Engine no spark
 

I have a 1994 ranger put another motor in it now I have no spark. When I put motor in I somehow blow the pcm fuse inside and outside truck replaced them and got another pcm because I was told I might of hurt the pcm but still doing same thing. Replace cam sensor and cranke sensor and coil pack still no spark. Check all growns and checked for pinched wires still nothing. Help

Welcome to the forum

Coil Pack has 4 wires
Red wire should have 12volts(battery voltage) when key is turned ON(RUN)
Test for that, its 12volts comes directly from ignition switch under steering column

If no 12volts then turn key off and back on a few times and LISTEN for the fuel pump in the gas tank to run, it will only run for 2 second, and it isn't quiet, turn key off and on as many times as you want to find out if you hear it or don't

If you don't hear it then open engine fuse box and check 60amp Ignition Fuse, also find the EEC(PCM) relay, that relay should click each time key is turn on and off, this relay passes power to Computer(PCM) and spark system and fuel system.
You probably replaced the EEC(PCM) fuse, this relay passes that fuse power out to the truck

Spark on the 1994 4.0l is controlled by the EDIS-6 module, not the computer.
EDIS module looks like this: http://www.mkosonen.com/edis6module.jpg

On my 1994 this module is located on driver side of Rad support but on the FRONT side of it, can be seen by looking up under the bumper.

Crank sensor connects to this module and also the coil pack, it runs the spark

Pin wiring is here: Ford EDIS technical information

EDIS-6
make sure it has 12volts and a ground, 12volts comes from EEC Relay

Never heard of a short blowing out an EDIS module, they are often damaged in front end collisions, but it is an electronic part so could be damaged by a short

coil has power and fuel pump kicks off and on. Sometimes when cracking motor over when I let go of key motor kicks back a little and it sparks once and pop out the exhaust

If possible check for the 12volts at coil WHILE key is in START(starter motor cranking engine)

On most ignition switches RUN and START have different power OUT paths.
When key is turned to START, power is cut to most systems except engine systems, so battery has full cranking AMPs available.
Then when key is back at RUN power is restored
Coil should have 12volts in BOTH positions, RUN and START
If it only has power in RUN then no spark while cranking, and then when you let key off START coil gets the 12volt back and sparks, but just once or twice, so pop would occur

This was a common issue back when there were single coils and a ballast wire or resistor was used, engine would start and then die as soon as key moved to RUN(coil power cut), or engine wouldn't start(no coil power in START) and then when key moved back to RUN spark would come back and you would get a backfire or pop

Double check coil pack firing order
3 4
2 6
1 5
Front

1 2 3 side is easy
5 6 4 side gets mis-wired

I did most of the stuff you told me to do and then some and I still don't have any spark. I was told that the cam sensor was bad so I replaced it and still no spark I'm about ready to give up

Coil pack has 12volts, while cranking?

EDIS-6 module has 12volts, while cranking?

Pull out 1 spark plug after cranking and see if it is WET with fuel, should be if Crank sensor and EDIS-6 is working

And just to confirm, you have a 1994 4.0l V6 Ranger

In 1995 the PCM runs the spark, no EDIS-6, so different setup, 1995 was first year of the newer EEC-V computer(PCM)

PCM power fuses are, #4 and #13, engine fuse box

Also coil fuse, #19, cab fuse box

Diode needs to be working, or PCM Relay won't close

CEL(check engine light) needs to come on, that tells you the PCM is getting power
Fuse #34 in cab fuse box needs to be good for CEL to come on

Only other part that can stop spark is the CKP(Crank Position) sensor.
CKP sensor wires run directly to the PCM in 1995, no middle man.
If there is no CKP Pulse then there will be no spark

But..............why did the fuses blow?
Something missing here

When I put motor in truck the cam sensor was broke and shorted out and blown fuses

That should only blow Fuse #13 , and should not have effected the diode unless PCM Relay melted and shorted to its internal coil, which is fuse #19 in cab fuse box, it also the coils fuse

Does the CEL come on when you turn on the key?

