Hi All,

I noticed that my passenger side motor mount has collapsed pretty badly. It was only obvious after attaching the manifold to the Y pipe that the angles just didn't look right.

Reading the haynes manual it says I need to loosen the bolts, lift the engine a few inches and replace them. The drivers side looks easy to get to but the passenger side looks a bit of a nightmare and of course it is my passenger one that is gone. I am planning on just replacing both while I have the chance.

I have borrowed a hoist from a friend and just wanted to check, can I hoist the engine from the exhaust manifolds? I read to put a ratchet from the front of one manifold to the back of the other on both sides and it will make an X then hoist from that point.

I assume lifting the whole engine evenly is the best way to do it and then do both at the same time. I assume I should also loosen the fan shroud since I will be lifting the engine.

Any other hints/tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Scott

 

Hello again.

Watch out that the synchronizer doesn't come in hard contact with the fire wall.
Depends how steep of an angle you have to raise the engine.

Exhaust manifold is as good a place is any.
I would have just put a block of wood underneath the bell housing or oil pan to raise it up.

Use some wood to support the engine anyway, once it's up.
It's unlikely, but in case the engine jacks hydraulics suddenly fail, you don't want your hands in there if that happens.

 

Thanks Jeff, I had read that just using a floor jack is not great because it's hard to balance it right so hence why I borrowed a hoist. I was just worried if I hoisted by the manifolds it wasn't strong enough and damaged the heads. The last thing I'd want to do after my mammoth task to replace them.

Im assuming I can just hoist to take the weight of the engine. Then unbolt from the block then host a little higher to get the mounts out. I'm not sure if it's different ok the 3.0 but the 4.0 the cam sync is hidden deep under the intake manifold so it looks like the intake manifold would hit before the cam sync but I'll keep an eye on both.

 

Well I completed the job today and it really wasn't that tough of a job. I am thankful for only having RWD as I'm sure 4x4 would have complicated the matter. I ended up hoisting from the exhaust manifold but had to remove the upper intake manifold as it was hitting the firewall. I am sure there are people out there who could have done it somehow without that but for me it was hitting the firewall and I decided to remove it than risk damaging it.

The hardest part was lowering it down and getting both the bolt and the guide going through the engine plate. A few attempts pulling on belts to sway the engine and some persuasion with a bar and I nudged them in.

It drives so much smoother now also that there is no jolting as the engine accelerates.

Thanks for the input!

 

If you have not done it yet, you should consider replacing the transmission mount.