-13-2009
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supercharge it
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  #28  
Old 03-13-2009
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where'd you get those prices?
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  #29  
Old 03-13-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathbypsi View Post
WTF?
480.00 for a set of ARP head studs???
1600.00 for a set of "street ported" heads??
200.00 for ARP rod bolts??
375.00 for a cam??

meh....I'll pass.
You can't build an engine for $200.
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  #30  
Old 03-13-2009
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Originally Posted by fddriver02 View Post
You can't build an engine for $200.
Would YOU pay 480.00 for studs? prices came right from the Morana site.

I am WELL versed in motor building and those prices are rediculous.I am the fricking king of doing more with less
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  #31  
Old 03-13-2009
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Originally Posted by chainfire View Post
Look up about 7-8 posts, I posted it
woops over looked that.
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  #32  
Old 03-13-2009
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Here's my 4.0L specs.

-91 short block, stock with the exception of an oil pan from a SOHC.

-95TM heads - ports just cleaned up & matched to the intake.

-Comp 988 springs installed with stock valves, locks & retainers(no machining required).

-Comp 422 cam & smith brothers push rods 5.55" long.

-Stock rocker assemblies with aluminum spacers between the rockers instead of the springs.

-Lower intake - port matched & smoothed around the injector bosses.

-Borla headers into a single 3" catless exhaust.

With the factory tune, on a Mustang dyno, this combination put down 174 rwhp & 221 rwtq. It has a nice broad torque band & even with 4.10's still gets 25mpg on the highway

Here's a link to it as TOTM on RPS in 2003 http://www.rangerpowersports.com/totm/?p=10
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  #33  
Old 03-13-2009
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Originally Posted by Tee Rev View Post
Here's my 4.0L specs.

-91 short block, stock with the exception of an oil pan from a SOHC.

-95TM heads - ports just cleaned up & matched to the intake.

-Comp 988 springs installed with stock valves, locks & retainers(no machining required).

-Comp 422 cam & smith brothers push rods 5.55" long.

-Stock rocker assemblies with aluminum spacers between the rockers instead of the springs.

-Lower intake - port matched & smoothed around the injector bosses.

-Borla headers into a single 3" catless exhaust.

With the factory tune, on a Mustang dyno, this combination put down 174 rwhp & 221 rwtq. It has a nice broad torque band & even with 4.10's still gets 25mpg on the highway

Here's a link to it as TOTM on RPS in 2003 http://www.rangerpowersports.com/totm/?p=10
BINGO! Thats what I was lookin for!

Thanks.

Did you make the spacers?
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  #34  
Old 03-13-2009
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I sure did!
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  #35  
Old 03-13-2009
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Originally Posted by Tee Rev View Post
I sure did!
Would you care to give some details on this? Why did you do it? Have any specs for making my own set?
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  #36  
Old 03-13-2009
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Originally Posted by deathbypsi View Post
Would YOU pay 480.00 for studs? prices came right from the Morana site.

I am WELL versed in motor building and those prices are rediculous.I am the fricking king of doing more with less
Yes I would if I was running boost. It is the difference between blowing headgaskets and burning tires.
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  #37  
Old 03-13-2009
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Originally Posted by deathbypsi View Post
Would you care to give some details on this? Why did you do it? Have any specs for making my own set?
The main reason was to get more oil going to the rocker tips instead of having it bleed out the sides. It seems to have worked as after 20,000 kms the rocker assemblies showed absolutely no signs of wear, even with the more aggressive cam.

I basically measured the rocker assemblies while they were installed on the head. When I machined the spacers I made them a length that allowed .005-.01" clearance for each rocker as well as with a bore .002" larger than the shaft(sorry I don't remember the exact dimensions I made them). When I installed the rocker assemblies I used shim stock to keep the gaps while I torqued everything down & then removed the shim stock.

Trev
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  #38  
Old 03-13-2009
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Originally Posted by fddriver02 View Post
Yes I would if I was running boost. It is the difference between blowing headgaskets and burning tires.
Then you sir are crazy!

Arp head studs for the last 2.3 turbo motor I built were 105.00
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku

There is no reason to charge almost 500.00 for a set of fasteners. If I had to use those with a boosted motor I wouldnt boost the motor.


