Can oil pan be removed with engine in truck? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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  #1  
Old 12-21-2013
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Can oil pan be removed with engine in truck?

I am in the process of removing the engine, but the engine is locking up when I go to turn it over and get the converter bolts out. Maybe if I can get the pan off I can figure out whats locking it up, so i can get the bolts out and yank the motor.
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Old 12-21-2013
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Truck is a 1999 4.0 OHV 4x4
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Old 12-21-2013
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Not sure about the OHV, but the SOHC ladder frame/upper oil pan won't come out unless you drop the front axle. Sounds like a lot of work for possibly not a lot of payoff.

Do you know if the motor is seized or otherwise broken mechanically?

You can always try putting a bit more force on it with a breaker bar and 3/4" socket on the crank pulley. Id recommend putting about a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder through the spark plug holes before trying to turn it over. Try CW then CCW a bit and work it back and forth. Sometimes they stick especially after sitting a while.

Just curious, why are ya pulling the engine?
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Old 12-21-2013
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It started knocking and I've tried working it back and forth with no luck so far. So tomorrow I guess I'll try getting the pan off and see what i can come up with.
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Old 12-21-2013
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It turns probably a quarter turn with very solid stops in both directions.
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Old 12-21-2013
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Do you have any reason to believe there's any mechanical issue inside the engine? I just feel like taking off the oil pan is going to be a waste of time and effort... maybe I'm wrong but what do you think you might find when you take it off? And say you find some issue... then what will you do?

In regard to the quarter turn in either direction, you could be feeling the added resistance of the valve springs on the valve train. Have you tried removing the spark plugs to relieve the air pressure?
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Old 12-21-2013
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I don't think you are understanding that the engine has to be rotated to be able to remove the nuts on the flywheel that attaches it to the torque converter. I'm pulling the engine but it won't rotate in order for me to remove them.
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Old 12-21-2013
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the toque converter can be slid out if you remove the trans first when i did my swap thats how it came out cause i forgot the nuts lol removing the trans may give you more options and you may be able to pull the motor with it still bolted to the flex plate and take it off after its out.
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Old 12-22-2013
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I understand the motor has to be rotated to remove the flywheel to torque converter nuts. I just pulled my engine and put it back in three times in the last two months for an engine swap and then a rebuild.

I'm trying to help you avoid doing unnecessary things, but I guess sometimes people want to do stuff and nothings going to stop them not even reason or experience. Suit yourself bud. Let us know how it turns out. Hope it works out for ya.
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Old 12-22-2013
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I just don't get why you kept asking me the reason. I mean its pretty clear the crank is being fouled by something. Removing the oil pan maybe will help me clear the obstruction enough to rotate the engine so I can get to the converter nuts. Not extra work for nothing, unless you know something I don't.
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Old 12-22-2013
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I'm not trying to be a dick, sorry if it seems that way. Just seems like alot of people on here are just waiting to aggravate and mess with you more than help. Sorry if I came off that way.
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Old 12-22-2013
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I guess the consensus is a simple question that hasn't been asked.
If you are taking the engine out, why do you need to remove the pan first, in relation to the second part (TC/Backinbg plate) if the torque converter will come out of the trans while pulling the engine?
To many of us this wouldn't have been a question, as we would have pulled the engine while the TC stayed bolted to the backing plate. And we would have dealt with the tranny fluid being caught by a drain pan.

Sooooo, If your going to pull the engine anyway, was your intent to keep the TC in the tranny? My thought on the 1/4 turn stoppage is a broken connecting rod bumping the block somewhere, or a broken cam (which I have seen).

Keep at it, remember, many here are either less or more experienced than I, So I take all replies with a grain of salt.

Eric
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Old 12-23-2013
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Danny, any luck getting the oil pan out? Eric made some good points about leaving the TC attached... personally I don't know if it can be left attached to the flywheel. I guess it must be possible, because the manual I have says to be careful not to let the TC drop out of the bell housing (after undoing the TC-flywheel nuts and pulling the engines) so you might just try proceeding without undoing the nuts
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Old 12-24-2013
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Yeah id say pull the trans first before trying to wiggle the pan out. It just seems like far less work and bloody knuckles than fighting the pan.
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Old 12-24-2013
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So far I haven't had time to pull it. Am I the only one that has heard that leaving the converter attached can bust the pump in the trans? Just don't want to break anything worse than it is. I did fool around with trying to diagnose it a little more. Appears the #1 rod is broke or damaged, whatever it's in that cylinder.
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Old 12-24-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99rangerproject View Post
So far I haven't had time to pull it. Am I the only one that has heard that leaving the converter attached can bust the pump in the trans? Just don't want to break anything worse than it is. I did fool around with trying to diagnose it a little more. Appears the #1 rod is broke or damaged, whatever it's in that cylinder.
Yes, if the engine is pulled crocked it "may" break the shaft of the tranny or pump. But if it is pulled level and straight, it won't. I have done many (older cars/trucks 70's thru 80's) and always been successful without damaging the pump. If you have a leveling engine puller hoist and support the tranny, it should be easy enough. I "do" commend you on thinking this through and considering all options. If the engine would allow turning, you had the right idea of leaving the TC in the tranny, Buuut, it's not looking like it'll allow that, so hence the "leave the TC on the backing plate".
How did you find out it was the #1 rod? Were you successful in dropping the oil pan?

Keep at it, and let us know how your fairing.

Eric
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Old 12-30-2013
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I finally got a few hours and pulled the engine, and as I suspected the #1 rod was the issue. Appears to have been a bolt failure, or the rod may have broke first. Either way the rod cap was in the pan when I pulled it. I have a few pics when I get time to upload them.
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  #18  
Old 12-30-2013
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To answer the question how I figured is was in the #1 cylinder. I pulled all the plugs, took a length of hose, place one end up to spark plug hole and other end to my ear. Then turned the engine each way and listened, it became pretty apparent which one it was. Lol, no fancy tools needed.
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  #19  
Old 12-30-2013
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Not glad you have an engine to swap/fix, but glad you got the old one out. Are you putting in a different engine? Would prob be cheaper than rebuilding the old one. Good luck!
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Old 01-06-2014
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I'm surprised the conrod was broken. I'd really like to see what the aftermath looks like. If you get some time to upload a few pictures it would be much appreciated.

Also, how did you go about getting the oilpan out with the engine still in the truck? and did you have any issues with the transmission or the torque-converter when you pulled the engine?

Is the crank trashed? I assume the conrod would've smashed into the #1 journal after having the bearing cap come off.

Any info from the P.O. about the maintenance? I'm wondering if the engine was apart before and perhaps the bearing cap bolts were reused or over-torqued.
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