There is no 34 fuse it's an open space I can't find fuse for cel. And no the check engine light doesn't come on when I turn key on Just check gauges stays on. When I crank motor over and I let go of key to shut off motor kicks back a little and it fires one time out the exhaust pipe sometimes

In 1995 you are getting the "back fire" from Ground being lifted from a coil in the coil pack when you stop cranking the engine, normal, this would mean coil is getting 12volts

Check fuse 11 in cab fuse box, that was used in 1996 models for CEL power.
CEL bulb gets power when key is on, PCM must Ground the bulb for it to come on, PCM grounds it as soon as it powers up.
Check Gauge light could mean dash is not getting power, do the gauges move when key is turned on, needles should move a bit?

Best guess is that the PCM is not coming on with the key, which is why you have no spark

CEL on tells you PCM is powering up, no CEL could mean PCM is off

PCM also turns on the Fuel pump for 2 seconds when it powers up
Turn key on and listen for the HUMMM from the gas tank, it is not quiet, you can hear it in the cab if you listen for it
Turn key on and off as many times as you want, won't hurt anything
If you don't hear it then PCM is not powering up

PCM uses a 104 pin connector, since you changed PCMs maybe connector didn't get back on tight?
In any case if you don't hear the fuel pump then UNHOOK BATTERY!!!, pull off PCM connector, hook battery back up and test for 12volts at Pins 55(yellow), 71(red), 97(red)
55 is a yellow wire, will have power key on or OFF
71 and 97, both Red wires, will have power only when key is on, power is from PCM relay

Pin numbering here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...020-jpg.55316/

Actually first test for 12volts on the Red wire at the Cam Sensor, that wire is spliced to the 2 red wires powering the PCM, pins 71 and 97
If no power there then problem could be the PCM relay itself or the splices

55-
 

here are the engine diagrams for 1995 3.0l it will be the same as 4.0l wiring wise

Pages 1 and 4 have the PCM wiring numbers

Pin 1 is a Ground for the CEL(MIL) PCM grounds pin 1 when it is booting up, and CEL bulb gets 12v with key on from fuse 34, you can try fuse 11 Ford used that in 1996, so late 1995 may use fuse 11 to power CEL
If CEL is not coming on with Key on then computer is not powering up, so no spark
And you meant 71 has power, 72 was typo?

I have power at 71 pin 97 pin when key is on. I have power at 55 all the time. Fuel pump is working. I have power at number 11 fuse. Replaced fuel pump relay and pcm relay and I grounded number 1 pin still no check engine light. And I still have no spark. I checked all wiring again for pinched wires and bad connection. Don't know what to do nexted

Burnt our CEL bulb, or disconnected inside cluster

So the Coil's Red wire has 12volt with key on?

If so then Computer is not Pulsing the Ground wires(other 3) so no spark, meaning computer problem.

Crank(CKP) sensor, behind/next to crank pulley, is what starts the spark pulse in the computer.
CKP sensor is self powered, when crank turns a metal wheel with teeth(tone wheel) turns and as each tooth passes by the CKP sensor it generates an AC Voltage pulse.
This pulse is how the computer times the spark(and fuel injectors), computer does not even know you are trying to start the engine until it see that AC Voltage pulse from CKP sensor, so CKP is THE Big Kahuna of all the sensors, pretty much the only one that can cause a no start.

But they rarely fail, not never, rarely

Should there be power in one of the wires going to the Crank sensor with key on or off

No, CKP generates it's own AC power.

You can test it by putting a volt meter on its two wires and set volt meter to AC Volts
Crank engine, you should see .4 to .9 AC Volts

okay thank you for your help so far I will try that tomorrow. Thanks again

The cam sensor only has power with key on right. And it gets its power from 71 or 97 right

Yes, in 1995 Ford used Hall Effect Sensor for Cam, 3 wires, one being 12volts and another a ground.
Ford switched to VR cam sensors, 2 wire, same as CKP sensors, in 1999 on Rangers

No, it gets its 12v from PCM relay same as pin 71 and pin 97 on the PCM do
PCM fuse 13 in engine bay powers those devices, also fuel injectors, fuel pump relay, IAC Valve, EGR, EVAP, O2 sensor heaters, loads of stuff

I have power everywhere that I am supposed to. Do you think that it is the crank sensor