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Old 12-29-2006
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e-fan install pics

Just thought I'd post up some thoughts and pics of my e-fan install.

I used a flex-a-lite 398 Syclone fan that flows 2500cfm and draws 17 amps max. Link to flex-a-lite page / info This fan was left over from a V8 SS I had and should be PLENTY of fan for this ranger.

And for the controller I used the flex-a-lite VSC controller. VSC controller

I've used this controller on three different vehicles now and have nothing but the highest of praise for it. It will allow you to turn off/on the fan, set the temp with a simple screw / screwdriver, ac interface, and most importantly (IMO) ramp up the fan. This helps in two ways. 1. It's easier on the electrical system because it does'nt place a sudden load on it. 2. It only runs the fan as needed from a percentage standpoint. Meaning that when the controller starts the fan it only runs at 60% speed. If that's not enough air flow to cool the fluid/probe then the controler smoothly ramps up the speed. On both my lightning and my SS the only time I've ever heard it at 100% speed is when I either manually turned it on or just after a 1/4 mile run at the drag strip.

In the pics below you can see where I noted a few things.
One thing I will watch is the belt tensioner position. All the local autoparts store had was a 85" gatorback. I think it needs a 84" to get back to stock location.. I'm not too sure how much larger it'll grow in the summer and over time?

Regards, Rich







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Old 12-29-2006
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nice pics!
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Old 12-29-2006
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The old addage of "pictures are worth a thousand words" still holds true I think.

Rich
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Old 12-30-2006
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I spent a few hours this afternoon tuning the e-fan kick on points. Something to note!! The factory guage on the dash doesn't show a 1 to 1 temp change! It shows EXACTLY the same temp / position even though I let the motor go from 185F to 215F (measuring with my autotap).

I did a good 45 minute driving loop with the fan set to come on at 205F (autotap reading). It was 46 degrees outside and even in heavy stop and go traffic it does'nt seem to get above 200F at the most. I had to sit in the driveway at an idle for 7 minutes after that drive for it to kick on. It runs for about 1 minute and drops the temps to 199-198 everytime.

I also measured tranny temps during all this. Supprisingly there is very little -to- no air pulled accross the cooler when the truck is sitting still. I made a little "L" shaped cover out of cardboard and placed it over the cooler such that the e-fan would pull some air. That did the trick instantly! The temps dropped about 15 degrees within minutes. Don't think I'll do this though because I'm never sitting around at idle. However you guys who do that.. or go low speed rock crawling just might entertain the idea.

Summertime I'm sure will bring a different temp study.... just have to wait 6 more months for that.

Rich
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Old 12-30-2006
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sounds good. nice pics too!

that's yet another project i have for my truck... i've got the efan and controller and all... just haven't taken the time to install it.
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Old 12-30-2006
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To do it properly you'll want to take the rad out.

I did the fan and crank pulley at the same time & I'm maticulous in my details w/pics and all. I'd guess that just a fan install alone including making a bracket like I did.. took me about 6-7 hrs in all. And like everthing else in life.. I could propbably do it again in about 1/2 the time.

Rich
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Old 12-30-2006
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Cool.
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Old 12-30-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
Something to note!! The factory guage on the dash doesn't show a 1 to 1 temp change! It shows EXACTLY the same temp / position even though I let the motor go from 185F to 215F (measuring with my autotap).
A 2006 Ranger has the Fail-Safe Cooling feature to allow a safe limp mode for a limited distance in the event of coolant loss. When the engine temperature exceeds a threshold value, an alternate PCM strategy is invoked to use a reduced cylinder count (usually 1/2 of the total number) in a controlled rotation. There will also be significant changes in the A/F ratio and ignition timing to help limit engine temperature and to prevent catalytic converter overheating.

The temp gauge on a Ford with FSC is not controlled exclusively by the sending unit. In the case of a 2004+ Ranger, the coolant temp sensor is read by the cluster microprocessor which also uses input from the PCM to control the gauge indirectly. As noted, the gauge tends to stay rock steady across the normal operating temperature range but will quickly jump to fullscale (and illuminate the FSC LED) when the FSC threshold value is exceeded.
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Old 12-30-2006
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THANK YOU SIR! I didn't know any of that info at all

I highly doubt I'll ever run it that hot because I'm beyond **** about changing fluids and keeping in tune with my machines.