Thanks Trev, I will look into doing the same.
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  #39  
Old 03-13-2009
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Originally Posted by korey89 View Post
I wouldn't waste my time doing all that, I'd just do a 302 swap. Isn't it really easy on trucks like yours too since they don't have the PATS keys and some of the other stuff?
we have pats
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  #40  
Old 03-14-2009
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Trev, how does that cam fit clearance wise? Any piston flycutting needed?Do you know what the clearance was? I was leaning more towards the Comp 410 to be on the safe side.
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  #41  
Old 03-14-2009
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There are no clearance issues at all.

The 422 cam is really a very mild cam, it's just the biggest that you can get unless you go custom grind.

It was originally designed for a boosted application, but works very well N/A.

Personally I wouldn't bother with the 410 unless a perfect idle is what your after.

Here's a link to a video of me doing a 1/4 mile test on a dyno. you can listen to how well it idles ..... and how it roars!

http://members.shaw.ca/tomak/quartmile.wmv
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  #42  
Old 03-14-2009
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okay, so i'll ask:

is your ranger even capable of towing your BII? what type of towing are we talking about here? 16'/18' car trailer? what's the expected wieght? what does a BII weigh?

i'm talking about legality and safety. max trailer weight on your truck might be 5000lbs with an equalizing hitch.

you need to be sure that you've got everything considered. the weight of both vehicles full of fluids, and any extra fluids. spare tire and other spare parts. recovery gear. food and drink. camping supplies.

you might be over weight. it's just not safe!
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  #43  
Old 03-14-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tee Rev View Post
There are no clearance issues at all.

The 422 cam is really a very mild cam, it's just the biggest that you can get unless you go custom grind.

It was originally designed for a boosted application, but works very well N/A.

Personally I wouldn't bother with the 410 unless a perfect idle is what your after.

Here's a link to a video of me doing a 1/4 mile test on a dyno. you can listen to how well it idles ..... and how it roars!

http://members.shaw.ca/tomak/quartmile.wmv

Dang! that sounds so good.
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  #44  
Old 03-14-2009
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Originally Posted by big-blue-oval View Post
okay, so i'll ask:

is your ranger even capable of towing your BII? what type of towing are we talking about here? 16'/18' car trailer? what's the expected wieght? what does a BII weigh?

i'm talking about legality and safety. max trailer weight on your truck might be 5000lbs with an equalizing hitch.

you need to be sure that you've got everything considered. the weight of both vehicles full of fluids, and any extra fluids. spare tire and other spare parts. recovery gear. food and drink. camping supplies.

you might be over weight. it's just not safe!
Theres several guys on here that have towed cars behind their trucks.

Hopefully his trailer has brakes though, That always helps a ton.
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  #45  
Old 03-14-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big-blue-oval View Post
okay, so i'll ask:

is your ranger even capable of towing your BII? what type of towing are we talking about here? 16'/18' car trailer? what's the expected wieght? what does a BII weigh?

i'm talking about legality and safety. max trailer weight on your truck might be 5000lbs with an equalizing hitch.

you need to be sure that you've got everything considered. the weight of both vehicles full of fluids, and any extra fluids. spare tire and other spare parts. recovery gear. food and drink. camping supplies.

you might be over weight. it's just not safe!
You make all very good points. I have concidered all of those things already.

My truck has a AAL in the rear to help with the extra weight,I am getting a equalizer bar setup for my trailer and I am adding brakes to both axles of my 16' hauler. I wont use the Ranger to haul very far,if I need to make a long haul I will just trade my old man trucks for the day.I have pulled about 4000lbs with my Ranger in the past on a 300 mile trip and it was ok.My trailer is 1200lbs and my best guess would be my B2 is around 3500 so after all my upgrades are done it wont pull like a Superduty but it should be ok for the few times I use it.
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  #46  
Old 03-15-2009
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that's fair, and a good answer. it was my first concern when i read the OP that you were expecting too much from a ranger.
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  #47  
Old 03-15-2009
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your not gonna do anything for cheap so you can forget that idea.
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  #48  
Old 03-15-2009
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Originally Posted by yfzman450 View Post
your not gonna do anything for cheap so you can forget that idea.
Forget what?
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  #49  
Old 03-15-2009
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Why do I keep seeing a year break in the year of the heads? Whats the diff between 91-95 and the 96-99 heads?
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  #50  
Old 03-16-2009
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So far so good.

Bought a complete headgasket set with head bolts for 83.00
Got a timing set with guides and tentioner for 43.00
Ordered a Comp 422 cam for 265.00
Timing cover gasket set for 10.00

I will wait till I get the heads off before I decide if Im re-doing mine or buyin new heads to start with.
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