Blown head gasket or cracked head
#1
12-01-2005
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Location: Cedar Falls, IA
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Blown head gasket or cracked head
Yeah so my 99 with the 4.0 has 65,000 miles on it, and its is a pristine, babied truck. Well it started runnin like crap today, and I smelled some antifreeze. I only bought it 2 months ago so it still has a warranty from the dealership. Took it in and the mechanic said he found aintifreeze in the #4 cylinder. 
so no my warranty covers a cracked head but not a head gasket. Anyone had this before at this low of mileage? Also how tough would it be for me to put the gasket back on myself? (dealership quoted me 850 JUST FOR ONE SIDE!!)
so no my warranty covers a cracked head but not a head gasket. Anyone had this before at this low of mileage? Also how tough would it be for me to put the gasket back on myself? (dealership quoted me 850 JUST FOR ONE SIDE!!)
#2
12-01-2005
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never heard of that, but head gaskets can be difficult to replace unless youv done it before... you have to take a bunch of stuff off the engine just to be able to get the head off so if youve never built engines or somthing like that i wouldnt do it... thast really expensive... idk what to do about that...
#3
12-01-2005
Alright. If you took it to the dealership and he found antifreeze in #4, he probably just found it on a plug. They wouldn't tear down the engine without your approval first. That would mean you'd have to approve that $850 dollars first so that they get paid when it comes apart in case it is the gasket. If it were the head then they would just change it to warranty and you wouldn't have to worry about money but that's just S.O.P. at all 3 shops I've worked at. It is a bit of work. Not $850 dollars worth in my opinion but if you've never done it before it's not the best choice of engines to start on. They've pretty much got you by the ***** here though how they word things. They know you can take it to a small shop and have a head or head gasket done for half that much but if you have it torn down at another place and it is a head they washed their hands of it and you're further in the hole. So the best bet is to just let them do the one side for you at the dealer. I know you hate hearing it but it's a no-win situation. If you decline to have the job done I'm 99% sure they reserve the right to cancel your powertrain warranty. Damned contracts.
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12-01-2005
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12-01-2005
#7
12-01-2005
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#8
12-01-2005
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Originally Posted by 67cobain94
What tells me this guy joined just to ask this question?
#9
12-01-2005
Originally Posted by rangeon99
Actually I joined a few days ago and this happenned to my truck today, so thanks for the .02 cents dueschbag. Please only comment if you have something relevant to say, not if you are trying to let me know your the coolest guy on earth.
=john=
#10
12-01-2005
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I'm not tryin hate on you. But from what you just told me, it makes me question the reason for your comment of why I joined even more?? But whatever, I am not a grudge holdin man so it as far as I am concerned we are all good in the hood. (plus I am a little pissy with having to deal with all this today, talk to me tommorrow after I have spent the day snowboarding for 2 dollars and I sure I will be much happier)
#11
12-01-2005
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#13
12-02-2005
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On an OHV engine.. Pull the air intake, disconnect the wiring harness, the intake manifold with the injectors and rails.. Accessories, valve covers.. pull the heads.. Go in reverse order to put it back together. Use a good torque wrench when re-assembeling.
Case of beer, a friend or 2 helping.. should be an afternoon project at the longest. Be GLAD its an OHV engine and not an OHC.
Case of beer, a friend or 2 helping.. should be an afternoon project at the longest. Be GLAD its an OHV engine and not an OHC.
#14
12-02-2005
Originally Posted by D.
On an OHV engine.. Pull the air intake, disconnect the wiring harness, the intake manifold with the injectors and rails.. Accessories, valve covers.. pull the heads.. Go in reverse order to put it back together. Use a good torque wrench when re-assembeling.
Case of beer, a friend or 2 helping.. should be an afternoon project at the longest. Be GLAD its an OHV engine and not an OHC.
Case of beer, a friend or 2 helping.. should be an afternoon project at the longest. Be GLAD its an OHV engine and not an OHC.
one thing though...i have to ask, cuz i'm not 100% sure, but doesn't that engine use the "TTY bolts?"
If so, i would highly advise replacing them. They are designed for one use and one use only. Yeah, i've heard of people re-using them in the past, but if you value your engine, i would replace them if that is the case.
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12-02-2005
#16
12-02-2005
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#17
12-02-2005
Originally Posted by D.
On an OHV engine.. Pull the air intake, disconnect the wiring harness, the intake manifold with the injectors and rails.. Accessories, valve covers.. pull the heads.. Go in reverse order to put it back together. Use a good torque wrench when re-assembeling.
Case of beer, a friend or 2 helping.. should be an afternoon project at the longest. Be GLAD its an OHV engine and not an OHC.
Case of beer, a friend or 2 helping.. should be an afternoon project at the longest. Be GLAD its an OHV engine and not an OHC.
#18
12-03-2005
Unregistered User
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Originally Posted by 67cobain94
You forgot about the exhaust which can be the biggest pain when doing it in the driveway.
I'd unbolt the end of the exhaust manifold from the Y-pipe before the 6 bolts on the head. Its easier to weld on a y-pipe ( if it were to break ) then to go tapping on a head or having to hemicoil an exhaust manifold bolt.
#19
12-03-2005
Originally Posted by D.
Naw, the exhaust pipes have enough flex that once the head bolts are pulled, you should be able to use a ' prying tool ' ( IE carefully uses cro bar/screwdriver watching as to not chip/dent, gouge a head surface/block surface ) and slip the old gaskets out.
I'd unbolt the end of the exhaust manifold from the Y-pipe before the 6 bolts on the head. Its easier to weld on a y-pipe ( if it were to break ) then to go tapping on a head or having to hemicoil an exhaust manifold bolt.
I'd unbolt the end of the exhaust manifold from the Y-pipe before the 6 bolts on the head. Its easier to weld on a y-pipe ( if it were to break ) then to go tapping on a head or having to hemicoil an exhaust manifold bolt.
#20
12-04-2005
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I received the most wonderful news on saturday (thanks everyone for your helpful comments) but I bought my ranger only 2 months ago and it came with a "Gold Check Certified Warranty" for free that covered the drive line for 2 months or 2000 miles. Well this problem happened with 1 week and 100 miles left on the warranty. It ended up being a cracked head so the warranty company has to cover it. Now instead of spending 800-1200 getting it fixed, I PAY ONLY 50 DOLLARS!!! for the deductible and get a new head put on. Thanks again
#21
12-04-2005
Originally Posted by rangeon99
I received the most wonderful news on saturday (thanks everyone for your helpful comments) but I bought my ranger only 2 months ago and it came with a "Gold Check Certified Warranty" for free that covered the drive line for 2 months or 2000 miles. Well this problem happened with 1 week and 100 miles left on the warranty. It ended up being a cracked head so the warranty company has to cover it. Now instead of spending 800-1200 getting it fixed, I PAY ONLY 50 DOLLARS!!! for the deductible and get a new head put on. Thanks again
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