Is there a *simple* way to make the stock guage read actual?

Rich
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Old 12-30-2006
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I wouldn't know how, Rich, and I doubt that it would be simple. The 2004+ cluster has its own internal microprocessor and programming to control the gauges.

I'm sure that you could bypass the stock setup and add an aftermarket gauge with a dedicated sender, though.
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Old 12-30-2006
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The way I monitor Temps & voltage is through the OBD II port with a scangauge II.

Rick
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Old 12-30-2006
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i monitor my voltage through my radar detector lol...

very nice install pics, i really miss my fan but i just didnt really want to reinstall it at the time... now i do lol...
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Old 12-30-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
I also measured tranny temps during all this. Supprisingly there is very little -to- no air pulled accross the cooler when the truck is sitting still. I made a little "L" shaped cover out of cardboard and placed it over the cooler such that the e-fan would pull some air. That did the trick instantly! The temps dropped about 15 degrees within minutes.
I'd like to see pics of what you did to help the tranny cooler. The tranny overheating is why I had to take off my e-fan.
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Old 12-31-2006
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I don't have a pic. But my cooler is sitting about 3" in front of the condenser. When the fan is on there is no percievable air flow accross it but there is plenty accross the condenser. I just made a "L" shaped piece of cardboard and put it straight down over it. Covering the top and the drivers side of the cooler. Doing that draws enough air through it to feel with your hand and cools the fluid as measured by the computer.

I will say this though... The mechanical fan at idle and low speed isn' going to draw any more air accross it either. So I'm leaving it alone. *If* you did extended idling or low speed operation where no air movement was present.. I'd think you could take a piece of plastic or aluminum and cover it. Be carefull though! If you do that your now trapping hot air in that space and it will *require* a fan to be pulling air accross it.

IMO a better solution would be to wire in a small 4.5" fan on the back side of the cooler. Us lightning guys do that all the time on our intercoolers.

Rich
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Old 12-31-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
I don't have a pic. But my cooler is sitting about 3" in front of the condenser. When the fan is on there is no percievable air flow accross it but there is plenty accross the condenser. I just made a "L" shaped piece of cardboard and put it straight down over it. Covering the top and the drivers side of the cooler. Doing that draws enough air through it to feel with your hand and cools the fluid as measured by the computer.

I will say this though... The mechanical fan at idle and low speed isn' going to draw any more air accross it either. So I'm leaving it alone. *If* you did extended idling or low speed operation where no air movement was present.. I'd think you could take a piece of plastic or aluminum and cover it. Be carefull though! If you do that your now trapping hot air in that space and it will *require* a fan to be pulling air accross it.

IMO a better solution would be to wire in a small 4.5" fan on the back side of the cooler. Us lightning guys do that all the time on our intercoolers.

Rich
Glad you're having luck with it. I didn't try the "chute" idea, but I do have a 7in fan on the back side of the aux cooler. That SERIOUSLY helped, but still wasn't enough to keep the tranny under about 210F when pulling any weight in the summer.

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Old 12-31-2006
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heres my e-fan pic. i did it at the same time as the pullies so i didn't have to take out the radiator. i think i'm gonna get one of those scanguages to fine tune the fan on off points and to be able to monitor my engine better.
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Old 01-01-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tekrsq
....I do have a 7in fan on the back side of the aux cooler. That SERIOUSLY helped, but still wasn't enough to keep the tranny under about 210F when pulling any weight in the summer.
I'm very much glad you posted that little tid-bit of info! I was hoping to tow our 18.5 ft bayliner to Tenn next summer. Looks like I need to do some local testing and possibly a small e-fan install first.

Rich
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Old 01-01-2007
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Good luck to you.

I LOVED the efan except that I could not keep the tranny cool with any weight either in the truck or pulling it. Even just tooling around it would run 200F+ in the summer. I put the stock mechanical fan back on, and the temps immediately dropped back down to 170-180, and hasn't gotten over 200 pulling 3500lbs 400 miles.
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